I would pay the mechanic to just freaking repair it, because my brother had the same car, and he's still making payments on half of it, and by half of it, I mean only half the car survived the engine fire that occured after it threw a rod. Then we had the engine replaced, then the engine exploded and lit the car on fire a second time. Those things cannot be repaired by a DIY'er, trust me, we tried, The burned valve may seem like no big deal to fix, but then again, neither is installing a new block, even if it's done correctly. Gran Cherokees are junk and best left to be broken by professionals, so that they have to repair it at their cost.

 

I plan on getting it fixed, just want to know what a good price will be and what if any can I do my self. Would buying used parts be better/cheaper than repairing certain parts?



I am not going to do it, I am looking for a mechanic to do it, not a DIYer. I am well aware that it isn't a small fix, I have read up on it quite a bit online. Mine has 150K on it and the engine has worked well up until this point. Don't get me wrong, I have had my fair share of issues with it but most are related to none motor issues, fairly typical of the Chrysler brand.

My list of repairs so far are quite extensive :
a/c Blower motor
Blend doors (for climate control system)
a/c compressor
PCM (twice in 1 week)
water pump
fan clutch
2-3 CV boots (I blame that on the AZ desert)
2 Door locks
1 window regulator
2 taillight housings

 

It's difficult to tell you if I think it's worth putting that much money into. If your over 95,000 miles with it, I would not do it. I have seen people put money into Grand Cherokee V8's with about that on them, only to have it start burning oil, or snap a rod. I also know of people with 140K and 165K on the engine with no trouble at all. So it's up to you.

Dom

 

If you can afford to gamble with the Jeep, then why not go ahead and try to do it yourself. Could be a fun exercise.

 

I would just personally get rid of the cherokee while it's still worth something, and not a smoldering pile of metal and plastic. That's just my take. $2,400 now, $3,000 later, $5,000 after that and so on...

 

I forgot to mention that I plan on selling it immediately after getting it fixed. I am also trying to sell it as is on CL. That person can pay the 3k later, and 5k after that.

 

If you're gonna sell it afterwards anyway....just sell it for a discounted price now and save the hassle.

A head gasket type job runs about $1000 to $1500 for most "typical" cars. Throw in some valve work, or the cost of some replacement heads, and $2000 ain't out of the question. (for your Jeep, or most v6 or v8 cars/suvs)

What is it worth in "normal" running condition? I'd try selling it for that price, minus $1000 for "head work" and see what happens. you could even take $1500 or $2000 off and unload it quickly and the agrivation savings would be a bonus.

If you were up to a DIY, it might be worth trying to repair yourself in order to get top dollar.

JMHO...my advice is free...and ya get get what ya pay for.

 

If you're gonna sell it afterwards anyway....just sell it for a discounted price now and save the hassle.

I completely agree, though it will be a shorter time to sell a completely working car without a bad valve. But then again, all you get more is what you paid to fix it, so... kinda at a crossroads.

 

What about a used head? Pay someone for a side job then sell it.

My advice is worth slightly less that Apguy's

Or just drive it until it catches fire and have your ins co buy it.:lol:

 

I am looking in to picking up a used head. Will I be okay with one from a different Jeep? Or will I want it to be repaired/cleaned in anyway before reinstalling? How much should it run to have the head done the right way?

Six? If so could be a fun project.

It is a V8 if that is the question. Will I need to remove both heads to do it the right way?

 

Six? If so could be a fun project.

 

Sorry, no knowledge of the V8. It would make sense to have both heads checked.

 

I finally got my poor Jeep towed home and will attempt this myself, or with the help of someone else. The mechanic did not do a drip down test so a burnt valve is not confirmed. He said they did some sort of gas test with the coolant and it confirmed a blown head gasket. Either way the head is coming off, and if there is a valve issue, I will address that.

I am uncertain what I need to take off to access the head. A guy at work said the alternator and radiator must come off. I don't remember what else, it was a bit overwhelming. If anyone has any tips for this task, I am all ears.

 

I don't want to be the one to deliver the bad news... but to get to where you need to be - you need to pull the bumper off, pull the radiator off and the condensor of that model had it up there, pull the alternator off the top. Pull the fuel rail off - it wraps around the top of the engine, and then pull the valve covers off, etc... there were a few more electronic components sitting on top, like the solonoid and other things (I forget) that need to come off to get to either head. Chrystler makes stupid engine bays. On my Chevy truck I can sit right on top of the engine, put my feet inside, and work on it all day very comfortably, you could crawl all over the engine bay, and you could pull the whole engine right out if you just removed everything it was attached to, nothing would be in the way.

