Here's the process, broken down in sections, to acheive a 2.5" lift as shown:
Finshed Project running BFG A/T KO size LT225/75/16.
Section 1, Parts and Tools
Parts:
4ea - 1.25" Front Spacers, Urethane,
2ea - 1.5" Rear Spacers, 6061-T6 Aluminum, Custom
10ea - 10mm x 1.5 x 80mm grade 12.9 Studs, Custom
10ea - 10mm x 1.5 Nylok Nuts
2ea - Rear Upper Arms, Adjustable, +6/-4 degrees, Specialty Products
2ea - Front Pinch Bolts, Service Reduced Shank, OE, Honda P/N 90188-S6M-Z01, Majestic P/N 589470
10ea - 10mm or 7/16 Flat Washer, >.05" Thickness
Lithium Grease, Marine Grade
Tools:
Floor Jack
Bottle Jack
3 Jack Stands
1/2" Breaker Bar
3/8" Ratchet
1/4" Ratchet
Arbor Press with Rotating Stage
10mm & 12mm 1/4" sockets
12" 1/4" Extension
12mm, 14mm, 17mm 3/8" Sockets
14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm 1/2" Deep Sockets
XXL Screw driver, Flat Head
Strut Spring Compressor
3lb Sledge
Needle nose pliars
17mm box wrench
14mm box wrench
6mm Allen wrench
P.S. I'll edit this list as I remember things.
Section 2, Front Lift
1) Support car on Jack Stands. Remove wheels.
2) Disconnect brake line and ABS (if equipped) brackets from strut.
3) Disconnect Steering Tie Rod End. Remove the cotter pin and 12mm nut. Use a 3lb sledge to "coax" the rod end out of its tapered seat on the steering arm.
Note: This is a good time to evaluate the condition of your tie rod ends and replace them as necessary since you'll be realigning your car when all of this is over. The boots on mine were cracked so I swapped them out for new. They are ~$30ea at Majestic.
4)Remove the 2 pinch bolts and flange nuts mating the strut to the knuckle. I used a 1/2" Breaker with a 19mm socket and a 1/2 Ratchet with a 22mm socket.
5) Remove the 3 10mm flange nuts holding the top plate of the strut to the body. These are accessed through the engine compartment. Pull the strut out.

Finshed Project running BFG A/T KO size LT225/75/16.

Section 1, Parts and Tools
Parts:
4ea - 1.25" Front Spacers, Urethane,
2ea - 1.5" Rear Spacers, 6061-T6 Aluminum, Custom
10ea - 10mm x 1.5 x 80mm grade 12.9 Studs, Custom
10ea - 10mm x 1.5 Nylok Nuts
2ea - Rear Upper Arms, Adjustable, +6/-4 degrees, Specialty Products
2ea - Front Pinch Bolts, Service Reduced Shank, OE, Honda P/N 90188-S6M-Z01, Majestic P/N 589470
10ea - 10mm or 7/16 Flat Washer, >.05" Thickness
Lithium Grease, Marine Grade
Tools:
Floor Jack
Bottle Jack
3 Jack Stands
1/2" Breaker Bar
3/8" Ratchet
1/4" Ratchet
Arbor Press with Rotating Stage
10mm & 12mm 1/4" sockets
12" 1/4" Extension
12mm, 14mm, 17mm 3/8" Sockets
14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm 1/2" Deep Sockets
XXL Screw driver, Flat Head
Strut Spring Compressor
3lb Sledge
Needle nose pliars
17mm box wrench
14mm box wrench
6mm Allen wrench
P.S. I'll edit this list as I remember things.
Section 2, Front Lift
1) Support car on Jack Stands. Remove wheels.
2) Disconnect brake line and ABS (if equipped) brackets from strut.

3) Disconnect Steering Tie Rod End. Remove the cotter pin and 12mm nut. Use a 3lb sledge to "coax" the rod end out of its tapered seat on the steering arm.

Note: This is a good time to evaluate the condition of your tie rod ends and replace them as necessary since you'll be realigning your car when all of this is over. The boots on mine were cracked so I swapped them out for new. They are ~$30ea at Majestic.
4)Remove the 2 pinch bolts and flange nuts mating the strut to the knuckle. I used a 1/2" Breaker with a 19mm socket and a 1/2 Ratchet with a 22mm socket.

5) Remove the 3 10mm flange nuts holding the top plate of the strut to the body. These are accessed through the engine compartment. Pull the strut out.
