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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking to purtchase a set of headlights also as I installed a set of projector HIDs in mine and it is not very good for the hilly ares that I live in or if someone in the local area wants HIDs I will trade headlights plus the cost of the kit with Ballasts ane all the wiring. $120.
 

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can you post pics of your current retro-fit?
 

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Why don't you just reverse the conversion process and go back to stock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Why I dont like them is because the cutoff is so abrupt and its very hilly here and if I am in low beam with someone coming I can barely see. If no one wants to buy them I will set it back to normal and use the other HID set that I already have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Still looking for a set for spares. Bump.
 

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I am looking to purtchase a set of headlights also as I installed a set of projector HIDs in mine and it is not very good for the hilly ares that I live in or if someone in the local area wants HIDs I will trade headlights plus the cost of the kit with Ballasts ane all the wiring. $120.
Are you really saying don't retrofit HID"S on the Element because they don't work so good? But your hoping someone will buy your mistake anyway?
 

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Are you really saying don't retrofit HID"S on the Element because they don't work so good? But your hoping someone will buy your mistake anyway?
I dont think that he is saying that they are bad, he is just saying they are just not a right fit for him since he is in a Hilly area. I had that same problem with my car when I put HID's In and I went to the mountain I had a hard time. On the streets they are amazing though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I dont think that he is saying that they are bad, he is just saying they are just not a right fit for him since he is in a Hilly area. I had that same problem with my car when I put HID's In and I went to the mountain I had a hard time. On the streets they are amazing though.
That is exactly right. I did raise the level just a little higher and so far only had one person flash their highs at me and it is better but I just want another set for regular H4s On level ground they work great but when the road is like a block wall or air every few hundred feet it doesnt work that great. The road I drive every day is the steepest state hi way in the US so I have been told. It looses 3 thousand feet in a few miles. Lots of vehicles clobber the guard rails or go over the sides here but that is another California driving story.:-D
 

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That is exactly right. I did raise the level just a little higher and so far only had one person flash their highs at me and it is better but I just want another set for regular H4s On level ground they work great but when the road is like a block wall or air every few hundred feet it doesnt work that great. The road I drive every day is the steepest state hi way in the US so I have been told. It looses 3 thousand feet in a few miles. Lots of vehicles clobber the guard rails or go over the sides here but that is another California driving story.:-D
I hear what you guys are saying but the question still is, when you have a factory system would you still have this problem with hills? Just about everything is hilly where I live.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No as the cutoff on the factory setup is gradule and the replacement HIDs are the same way but the pattern is not as good but works better then the projector for the hilly area. The projector headlights are more even from side to side but looking ahead the cutoff is pretty abrupt and on flat ground its not really a problem and you will not over run the lights but in hilly areas it will cause a problem on the low beams. High works great and you can see that darn sign a quarter mile away.:-D
 

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Aim down the headlights with HIDs a bit. Problem solved. If you really want the H4s, you can find a set on eBay for around 180 a pair new. As for the HIDs being too bright for others, well too bad. They're not suppose to stare at your headlights anyway. Driver's manual specifically states to look to the right at night to avoid being blinded.

Find a level lot with a wall, park around 25 ft perpendicular and facing the wall. Measure the distance from ground to your lights' height. Do the same on the wall directly facing your element and mark with painter's tape. Aim your lights to this point, then adjust down to where the trunk of a typical sedan would be. You can also adjust the aim a bit to the right too so the brightest spot of the beam patter is offset slightly. Sharp cutoff be an advantage/less glare. Never heard of anyone complain about cutoff being too sharp. Chances are you just need to re-aim your lights.
 
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