 

The bumper needs to come off? Dang! I obviously don't know anything about other brands of engine but I do know the entire dash needed to be removed to access some a/c parts and to replace blend doors for the climate control. Gotta love ripping the dash apart to replace a faulty, poorly designed plastic part that costs a few pennies. I am searching Jeep forums and will attempt this once I am a little more prepared. Thanks for more bad news Serj ;-)

 

How much would it cost if you replace the motor vs replacing just the TOP, just saying! I know some GC V8's motor sells for cheap, sounds like a lot easier than messing with something your not familiar with...i know you don't have this experience either but it's a lot less headache if having someone install it for you.

Check this link: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/1168144342.html
Heres another one, there all in AZ, i dont know exactly witch is closer to you.
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/1191658575.html

 

How much would it cost if you replace the motor vs replacing just the TOP, just saying! I know some GC V8's motor sells for cheap, sounds like a lot easier than messing with something your not familiar with...i know you don't have this experience either but it's a lot less headache if having someone install it for you.

Those engines won't match up and I know my limited skills would require me to hire someone. That would cost me probably twice as much as this job.

IMO you need a service manual for this job. And you have a torque wrench, yes?

I do not have a service manual. Nor do I know what it is or what it does. I will look into picking one up. U think i need a torque wrench? You are giving me too much credit to get it apart and back together. ;-)

Start by checking the mechanics findings. Everyone makes mistakes. I've seen false coolant contamination tests and simple fixes blamed as a burnt valve. Buy a screw-in compression tester, remove all spark plugs, go to spinning and find out what is going on in your engine.

Also, perform a leak down test to check condition of the rings. If you do pull a cylinder head, there will be some coolant leaking into the cylinders. Remove this immediately (within two minutes) and lightly oil down the cylinders.

You've probably heard the tale of a valve job blowing the rings out. What's really happening is, ethyl glycol has the ability to harden shiny metal, leading to the rings not seating properly again until the cylinder is rehoned.

Looking forward to your update----;-)

The mechanic told me they did the test 2 or 3 times and it confirmed a blown head gasket. I asked and they did not do a leak down test. I am calling him today to see which head had the issue. The car did trip a code that said a fault occurred in a valve/cylinder (not sure of specifics) as well. I will make sure to ask a few more questions. Think I can rent a compression tester? I think they drained the coolant when they did some tests (reserve reservoir is empty), do I need to get the thing running to do this test?

 

IMO you need a service manual for this job. And you have a torque wrench, yes?

 

Double Check

Start by checking the mechanics findings. Everyone makes mistakes. I've seen false coolant contamination tests and simple fixes blamed as a burnt valve. Buy a screw-in compression tester, remove all spark plugs, go to spinning and find out what is going on in your engine.

Also, perform a leak down test to check condition of the rings. If you do pull a cylinder head, there will be some coolant leaking into the cylinders. Remove this immediately (within two minutes) and lightly oil down the cylinders.

You've probably heard the tale of a valve job blowing the rings out. What's really happening is, ethyl glycol has the ability to harden shiny metal, leading to the rings not seating properly again until the cylinder is rehoned.

Looking forward to your update----;-)

P.S. For the mechanics in the group----a young girl recently told us her mechanic said she needed a new crankshaft for $1200, but had welded it up to get her buy:shock:

 

If you have the 4.7 overhead cam engine, this is for left head from Alldata. By the way it looks like a lot of work!

Removal and Installation-Left
Notes

REMOVAL


Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the left side exhaust manifold.
Drain the engine coolant. Refer to Cooling System.
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the intake manifold.
Remove the cylinder head cover.
Remove the fan shroud and fan blade assembly. Refer to Cooling System.
Remove accessory drive belt.
Remove the power steering pump and set aside.






Fig. 50



Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (Fig. 50).






Fig. 52



Verify the V8 mark on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position (Fig. 52). Rotate the crankshaft one turn if necessary.
Remove the crankshaft damper.
Remove the timing chain cover.






Fig. 51



Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler sprocket using Special Tool 8515 (Fig. 51). NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to removal to aid in installation.
Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on each side of the V8 mark on the camshaft drive gear (Fig. 52).
Remove the left side secondary chain tensioner. Refer to Timing Components.






