I think impacts rated in the 200-250 ft lbs+ category will be fine for Honda lug nuts.

Although if you’re going to buy a battery impact, it should do more than lug nuts. Consider 2 types - either a lighter, more nimble one in the 3/8” range which would be something you would use to “do most things” faster, or one that is more powerful n the 1/2” range to do things that would have required “more muscle”.

 

If you only need it to do lug nuts a few times a year at home, a corded impact is a better option. No batteries to replace.

https://www.harborfreight.com/85-amp-12-in-impact-wrench-with-rocker-switch-64120.html?event_id=182731?event_id=182732

 

Which cordless tool brands do you already have batteries for?

 

DeWalt

 

Might as well get a big ugga dugga for harder to bust bolts. Milwaukee M18 1600 lb-ft should do it

 

I have a corded impact that I use for loosening lug nuts but I never use it to tighten them.
A) if I have a flat tire I want to change it
B) I have found that lug nuts (over tightened) with an air impact have widely different torque values (even with a wobble stick).

Cordless impacts are impressive and very handy when there is no place to plug in a tool.

 

Anything over 200ft/lbs is going to do the job of removing the lugs, unless they are corroded on. Most tire shops will torque the lugs to 75ft/lb, so 200 should release them.

NEVER use the impact to tighten the lugs. You can use it to run the lugs on (after finger threading them to start), but NEVER use it to tighten them. A torque wrench is required for that.

 

I'd go for the mid torque milwaukee impact. Also, 200ft lbs is super weak, and won't undo stuck bolts. The mid torque is around 600 I think, and you can use it on stuff like cv axle nuts and subframe bolts, etc. And it's pretty stubby and light.

 

I have a Ryobi PCL250 (3/8" 220 ft-lbs) for home use. I already had the Ryobi one + battery for it so it was very inexpensive and turned out way better than I expected when I bought it.. It has always been able to remove lug nuts on my E and my work van and actually gets a lot of use by me and neighbors where the big Milwaukee impacts are overkill. I have them at the farm workshop for when I need BIG. Ya, never never never use the impact to tighten, that's what a torque wrench is for. I have an extendable gorilla wrench in the E for flats on the road. It's way better than either the E wrench or a crossbar Lug tool.

 

My Milwaukee M12 Fuel 3/8 drive cordless impact will remove lug nuts if they are properly torqued.

 

I love this tool. Faster than any hand tool or battery ratchet. More ergonomic, well balanced and lighter than the beefier more powerful impacts.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone!

I should note that I do already have a torque wrench and always use anti seize on all my harware, keep a can of it in the car at all times

oh and being in an apartment building I cant always get access to a power outlet so I pretty much have to go with a cordless

 

Thanks for the replies everyone!

I should note that I do already have a torque wrench and always use anti seize on all my harware, keep a can of it in the car at all times

Anti-seize on lug nuts is a bad thing.
It DOES change the actual torque value applied. The torque wrench could read 80ft/lb and the actual applied torque could be 100ft/lb.
Using anti-seize will put uneven, higher torque in the connection. This can deform wheels, stretch lug bolts, crack the wheel at the connection, or cause the connection to fail altogether. You don't want to ruin good wheels or be racing your tire down the road. The tire will win.

 

By the way should I get at least one Impact socket in the lug nut size or do you all think a regular socket will be fine for my occasional use. I have the Mastercraft regular socket set from Canadian Tire and they have a lifetime replacement warranty

 

It's good to use a proper impact socket. Impacts leave telltale wear in sockets, and chrome sockets are also more brittle, and can crack.

 

Get a set of impact sockets. They are not that expensive and don't break like a regular socket.

 

I despise that anti-sieze crap. Oxygen sensor threads is the only place it should be used. Not wheel studs, or spark plugs.

 

I'm okay with putting lubricant on wheel studs. I've had some snap off due to dry threads galling diring removal, which turns a simple wheel change into a huge inconvenience, really quickly.

 

Old school, retired mechanic here.. If you are only servicing your own car(s), a large impact gun is not needed. A 1/2 or 3/4" breaker bar and appropriate impact socket will do it. Also, if not careful, an impact gun can break off a wheel stud- and that's a whole 'nother project. Also, a basic torque wrench for the final tightening is a real good idea.

 

This is why I said to rent or borrow a strong cordless one, if it's just this one job. For me, I'm getting one because I service all my own vehicles and have a few projects, plus help out others with their vehicles too. Doing everything with hand tools is fine when that's all you have, but this is a huge time saver. Plus, I don't have a shop, everything is done on a gravel driveway.

 

I had a lot of DeWalt cordless tools so I picked up a DeWalt XR 20v. It’s been excellent.

 

This is the DeWalt Impact Driver I currently have. It came as part of a set with a drill I bought. I have not tried to use it yet to remove wheel lug nuts

The DCF787 seems to have a few versions on DeWalts website but they all say 1500 ft lbs of torque but it doesnt say what of if there is any difference in break away torque?

 

Also a friend of mine told me that this would not be good enough to remove wheel lug nuts but he never looked at the model number or look up the specs

 

That's 1500 Inch pounds, not Foot lbs. ~125 ft/lbs, cut that in half for having to use an adapter. That's an impact driver for household use, not an impact wrench for automotive. The one I referenced you earlier has 3x the torque.

 

Ok that makes more sense, I thought there is no way this thing could have 1500 ft lbs of torque, those specs online seemed totally off... so this thing is basically an electric screwdriver

 

I have both a Dewalt smaller 20V impact driver with 3/8" adapter and this:
DEWALT 20V MAX XR Impact Wrench Kit, Brushless, High Torque, Detent Anvil, 1/2-Inch (DCF899P1)

The smaller one is great for misc. jobs on and off the car. It's great for tightening lug nuts before finishing them by hand. The larger one is a beast. In addition to lug nuts, I have removed strut and control arm bolts (even the rusty rear bolts), axle nuts, and other difficult fasteners. Get a 5AH or better battery. I stayed within the Dewalt line, and have both impacts, screw gun, sawzall, and a cool LED work light. Can charge and interchange batteries at will.

 

I have that same dewalt hammer and the drill that came with it. The low gear on the drill died after the warranty and I don't care much for their batteries.
The hammer is ok but light duty. I end up using my air tools a lot instead.

 

The smaller HF impact https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-b...ght.com/20v-brushless-cordless-12-in-3-speed-impact-wrench-tool-only-58637.html has worked fine for me, and I keep it in the car. I have the bigger one too, but don't get it out anymore just for lug nuts, only for suspension work.

 

I have this Ryobi, and it has been great for lug nuts and even took off the axle nuts. I want to second or third the no anti-sieze on the lug nuts. The same amount of torque will put higher axial loads on your wheel studs and they will be more likely to fail.

RYOBI ONE+ 18V Cordless 3-Speed 1/2 in. Impact Wrench (Tool-Only) P261 - The Home Depot

Get your variety of heavy-duty applications done at ease by using this Ryobi Cordless Three Speed Impact Wrench. Features tri-beam LED lights.

www.homedepot.com

 

thank you all, I may try using the red grease/lubricant spray on the lug nuts that my mechanic uses, I cant remember the brand name off hand

 

I STILL recommend NO lube at all. Torque is specified as dry. You risk more damage with lubed connections.

Your choice.

 

Where anti seize really helps -and is ok- is as a thin coat on the back of the rims where the aluminium rims sit on the steel rotor. When I've purchased several vehicles with alloy rims they were really bonded to the rotors there. Just a very thin coat on that surface keeps that from happening. NO lube at all on the studs