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Passenger Door Lock Switch (OEM look)

106K views 143 replies 45 participants last post by  PKFlyer 
#1 · (Edited)
Passenger Door Lock Switch - OEM Style
or how Honda should have done it to begin with..

Standard Disclaimer: I do not know your electrical knowledge or skill, I can say this modification works as posted and does not interfere with or cause problems of any kind to other parts of the electrical system. However, if you totally screw up your wiring or burn your Element to a cinder by attempting this mod I'm sorry - but you really shouldn't have been messing with the electrical system if your that inept. Fair enough?

Objective:
Install a door lock switch on the passenger's door that will lock and unlock all doors - just like the driver's door switch.

This is a follow up to Alaskan Toaster's Group Buy of the JDM Door Handle in the Group Buy Forum.

Required parts:

1 - 72125-SCV-J01ZB JDM Door handle (this is the gray color)
1 - 35380-S9V-A02ZB Door Lock Switch (same as on the driver's door)
2 - 93500-030080H Machine Screws (any correct size screw will work)
3 - lengths of wire as needed - any color. (20 gauge is fine.)
I used white, gray, and brown because that's what I had laying around.
2 - Molex connectors or similar. (whatever Radio Shack has...)
Installing:

We need to remove the door panel.Begin by removing the old door handle.

  • Pry cover loose
  • Remove two screws
  • Release the pink hook (pull the handle forward and out half-way to release the pink hook.)
  • Disconnect inner handle rod.
Then the Speaker Cover and speaker. Nothing special, just pull the cover off with your fingers, and unscrew the speaker. Disconnect the wire, and move the speaker to a safe place so it doesn't get damaged.

From under the armrest, pull the cover and remove the single screw.



Lower the window, then pull the bottom of the inner sash panel (A) out, then grab the top and move toward the from of the door, removing the sash panel. The panel on the front of the door removes simply by pulling straight out.

Pulling the door panel is not complicated nor does it require any special tools. Your hands work great - just start at the lower back and work your way around. There are clips located roughly where the red dots (C) are in the picture.

Once the panel is loose, shut the window. then disconnect the window switch (D).
Note: if you're squeamish now would be the time to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery... I did not disconnect the battery, but I'm sure the chances of totally screwing up something are greatly deminished if you do disconnect it.



Running the wires to the door isn't a problem either, simply use a stiff wire, I used a length of 12 solid (it was laying around) but any stiff wire would work. You want to feed the wire through the opening where the speaker was, through the 'rubber' grommet to the dash area behind the glovebox.

Once the wire is through, tape the new wires (three wires are required) and simply pull back through to the opening at the speaker.

Disconnect the 'stiff' wire and feed the three wires up through the opening where the wiring harness for the window switch is located. Keep the wires in the same general area as the existing harness to give room for the operation of the window.




Attach the connectors to the wires. Use adequate insulation if the connectors are not insulated already. A simple wrap or electrical tape on the center one is fine.

Connect the switch to the inner door handle and connect the inner door handle rod - the same way you removed it earlier.



Route the wiring under the dash to the far side of the dash. The connector we are going to use is located directly above the hood release. Looking directly above the latch, connector C751 is the larger gray one. Two wires we are needing are the White wire with the Green stripe (Unlock) and the White wire with the Blue stripe (Lock).

Simply splice the wires from the new switch into these wires. In the pictures posted, the GRAY wire is UNLOCK, the WHITE wire is LOCK, and the BROWN wire is simply a ground wire that I connected to a screw at the sub cover.

 
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#3 ·
Thanks guys, but it's no big deal.

Here's a few more pictures I made up but the system wouldn't allow but eight to be posted in one thread. :rolleyes:

Anyway, if these are any help to anyone:

The Parts List


Door Panel Pulling (almost)


Inside Door Handle Install



 
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#5 ·
bh241, that is a great write up/tutorial. There isn't really much to add to it but I will add this little bit of info for those that may want a factory plug for whatever reason. The plug that fits the cruise control switch on the E uses the same exact plug as the power door lock switch. So, just chop of the cruise plug and you have a perfect plug for your power door lock mod !! Who really uses cruise anyway :rolleyes:

OK, now SERIOUSLY, the plug does fit into the the door lock switch, but I really don't expect anybody to go chopping off the cruise control plug so they can have a factory power door lock plug :lol: I do know that the 96-00 Civic also has the same cruise control plug and those things are plentiful at junkyards. I also can't imagine that the yard would want more than a couple of bucks for the plug with a short pigtail of wire. It does have 5 wires but you could easily unpin the unused wires or just tape them off. You would obviously have to solder a lenght of wire onto this to make it reach the door lock wires on the driver side, but if your doing this mod, soldering or butt splicing some wire is not a big deal. The real benifit to this other than having a "stock appearance" is that if you ever have to take the panel off (or anybody else does for that matter), there is no concern about reconnecting the wires to the appropriate terminals. I think I am gonna stop down at the salvage yard tomorrow and pick one up....cause I don't want to loose my cruise function ;-) Anyway, for what it is worth, here are some pics of the connector you would be looking for. Remember folks....I use my camera phone almost all the time now, so you'll have to deal with the so-so pics :|
 

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#9 · (Edited)
Nice writeup, Benny. Do you have a picture of the 159-2xxx connectors on the switch contacts? Which connector did you use?