Fig. 53



Remove the cylinder head access plug (Fig. 53.).
Remove the left side secondary chain guide. Refer to Timing Components.
Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. Severe damage to the valve train can occur. CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to remove the cylinder head without removing these four bolts. NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder block with fourteen bolts.
Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the gasket. CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gasket sealing surface, due to the design of the cylinder head gasket any distorxion to the cylinder head sealing surface may prevent the gasket from properly sealing resulting in leaks.
INSTALLATION

NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down the bolts should be replaced.







Fig. 54

Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale, the bolt should be replaced (Fig. 54).

CAUTION: When cleaning cylinder head and cylinder block surfaces, DO NOT use a metal scraper because the surfaces could be cut or ground. Use only a wooden or plastic scraper.







Fig. 55



Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces (Fig. 55).
Position the new cylinder head gasket on the locating dowels. CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over the locating dowels. NOTE: The four smaller cylinder head mounting bolts require sealant to be added to them before installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with clean engine oil and install the ten M11 bolts.
Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with Mopar Lock and Seal Adhesive then install the bolts. NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an angle torque procedure, however, the bolts are not a torque-to-yield design.






Fig. 56



Tighten the bolts in sequence (Fig. 56) using the following steps and torque values:
Step 1: Tighten bolts 1-10, 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) .
Step 2: Tighten bolts 1-10, 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) . Tighten bolts 11-14, 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) .
Step 3: Tighten bolts 1-10, 90 degrees. Tighten bolts 11-14, 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .
Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on either side of the V8 mark on the gear and position the gear onto the camshaft.
Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
Install the left side secondary chain guide.
Install the cylinder head access plug.
Re-set and Install the left side secondary chain tensioner.
Remove Special Tool 8515.
Install the timing chain cover.
Install the crankshaft damper. Tighten damper bolt 175 Nm (130 Ft. Lbs.) .
Install the power steering pump.
Install the fan blade assembly and fan shroud.
Install the cylinder head cover.
Install the intake manifold.
Refill the cooling system
Raise the vehicle.
Install the exhaust pipe onto the left exhaust manifold.
Lower the vehicle.
Connect the negative cable to the battery.
Start the engine and check for leaks.










© 2009 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved.
Terms of Use

 

Yeah....what he said :lol:



Have you considered selling it? :wink:

 

Here's the right side head. This job is extremely complicated.
Removal and Installation-Right
Notes

REMOVAL


Disconnect battery negative cable.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side exhaust manifold.
Drain the engine coolant. Refer to Cooling System.
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the intake manifold.
Remove the cylinder head cover.
Remove the fan shroud. Refer to Cooling System.
Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
Remove accessory drive belt.
Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (Fig. 50).
Verify the V8 mark on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position (Fig. 52). Rotate the crankshaft one turn if necessary.
Remove the crankshaft damper.
Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to Timing Components.
Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler sprocket using Special Tool 8515 (Fig. 51). NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to removal to aid in installation.
Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on each side of the V8 mark on the camshaft drive gear (Fig. 52).
Remove the right side secondary chain tensioner. Refer to Timing Components.






Fig. 57



Remove the cylinder head access plug (Fig. 57).
Remove the right side secondary chain guide. Refer to Timing Components.
Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. severe damage to the valve train can occur. CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to remove the cylinder head without removing these four bolts. CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft target wheel for any reason. A damaged target wheel can result in a vehicle no start condition. NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder block with fourteen bolts.
Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the gasket. CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gasket sealing surface, do to the design of the cylinder head gasket any distorxion to the cylinder head sealing surface may prevent the gasket from properly sealing resulting in leaks.
INSTALLATION

NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down the bolts should be replaced.

Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale, the bolt should be replaced (Fig. 54).

CAUTION: When cleaning cylinder head and cylinder block surfaces, DO NOT use a metal scraper because the surfaces could be cut or ground. Use only a wooden or plastic scraper.







Fig. 58



Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces (Fig. 58).
Position the new cylinder head gasket on the locating dowels. CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over the locating dowels. NOTE: The four smaller cylinder head mounting bolts require sealant to be added to them before installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with clean engine oil and install the ten M10 bolts.
Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with Mopar Lock and Seal Adhesive then install the bolts. NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an angle torque procedure, however, the bolts are not a torque-to-yield design.






