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Daytime Running Lights - US version

97K views 102 replies 44 participants last post by  Minttrose 
#1 · (Edited)
Daytime Running Light Mod for the Honda Element

The DRL mod for the SC is posted in post #28 the mod as described in this post is for all other versions of the Element .

Objective:
Modify the US version of the Honda Element to provide Daytime Running Lights, DRL. The modification should function identically to the Canadian version turn on at reduce voltage both high beam filaments. The process should be totally automatic, and not interfere in any way with the manual control of the lighting system. The lights should not come on if the parking brake is set.
Requirements:
3 high current 12v DC SPDT relays ( 20 amp or better ) RLY3, RL4, RL5
2 low current 12v DC ( SPDT ) relays (low current relays) RLY1, RLY2
1 SPST switch – any type. (optional)
3 1N4004 diodes
A hand full of wire and some time.
Schematic:
Text Technical drawing Diagram Plan Drawing


Installing:
There are a total of four wires that will have to be cut, and one that will be spliced, if you're squeamish about cutting the OEM wiring harness, this is probably not a mod you want to do. Please understand, I know this mod works - I have it installed in my E. But, I have no idea of anyones electrical skills, therefore if you try this mod and totally bugger up the wiring, It's not my fault. As long as you follow the schematics and descriptions posted - it will work as stated.

Three of the wires that need to be cut are in the Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box, UDFR. The "C" connector contains four wires, they are:
  • #1 - RED wire with WHITE stripe (low beam)
  • #2 - BLUE wire with RED stripe (headlight relays)
  • #7 - RED wire with BLUE stripe (high beam)
Also the one wire that needs to be spliced is also in the "C" connector:
  • #8 - GREEN wire with ORANGE stripe (parking brake)
The other wire that must be cut is at the LEFT HEADLIGHT #2 the RED wire with a YELLOW stripe. This wire will be connected to RLY5. If you are using a standard automotive relay, use the following terminals
  • 85 - The wire from the engine compartment (power from relay #1 NO contact)
  • 86 - Connect to ground.
  • 87a - Connect the RED wire with the YELLOW stripe FROM the wire harness.
  • 87 - Connect to ground.
  • 30 - Connect the RED wire withe the YELLOW stripe FROM the connector.
I recommend building a small circuit board containing relays 1 through 4 along with the three diodes. Relay 5 can then be installed under the hood, near the left headlight. That way, only one wire will need to be taken from the cabin to the engine compartment.

As the schematic shows, the wires will be cut and a set of relay contacts inserted. There are two places where it is REQUIRED that you get the correct wire to the correct terminal of the relay, please note that the UDFR - C2 wires and the LEFT HEADLIGHT wires need to be correctly placed on the relay or the circuit will not work correctly. I have noted in the simplified schematic where the wires go. Notice the difference between the wire going to the connector and the wire from the harness - that is referring to the same wire but after it has been cut.

I'll will be building another circuit board and installing into an E in the near future, at that time I'll make some pictures and the whole process should be much clearer.

Text Diagram Font Line Parallel


Circuit Description:
This modification will give the US version the same Daytime Running Lights, DRL, as in the Canadian Element. The bright lights will come on at reduced voltage when the ignition switch is in the "RUN" or "II" position as long as the parking brake is not set. However, unlike the Canadian version, if the parking brake is set after the DRLs come on, they will go out.

This mod will work as posted for any 03-07 Honda Element. It could possibly work with the 08 too, but I do not have the schematics for them so I cannot say for certain. If anyone can supply a copy of the US version headlight circuit, I can make certain this will work for the 08.

Power is drawn from the middle pin of connector "V", one of the "Option Connectors" in the Under-dash Fuse/Relay box.
The "V" option connector
Product Electronics Technology Vehicle

The terminal (V3) is fused through fuse 14, on a circuit that is only ‘hot’ when the ignition switch is in the “RUN” or “II” position. (If you prefer to have a method to override the DRL and turn the whole thing off place a SPST switch in line with the wire from the V3 terminal.) The DRL will function automatically without any intervention.

When the ignition switch is in the “RUN” position, the headlight switch is in the OFF position, the parking brake is not set, power is applied to the coil of relays 2 through 5 through the contact of relay 1.

The two headlight relays are energized by relay 2. The low beam circuit is opened by relay 3. The high beam circuit is opened by relay 4. The high beam circuit is modified by relay 5.

The four relays (2, 3, 4, and 5) come on - relay 5 modifies the power connection of the left high beam lamp effectively placing the two headlights in series by applying a ground while not altering the +12v on the other headlight. Effectively, applying half power to the two high beam lamps.

In the event the lights are turned on, either by the “Flash – to – Pass” or turning on the headlight switch, relay 1 energizes. This relay cuts the path for the power to relays 2, 3, 4, and 5. With the power gone to the coils of relays 2, 3, 4, and 5 the headlight circuitry returns to normal and the headlights function exactly as Honda originally designed.

When the ignition switch is turned off (or to “ACC”) the power is lost to the coils of relays which in turn shuts off the whole DRL circuit. There is no parasitic drain on the E’s battery when the car is turned off. The entire circuit is automatic, it's on only when the ignition switch is in the "RUN" or "II" position, and turns off anytime the light switch is turned on or the ignition switch turned off or to the accessory position or the parking brake is set.

