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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking for pictures of this system installed, and Ive seen in a previous thread that a handful of people bought these setups when they were on sale a while back.
Can anyone with this system take some time to post detailed pics of the full setup installed? I am really interested in how it moves through the rear suspension to see what kind of issues there would be if installed on a 4wd Element, but also how high/low the piping hangs compared to stock, pics of the hangers, & how much clearance there is around the muffler/resonators.

I am planning to build my own exhaust, and this setup is actually cheaper than what a couple local shops want to fabricate a system from scratch, giving me the idea that this could be a great "pipe kit" to weld on my own muffler/resonators with minimal modification & have an amazing sounding & performing exhaust for a very reasonable price.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I bit the bullet and bought a setup myself, and FINALLY got the chance to try installing it on my Awd Element.

I think I know why they list it for the 2wd only, lol



The rear axle is RIGHT in the path of the Yonaka catback, so I cant bolt up the tailpipe if I use the stock hangers.

If I omit the hanger above the muffler & let the exhaust sag down a bit I can finally bolt up the tailpipe section, but ONLY when the vehicle is on the ground & the exhaust moves around enough to contact the sub frame. If I jack the car back into the air the axle & sway bar will smash the pipe (& most likely damage the axle) unless I unbolt the sway bar mounts (4 12mm bolts).
That is unacceptable for me.


If I undo ALL of the hangers to lower the front 2 sections and just use the hanger at the tailpipe, the system can be bolted up & doesnt hit the sway bar or the axle, so I am thinking I can get the system to work by modifying the first 3 hangers to lower the exhaust roughly 1.5". I am currently in the process of modifying the hangers, but here are pictures of the Yonaka hangers in relation to the OEM hanger points when the exhaust is bolted up & positioned where it will clear the rear axle & sway bars (when elevated because that is when the clearance is the tightest).





 

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Good luck with the problem solving. Keep us posted.

Now you know why the exhaust shop wanted so much. It's not the materials, but the labor involved to make it fit. I'm in the process of fabbing a header for one of my other cars and have a lot of time into it already with not much to show so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A header is a completely different beast, and if I had a lift I dont think this would have taken quite as long, but crawling in & out from under a car on jack stands does tend to add time. I was also trying to minimize the mods to potentially make it DIY friendly (including documentation time) but the outcome proved otherwise. I think I spent a good 6 hours total on this, but I got it done nonetheless.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Trying to keep this DIY friendly I started by reshaping the stock hangers, which I did with a vise, a propane torch (with MAP gas), and a hollow breaker bar. I used the heat to put the bends where I wanted them, or as close to it as I could. ha ha ha


The first mount, closest to the catalytic converter.


The second mount, near resonator.


The third mount, next to the rear axle.



These were all fairly easy to mod, but the tailpipe section proved to be a bit more involving.

The hanger had to be cut, reshaped, welded, and then reshaped again.
But that was after I had to cut the pipe & re-clock the bends (rotate axially) to gain a little more clearance over the sway bar.

This is the flange of the tailpipe section just below the axle. I cut it, rotated it ~10* or so, then welded it back together. (pay no attention to the ugly welding, lol)


This gave me ALL the clearance I needed, but the hanger was way off now.
Stock form, the black mark is where the mount needed to be.


Cut a section out


Finished rear mount



Completely done and back on the ground, no contact anywhere and it looks great.


The exhaust tip had me a little concerned after rotating the pipe, I was afraid I would have to cut the end and rotate the tip back to where it was, but I discovered that the minor rotation actually complements the rear end because the slash cut is now almost perfect with the curve of the rear bumper and very subtle.


Havent driven it yet, but it sounds surprisingly good while idling & free reving.

In hindsight I would have just cut all the hangers off from the beginning, modified the tail pipe section, then welded the hangers back on where they needed to be. This would have been a lot quicker & easier, but at least we all know now that the modifications required are a little more than an average DIY project, but still a fun weekend project if you enjoy a challenge.
 

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nice job.
and good photos.
glad you could get it around the rear axle.
have you advised Yonaka of your success?
 

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I put one of these exhausts on my crv and it has gotten quite a bit louder over time and now the exhaust is cracking at the welds at the resonator. I wish I had not bought this exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have not reached out to Yonaka about my success, and most likely wont because it sounds like garbage while driving. ha ha ha It has a decent note at idle & revving, but while cruising it drones an ungodly amount. Not a total surprise of course, and it is only temporary. I have a Magnaflow muffler expected to deliver any day now, which will replace the crappy resonator and should greatly tone down this exhaust. I also plan to replace the main muffler with a Spintech XL, but I am hoping I can wait until spring to do so and that the Yonaka+Magnaflow will be tolerable for a few months.


Levi707, that is a pretty standard issue with ALL low grade knockoff exhaust systems, and the reason they are so cheap. Low grade mufflers because the muffler (& resonator) is the largest cost of the system. I bought mine because $200 for 2.5" mandrel bent piping pre-bent for my car was cheaper than raw bends of piping that I would have to fabricate myself. Add the cost of the Yonaka setup plus two new mufflers, and it is STILL cheaper than other off-the-shelf exhaust setups, and this one will sound exactly how I want it.
Sorry to hear you are not happy with yours, sounds like a good time to have those mufflers cut out & better ones put in their place.
 