Fig. 59



Tighten the bolts in sequence (Fig. 59) using the following steps and torque values:
Step 1: Tighten bolts 1-10, 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) .
Step 2: Tighten bolts 1-10, 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) . Tighten bolts 11-14, 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) .
Step 3: Tighten bolts 1-10, 90 degrees. Tighten bolts 11-14, 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .
Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on either side of the V8 mark on the gear and position the gear onto the camshaft.
Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
Install the right side secondary chain guide.
Install the cylinder head access plug.
Re-set and install the right side secondary chain tensioner.
Remove Special Tool 8515.
Install the timing chain cover.
Install the crankshaft damper. Tighten damper bolt 175 Nm (130 Ft. Lbs.) .
Install accessory drive belt.
Install the fan shroud.
Install the cylinder head cover.
Install the intake manifold.
Install oil fill housing onto cylinder head.
Refill the cooling system.
Raise the vehicle.
Install the exhaust pipe onto the right exhaust manifold.
Lower the vehicle.
Reconnect battery negative cable.
Start the engine and check for leaks.










© 2009 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved.
Terms of Use

 

ok I have looked at this and decided something for you.....BLOW IT UP!
DONE
questions on how to do this?
1. Assemble tools.(Cinder Block, Fire Extinguisher)
2. Start Car
3. Drop block on gas pedal
4. Walk away
5. When loud noise or fire starts......

Problem solved

 

Depends on whether you want a project or just to get it out of your hair.

 

Project = :-x:-x:-x

At this point, after 07lmnt so kindly overwhelmed me with directions, my approach is to find a more reasonable price. I also don't want to be jerked around and some of this excellent information is helping out (even if some members are recommending death :evil. I joined a Jeep forum to see what their take is and am waiting to here back. The sad part is, there are plenty of similar threads and most of the discussion on there is damage and repairs, not MODs and adventures.

 

Sounds more like you're burning coolant.

 

I concur. Next on the list... MONEY!

 

Head Gasket....and whatever else.

 

+1 on the head gasket diagnoses----with the supplied given factors, just sell it as is----Mechanic Special For Sale

 

Y'all are welcome to borrow the 10-foot pole I wouldn't touch this project with.

"Mature" GC's are also renown for transmission problems. Murphy's Law says you will go through your own special Hell fixing that valve or head gasket (count me with the head gasket crowd), and the transmission will shoot craps on the test drive or shortly thereafter... if only out of sheer orneriness.

I'm firmly on the "cut your losses" side of the fence. Clean it up and make it appear good as a "looks great but needs engine work" cheapie on CL and don't look back lest you be turned into a pillar of salt.

 

The only reason I would prefer to get it fixed and not sell 'as is', is because I eliminate 99% of potential buyers by selling a non-usable vehicle. Someone skilled enough to do the work may already be aware of the "seasoned" GC reputation and will steer clear unless they enjoy self-inflicted wounds.

Getting it fixed for as high as $2k and selling it for $4k (super low price) would still bring me a decent return. I doubt I could get $2k selling it as is. V8's are still hugely desired in AZ (does sun kills brain cells?) for towing, 4-wheeling, etc. Gas burning is a national past time in these parts, not much for conservation.

Either way, I have more options. If I find out it will cost me 3500 to fix, then I will trash it, but until I get that news, I am still going to try and get it repaired.

 

...Getting it fixed for as high as $2k and selling it for $4k (super low price) would still bring me a decent return. I doubt I could get $2k selling it as is.

Why not try?

Put it up for sale while you do your own research....if you get a decent offer grab it.

 

theres realy not much to it if you have half a brain,manual,tools,somewhere to do it,good memory and or camra not camry,strong enought to lift & replace the head.,take it to the car wash & wash the engine real good,take it apart,then take the head to a good machine shop(no not the one in the back of that gas station) have a valve job done,serface,guide work if needed (bronze liners),do not let them put the valves in a tumbler to clean them. check for cracks in ex seats&chambers.deburr chambers&ex ports.clean&assemble, have fun,dont get hurt.

 

I have settled on a Jeep entusiast to do the work. $700 labor plus parts. He comes highly recommended by a local Jeep forum. No markup on parts. I am looking at a minimum of $950 if it is just the head gasket. That also includes coolant and the oil change. If head needs work, it will be more of course.

 

a little high but sounds good to me ,first try to see some of his work.if it's ok with you than spend that dough.