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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I need your expert opinions!

My driver's side window won't budge anymore when I toggle the switch. It all started when I forgot to roll up my driver's side window and it rained overnight so my window was stuck all the way inside the door.

Then during the weekend, I forgot to close my driver's side door completely shut and my battery died. While jump starting the car and turning on the E, the driver's side window suddenly rolled all the way up. As of now, the driver's side window is up and it still won't budge when I toggle the switch. The passenger's side window works fine.

I initially thought that it was either the switch or the power regulator but since the window was able to roll up after jump starting the car, I've singled it out to the switch.

But, I'm not quite sure and before I order a new switch, I wanted to see what everyone had to say. Anything would help, as I'm tired or having to open my door every time I go through the gates to hand the guards my ID card. :?:?:?

I should mention that my E is an '04, EX model. Thanks in advance!
 

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I have recently installed a new window regulator and motor so I have a pretty good idea on how all the pieces and parts on this system are set up.

If you want to see some images of the inside of the door check out: http://byanwong.com/?tag=side

This site has the door removal and install pictures for a motor pretty well laid out.

I would say from your story that it is the switch. The motor is pretty well sealed and is shielded from rain because of its location. On the other hand, any water that dripped down the interior side of the door probably drained right into the switch.

People who report a motor problem usually hear a loud snap or clunk (I did). The motor is pretty aggressive and tears something up when it dies (the cable housing for instance). If you look at the pictures of a healthy motor and take a look at yours you can confirm it, but I'm thinking you are probably right that it is the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks whites7. Great link by the way. I'll be ordering the switch this week and we'll see how it goes.
 

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@1nf4m0u5 - any update on how this went? Did it fix your problem? I'm experiencing something similar... where did you get your switch from?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Sorry for the lack of updates. The part that I ordered was delayed...I ordered it in September. It finally came in this week and I had time to install it this morning.The result? No luck. My driver's side window still won't budge. It's just the driver's side window that isn't moving. The passenger side still works, as well as the window lock.


So you guys think a new window regulator is the fix?

I forgot to mention this in the initial post but I noticed that the LED in the 'Cruise Control' switch isn't lighting up anymore either.
 

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It pays to test components before ordering replacements. Pull the door garnish and see if there's power going to the regulator motor connector when you activate the switch. If no, trace wiring for the failure. If yes, then the motor is suspect. (I'd still try applying 12V to the motor before replacing it, just to be sure.)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah you're right. I should test the rest of the components before I order a new part. I'll try and troubleshoot this weekend. I'm tired of opening my door to hand the guards my ID card.
 

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Spontaneous operation sure sounds like a short or a bad PWCU.

But test for quality of continuity through the BLK and GRN/BLK switch connector wires to ground (through connection G501). G501 is above the drivers left foot on the left side.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Spontaneous operation sure sounds like a short or a bad PWCU.

But test for quality of continuity through the BLK and GRN/BLK switch connector wires to ground (through connection G501). G501 is above the drivers left foot on the left side.
Sorry Psschmied, but you lost me at "BLK and GRN/BLK swtich" lol. I haven't been able to test anything out after having replaced the window switch but how do I test for continuity on the above mentioned wires?
 

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Sorry Psschmied, but you lost me at "BLK and GRN/BLK swtich" lol. I haven't been able to test anything out after having replaced the window switch but how do I test for continuity on the above mentioned wires?
Sorry for the jargon. I'm used to talking to techs, not regular folks.

Testing for continuity

1. If you don't have an ohmmeter, buy one (Harbor Freight ~$5).
2. Switch the meter to the lowest ohms scale and turn it on. Connect the two test leads to the meter, and touch the metal probes at the ends of the test leads to each other. If the meter is working it should read "0".

3. Turn off the vehicle lights and ignition. Remove the key.

3. At the window switch, unplug the connector. Identify the black wire, the green wire with black stripe, and the connector contact to which each wire connects. Those are the switch connector wires to be tested.

4. Above the underdash access panel, on the far left bulkhead, the bolt with 6-7 wires is G501, a ground connection. Connect either probe of the meter to the connector contact to which one of the wires is attached. Connect the other probe of the meter to G501.

a. If the wire has good continuity, the meter should read "0". Repeat for the the second wire.

b. If the wire has bad continuity, the meter will measure either no number or one bigger than "0". Loosen the bolt at G501 by 1/8 turn and re-tighten it, then repeat step 4.

The PWCU is an electronic module (Power Window Control Unit)
 

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I think my driver's side window regulator is out, as well.

I'm not at all car fixing guy, so I can't be so sure, however, I knew it was coming since my window starting acting weird a few times. (like I push down, then it will go down a bit, then go back right back up)

Ever since it do that a few times, I got afraid it won't come back up if I roll all the way down, I keep the window up.

My passenger side window works just fine with the switch from my driver's side.

If I ask dealer to do this, how much it will cost?

The link it was posted earlier on this post says $300-400, is it true?
 

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sounds like what im dealing with , but mine keeps coming on and working for weeks , so Im hesitant in replacing anything until it fails completly.
Pwr reg sounds like the main culprit.
 

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In April the regulator for my driver window malfunctioned, the window stayed in the down position and wouldn't go up. $ 325 to fix it, plus the hassle of dealing with it. Then in June (still 2012), the passenger window went down and wouldn't go back up. So another $ 325!
From what I have heard, this is a known issue, beware that this can happen.
I have seen that others have gone the DIY route, but I am just bummed about having this happen twice in less than 3 months. I live in AZ>107 degrees today, windows down is awful.
 

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same issue here.

i cant get power to the motor on the passenger side. the original motor was broken so i replaced it about 30 minute project got the seven bolts in for regulator and motor and nothing? i tested the five wires coming from the harnes. 12 volts to all when testing with switches so ill assum wires are not damaged, and switches are ok. im going down now to test the ground unit per previous comment, but if thats not the issue what might it be?

any suggestions would be great as i was hoping to leave monday for a camping road trip in the E.

Bill
 
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