[xgates]

Here's the situation that's racking my brain.

Passenger window started intermittently working then eventually stopped all together. Before complete failure it wouldn't matter which switch was used, drivers side or passenger, that caused the sporadic working. Tore it apart, tested everything with a DMM and concluded the motor was fried. Purchased a OEM window regulator with motor. Tore everything apart and tested everything again. Power all the way down the line at 11.6V to the plug that attaches to the motor. Motor powers Up/Down connected to battery.

When I connect the two.......nothing from either switch.

I had an extra connection wire so cut the plug of, checked the ends with a DMM to make sure I was getting power however when I touch the connections on the motor...nothing. The motor's good, there is power all the way to the connection plug.

What am I missing? Does the window motor need a minimum voltage? Is the switch bad? The connection known to fail?

Thank you in advance

 

[fleetw00d]

Bent pin in the connector?

 

[scheaferwa]

You seem to have too much resistance in the wires, switches, fuses, etc. between the battery and the connector that plugs into the motor connector. When no current flows, i.e. when the motor is not connected, the voltage close to the motor can be the same 12V that the battery has. But when you connect the load of the motor, some current flows through the motor. The current flow causes a voltage drop wherever the resistance is, and then there is little voltage at the motor, not enough for it to turn. So you are looking for a switch or wire that has too much resistance. In summary, 12V when the motor is not connected, then less than 12V (0V) when the motor is connected, says that resistance is stopping current flow and dropping the voltage before it gets to the motor connector. Damaged wire or switch are the suspects.