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installed mine last week and yes it is LOUD at highway speeds. I ordered an Magnaflow 6 inch round by 14 inch muffler to replace the resonator, hope it cuts the droning. the systems was easy to install on took an hour to remove the stock pipes and mount the new ones along with new hangers.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ha ha ha, looks like Robpad beat me to it. The Magnaflow can made a WORLD of difference on this exhaust.

I also need to clarify, the Yonaka exhaust sounded obnoxiously loud INSIDE the Element, specifically between 2400-2800 RPM the exhaust drone sounded like it was coming from within your skull it was so obnoxiously loud. Following my wife around while she drove the Element & the sound from outside actually sounded pretty good & not terribly loud. Still a little too loud for my liking, but a far cry from the typical fart cannon you hear out there. The exhaust also has an intoxicating burble when you let off the gas, but I am not sure if that is a result of the exhaust itself or from my Ktuner reflash and the exhaust is simply amplifying the sound. Either way I cannot get enough of it, ha ha ha.

Yanked the worthless resonator and installed the Magnaflow can, and OMG does this exhaust sound perfect now. Idle & cruising the exhaust is almost as quiet as stock, I seriously cannot hear it over the road noise (I have 245 width tires, so there is a little extra road noise), and there is absolutely ZERO drone now. The exhaust itself can clearly be heard coming from behind the vehicle, no longer does it sound like its resonating out of my skull. lol

Getting on it the exhaust sounds just as mean and sporty as it did before replacing the resonator, but toned down a little more in volume. I have yet to hit any tunnels, but I am very eager to hit the expressway through downtown Seattle, lots of tunnels & I have a feeling I will be grinning ear to ear.

Pictures will follow soon, I just need to upload them. The install of the Magnaflow went even easier than I had expected.
 

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every Magnaflow i ever installed on my own or customers cars droned
horribly on the highway, maybe they have improved in the last
10 years. i always used Borla.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I started by cutting off the resonator right at the welds, essentially creating a gap in the piping smaller than the Magnaflow muffler itself. The cut pipe slipped perfectly inside the ends of the Magnaflow, providing a couple inches of play in both directions. I also cut the hanger off the resonator (after measuring the distance of the hanger to the centerline of the resonator). I made sure to weld the hanger onto the Magnaflow and maintain the distance to centerline so the hanger would still line up.

I reinstalled the two end pieces of piping by bolting them back up under the car, then slipped the magnaflow onto the piping & wiggled it around until it was in the exact position it needed to be. Once set I tack welded the Magnaflow in place and removed the section as a whole, so I could finish the welding on my bench.





I am VERY happy with the finished product here, it finally sounds just as great as it looks.

 

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Discussion Starter #18
every Magnaflow i ever installed on my own or customers cars droned
horribly on the highway, maybe they have improved in the last
10 years. i always used Borla.
Ive never understood why exhaust companies cut such a small corner by using low quality undersized resonators & mufflers, when the result is such an awful drone and needlessly loud exhaust.

I have had nothing but great experiences with Magnaflow mufflers, but I typically build/design my own exhaust setups, and I know what to expect from them. lol
 

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just curious why you bought this system ? the polished parts
do look nice but no ones ever gonna see them. it can't be for
performance as even headers and a full Borla or Akrapovic
system on 500+ hp LT1's, LS3's, and LT4's barely add 20hp.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
just curious why you bought this system ? the polished parts
do look nice but no ones ever gonna see them. it can't be for
performance as even headers and a full Borla or Akrapovic
system on 500+ hp LT1's, LS3's, and LT4's barely add 20hp.
Why this system? I bought this because it was a fraction of the cost of the materials alone to build my own exhaust, and I actually like the clean stainless tip sticking out of the back.

Why upgrade at all? For starters I enjoy a sportier sounding vehicle, and the new tailpipe looks more at home on this rugged looking vehicle than the ridiculous $10 chrome tip Honda thew on it (seriously Honda, WTF?). And then there are the performance aspects, which have been very apparent, but more on that in a minute.

This is not the thread to discuss the pros/cons of performance parts, but if you think vehicles do not benefit from higher performance parts then you are mistaken. Cars are nothing like they were 15+ years ago and you cannot just throw on some parts & expect them to boost performance, and anyone that does is just setting themselves up for disappointment. Modern engines are tightly regulated & restricted by their factory tuning which negates the improvements of anything you bolted on, until you control the tuning that is. Unlock the ECU and you will have removed the cork from the entire system, THEN you will see the real benefits of bolt-ons. Just look at the tuner packages you can buy to unlock power from many bone stock vehicles, including the Ktuner reflash for our very own Honda Element. Their reflash on a stock Element unlocked more power than an untuned Element running full bolt-ons, all numbers confirmed by dyno.

My Element is tuned, which made a very noticeable difference over bone stock, and the new exhaust made another small difference, which could be improved further by adding a little more fuel and timing. However this is also a topic for another thread...

So let us please stay on topic discussing the Yonaka system on a 4wd Element, and how to make it sound amazing. :food004:
 
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