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I drove a salvaged Tacoma for 5 years on a daily basis. The salvage 'brand' is nothing more than a financial decision by the insurance company. If you can make it operable for the right price it works. Just remember selling it will be tough. Did I mention I work in insurance?
 

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Could be they never rotated and just bought two. One thing I wold do is check the alignment. But it doesn't matter, you should be able to pull the veh report and check the damage done. But the alignment check is what I would do if it were my kids. Screw the frame, what if a ball joint was damaged? Just have it checked out at a shop that can be trusted.

The rear bumper that is damaged is just a cover. No biggee.
 

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If the body is not aligned with the frame to a degree it is unnoticeable, it would pass my test. If it is bad enough to notice from below, there may be an issue. But this car does not look to bad. keep in mind I cannot see anything mechanical.

The bondo is no issue. He changed the front fender. The doors are fine as displayed. There may be some distortion in the paint but this is no collectors item so it doesn't matter.

What is the price tag on it?

Also, was the accident described to you?
 

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Two things:

Run the Carfax (cheap)

Ask if you can have alignment checked. If he balks, you walk. Have the rear checked as well.

This is peace of mind for $100

If it was a side swipe, then you should be in good shape. The Carfax should have a description of the accident.

**One thing bothers me. If the Ins Co uses a method of 75% damage, Let's say the value was 10K. Where is the 7500 of damage at? Def have the alignment checked. If it ran for 20k miles after the accident that is where the pain would be. However, every adjuster and customer is different. I have seen them totaled when they should not and visa versa.
 

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If he is honest that is good news. As a good American, I find it hard to trust anyone selling me a car. The more trustworthy they seem the more I doubt them. I am a strong believer in empirical evidence.
 

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I seriously doubt there was any real collision on the rear. It looks like it was torn. There is a cover over the actual bumper and that is what you are looking at. If the bumper inside is sesriously dented, then dig deeper. Pull the spare tire out of the inside and look for crumpled metal there.

But I doubt it is much to worry about. You can see a lighter shade around the area which indicates to me a tear. My girlfriend backed into my Jeep bumper and did the same thing to my car.
 

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Ps

"Any thoughts on all of that? The pictures I posted don't seem to jive with my vision of a front impact and I guess the sideswipe was the embankment - or perhaps the embankment was hit following the sideswipe. Carfax doesn't mention sideswipe. And I guess the front wheel area would qualify as "front impact".

It would qualify as front impact, but the alignment check will show any real damage to that area. It either fits or it doesn't. Regardless, the front area is easy for anyone to observe. Just have the alignment shop look at it.

Go back to your book and use the 'person to person' pricing, not retail. If you are using the retail amount as your starting point you have already lost on this car. The money saved is the only advantage to buying salvaged. The discount will be deep as it cannot ever be sold to a dealer. Nor will it's brand ever be reversed.
 

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Rick is right. They tried to total my Bronco on a $800 claim. Anything over 7 years old should be questioned before placing comp and coll on it. Remember to use your deductible in your math. Many adjusters use kbb.com to reason with insureds.
 

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The auction cost was very likely 20% of the value that day. But there is no way to tell. Regardless, this guy is not new to this. Black is a very unforgiving color and it looks like he dd good body work. Not a newby to cars. With that said, what is he asking for it?
 

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Great eye! Grease pencil often equals salvage yard...which is not a bad thing really. But I think the guy is qualified or at least more so than most. It may be a stretch to say the repairs are "sub-par", however we do not know for sure. Wouldn't damage to the uni body be evident in wrinkling in the metal somewhere? If the car drives straight wouldn't that be the important thing?
 
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