Interesting point about the Civic cruise control connector plug. It reminded me that individual connectors can be removed from plugs. Many OEM plugs could potentially serve as pigtail donors.

 
#10 · (Edited)
What I plan to do, if I can find a Civic donor, is cut down about 3-4", giving me enough room to splice into the already connected wires, using solderless connectors. Saves time trying to pry the wires out (done THAT before)..... :shock::rolleyes:
 
#11 ·
Ok folks.....just got back from the salvage yard. Another donor candidate is the 98 body style Accord. The hazard switch and the cruise control have the same plug on that style Accord. That generation Accord ran from 98-02 but I am not sure if all the plugs stayed the same, but most likely they did. This should make finding the plug even easier :D
 
#12 · (Edited)
Ok....mine is done now. I started on it about Noon and got done at about 2:30 :-o This should take like 30-45 minutes, but I was at work and had to stop to answer the phone several times, receive my UPS shipment, take my partner's dog's out to do their business :rolleyes: On top of that, my buddy stopped by and I had to keep my eye on his 2 year old daughter who thought it would be fun to randomly kick my other $25k+ project that is sitting in my shop :mad: She's too cute to get mad at though. I am starting to realize why I never get enough done during a day.....too many other things get done while I am trying to do what I should be doing. Anyway, used the plug I got at the yard, soldered, heatshrinked, etc.... This is one of those mods that will have no real gratification for me, lol, but it's cool anyway.

Oh yea, the existing plug for the passenger window is the same as the donor plug. So if your using a donor plug, make sure you plug them back into the appropriate place. I removed the unused wires on mine, so it was easily identifiable.
 
#13 ·
The whole connector thing NismoGriff is posting got me curious so I just thumbed through the electrical manual, it looks like all these connectors are the same:

  • Cruise Control main Switch ( Connector 148 )
  • Driver's Door Lock Switch ( Connector 150 )
  • Front Passenger's Power Window Switch ( Connector 151 )
  • Left Tail Light Assembly ( Connector 155 )
  • Right Tail Light Assembly ( Connector 159 )
Any of you parts/service guys know if any of these are available?
Of course, if there are that many on the E, I imagine the accord also had several throughout it too... Anyone?
 
#14 ·
I also noticed the window switch on the passanger side using the same plug. I went as far as pulling the harnedd out of the dor and running the wires into it all the way to the OEM connector behind the glovebox. Now I just have to run it to the drivers side. Also a 94-01 Integra passanger window switch will serve as a doner for the plug.
 
#15 ·
OK guys, I hate to be a pain in the rear but I finally, finally got the PDL in place. Took forever to run the wire through the rubber grommet as everything I used seemed to get hung up. I guess from what I could see, there is foam insulation inside that tunnel and my kept getting hung up. None the less, the coat hanger made it through finally and life is good. I when ahead and grounded right behind the glove box as I saw a good spot, then ran my two wires across to the other side where they need to be to make final connection. PROBLEM! :cry:

How in the heck do you get that connector out. I pulled, squeezed and pulled and nothing. I don't want to damage anything and I know there is always a simple solution so I thought I'd ask. What gives? At least I have the hard part done and now its just a matter of tapping into the those two wires to control the Lock/Unlock. I also know I probably won't get an answer before I head out to work at 1400hrs and it's 1100hrs now. Time to make a Blockbuster run. If the Lord smiles down on me, I'll have an answer when I get back and I can finish this up. If not, Thursday will be the earliest.

Thanks again to all who put this together and the help along the way. This is putting the finishing touches on the little stuff I want done before next month. My stems, hub rings and lugs should be here today and maybe, just maybe we go get the new wheels and tires mounted tomorrow, or Thursday,maybe Friday.:oops:

So much to do and so little time.

Peace!
 
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#18 ·
I just came in to check to see if anyone who's actually done this had responded. I still can't get the freakin' thing out! :cry:

I even tried some needle nose on the plastic tab that locks it into its metal bracket and because my hands are so big, I just can't get it. I think I see the wires but my vision isn't the best, thus, I really need to bring it out to see. I started to take a swag *scientific wild ass guess* and getting the correct two wires I need by just putting the splice connectors on them and then using butt connectors which plug into the spicers to make the contact but I really need to make sure I have the correct wires. I don't know what I'm going to do. I'm there but NOT!
 
#19 ·
I just came in to check to see if anyone who's actually done this had responded. I still can't get the freakin' thing out! :cry:
Chozn - any luck, yet?

What I ended up doing (before I FINALLY found the tab) was pinched the round-ish connector on the metal plate to get the whole enchilada off. THAT'S when I found the tab on the back side. It still wasn't easy to separate, used a screwdriver to carfeully separate the two halves after I started an opening. Hope this gets you closer. The inline splices I used were still a pain due to the lack of slack in the wires. :shock::|

Anywho, finished the mod today and it locks/unlocks as it should (have from the factory), so I'm happy (only a couple of cuss words and little bit of skin later). I installed the switch and handle last week, but didn't wire it up until this weekend. LOOKED nice....... :shock::rolleyes::D

Thanks again Benny, your write-up was well referenced in the process..... :):)
 
#20 ·
No luck

I'm still needing to make the final connections on the lock/unlock wires from the drivers side. I've ran the wires to the connector but I still can't get it out. I haven't had the time to get back on it but as you can see from my posted pics, the carbon fibor kit that I cut to work with the switch on the drivers side is kicking! Its all good but but for actually working. I need to get this done and complet.

Again, any suggestions to getting this connector out, I can use to allow me more space and seeing of the wires to make the fix.
 

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#21 · (Edited)
I'm still needing to make the final connections on the lock/unlock wires from the drivers side. I've ran the wires to the connector but I still can't get it out. I haven't had the time to get back on it but as you can see from my posted pics, the carbon fibor kit that I cut to work with the switch on the drivers side is kicking! Its all good but but for actually working. I need to get this done and complet.

Again, any suggestions to getting this connector out, I can use to allow me more space and seeing of the wires to make the fix.
Did you buy the CF by the sheet? I bought the dash kit, but, the shifter piece is a larger circle than my shifter and it's VERY visible. Anyway, yours looks great!!

OK, back to the wiring. Here are a pic of the wire crimps that I used. The arrows should be self explanatory. The connector arrow is what I mention earlier. Once you get the whole plug off, the disconnect for the two halves is in the middle, back side from the angle of this pic (about where the blue crimp piece is). There is still little wiggle room in the wire and it was a definite PITA to get the inline crimp on each wire.

Hope this helps.
 

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#22 ·
Thanks A_T! I'll try that.
On THE CF, it was a kit off of Ebay. Let me know which ones you need, I'll scan them to a file and forward. Peace!
I just need the piece that covers the MT shift plate, the one I got was for an 03-05, so the radio and shiftplate pieces were all off. Can deal with the radio piece, not off enough to make it a problem, but the shift plate - NOT!! LMK if you need actual measurements..... :rolleyes::D:)

Good luck with the PDL, I know MY wife has already given me the thumbs up (does anything else matter??)!! :p:p:p:p
 
#24 ·
chozen - the connector shouldn't be that difficult to unhook. Just remember that the 'tab' is located in the center of the connector - in the back. It's tough to see, but it is there.

Just use a pair of needle nose pliers and grab it in the center and pull straight down. It will come right out. Granted, it's tough for us older guys to get down in there - but remember in a couple of days or so the soreness goes away. :)
 
#25 ·
I give the #(#*$&@( up!

OK, I got the connector off of its bracket some how (wasn't trying to do this, this time) and this didn't give me any more space to work with. Anyway, I checked my ground again and I have a good ground at the main ground point behind the sub woofer. I rechecked my switch to make sure I had a good connection there as well. It was locked into place. I came back to the connector from hell and again, I found the tab pressed it and pulled and it said "I'm not coming out so you can #($*#&@&#^@^^*)#) forget it buddy!"

I tried to remove my splicer connectors and they're locked into place and I can't get them off. I was going to attempt to cut some of the sheathing off and try to touch the wires to the perspective wires and see what happens. I just have no space to maneuver or work with down there. Then on top of it, I'm having trouble seeing the wires. I'm pretty sure I have the right wires. I see one wire that looks like it's solid white. I know in this mod it is mention to use the white wire with blue and the white wire with green however it looks the other way around to me, green wire with white and blue wire with white and I look at them so long, they start to run together.
All this said, I'm done with it. Its a same to because I'm so close.
Maybe, just maybe if I make it to Ohio which is in doubt, just maybe if I do make it, someone who's done this mod can assist me on this final snag. If not, I'll have a passenger door look that looks good and in non-operational.
I don't know why my connector is so hard to remove or separate than everyone else's.

Thanks to all again for the emails, PM's but I can't get it done.


Peace!
 
#26 ·
chozen -

I'll look when I get back home and let you now exactly where but the two wires continue on to the under-dash fuse/relay box. I'm thinking they entered on one of the connectors on the back of the unit - but I honestly don't remember of the top of my head.

It may be easier for you to splice in the wires there. :confused:

Remind me if I don't post the location - ok?
 
#27 ·
As promised, although a tad late, the wires do go straight from the connector to the Multiplex Control Unit in the Under Dash Fuse/Relay box - they are part of the "A" main harness.

They enter in the rear at connector "Y" - a 13 cavity Light Green Connector located in the back of the MCU - UDFR box. (It's the one in the center of the back - lowest 'row' from the top.)
  • White wire/green stripe - pin 10 = UNLOCK
  • White wire/blue stripe - pin 12 = LOCK

I seriously doubt that this is any easier to get to than the one above the hood-release.



 
#32 ·
That's the connector for the switch. It looks like he's making some. You'll still need to get the terminals though.

Personally, I would just hit a junk yard - you should be able to find it in dang near any Honda. It's used in multiple places in the Accord, Civic, and Element that I know of for certain.
 
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