Special notes:

A) the option connector (V) has three connections
...............................................................................................Parking
Ignition Switch Position----------Off------.I------Run----Start------Lights On .......Fuse
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Left "V" connection................. -......+12 .. +12 .....- .................-............... 8 (7.5 amp)
Center "V" connection .............- ........- ....+12...... - .................- .............14 (10 amp)
Right "V" connection ...............- ........- ......- ........-...............+12 ..............2 (15 amp)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

B) I recommend building a small circuit board with relays 1, 2, 3, 4 and the diodes then placing all this in a project box, and mounting under the dash.

C) Relay 5 should be mounted under the hood, as shown earlier. A super easy way to run the ONE wire necessary to the engine compartment is described by another EOC member K-Dogg in this post.

Text Font Parallel Diagram Rectangle


Notes:
Due to requests I have modified the circuit to provide a way for the DRL to be off and still have the car running. Hence, the parking brake. That way, the circuit will work correctly as posted regardless of the type transmission you have. Additionally if you prefer - for whatever reason - to have a way to disable the DRL you can always place a SPST switch in the circuit from the V3 terminal. Just remember, if you do that the DRLs are no longer totally automatic - if you have the switch off the DRL will not work.

If you are planning to modify your lights, and have any questions, feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Also - if anyone in the general Shelby area is planning to do this mod, please contact me - I really need to make some photographs of the process. (Consider that an offer for free help) ;-)

I'll get the PDF files updated and reposted in the next day or so.
 
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#3 ·
I broke into a sweat just reading this. I want DRLs but am not brave enough to start cutting wires or doing other mods to the electrical system. Too bad this isn't something the dealer would do as a "dealer install". I think it would be a money maker for the dealer.

Thanks for all the work and information. Maybe I will get this done once the warranty is gone. Until then I will leave things as they are unless the dealer is willing to do the mod and I don't see that happening.
 
#4 ·
:lol: What he said. I know when I had my '98 Lexus GS400, I wanted DRL's for it and I bought a simple kit that just wired into my headlights but the guys doing it couldn't figure out the proper grounding for a Japanese auto and therefore my HID lights were flashing like I was in my patrol car trying to pull someone over for a traffic violation. I sent it back and was refunded though the company said it could be installed. I'm glad to see someone has the knowledge and fortitude to break it all down but I know I dare not get into cutting wires and such. If someone does embark on this mod, please, please take pictures and give step by step directions. Personally, I want someone to hold my hand on this one.. :razz:
 
#5 ·
Gee guys, It's only three wires. :confused:

Tell you what, I'll get the stuff together and do this mod on mine and post some clear pictures and a step-by-step.

I'll try and get it done this coming weekend, but no promises.
 
#7 ·
I've wanted DRL's since I bought my E a little over a year ago.

For me it's a safety issue, plus many auto insurance companies give a discount for having this feature.

Here is a link to a company that makes the module for the 03 — 05 Elements.

http://www.hamsar.com/drlkits.htm

It is the same item # even though they break the model years into two segments (03 - 04 and 05) Item #45020 (with extra set of lamps). I guess the "(with extra set of lamps)" means fog lights, but I am not positive.

There are two US Distributors listed on the site:

Muncie Reclamation & Supply Co.
3720 South Madison Street
Muncie, IN 47302
Phone: (765) 288-1971
Fax: (765) 286-0164
±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±
P.U.M.A.
1670 Enterprise Parkway Unit E
Twinsburg, OH 44087
Phone: (330) 425-2800
Fax: (330) 425-2818
Toll Free: (800) 354-3552
±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±
±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±±

bh241: Since you understand this what are your thoughts?

chozn4service: Your making me look bad by clearing your headlight so fast.
That's still on my six month old 'Do Today' list.



.
 
#10 ·
Missing Element said:
bh241: Since you understand this what are your thoughts?
There's not much to go on there on the web site. I couldn't find out any specifics about it, but was able to see a larger picture of the unit
Networking cables Cable Wire Electrical wiring Electrical connector

It does appear to be a unit that you will have to splice into the wiring though. Do you have an idea of the costs? Installation? It may well be the option for some, but I would need more info about it to make any kind of realistic statement about it, Some of the other units they have on their site look to be 'plug in' type installs - but again I don't really know.

I've built up everything for the mod, and hope to have it installed this weekend. So far, the costs are coming in at $12.75 total. Although, I did not have to purchase any solder, soldering iron, or any tools. I'm figuring once the wire and connectors are bought, you're looking at a total of about $20.00 tops.

I started doing this mod because someone else made it and then decided they didn't want to share it with everyone or something - I kinna came in a t the tail end of the whole thing so I'm not real sure what happened. At any rate, i figured it was an easy enough mod that most anyone with some electrical skills could tackle with a minimal of guidance. thus the mod as posted.
 
#11 ·
I'm curious - some seem a tad 'worried' to start cutting into the wiring of their E, I can't honestly blame you. I don't think a lot of it, but I do deal in electronics for a living.

Would you guys/gals be interested in a quick easy mod for DRL (kinna) ?

It's fairly easy to add one relay that will turn on the low beam headlamps? Would that be something you would be interested in?
 
#12 ·
I would be interested. I have the habit of turning on my lights every time I drive but it might be nice for it to become a no brainer. I planned to add them on my own after seeing your post at a later date. Not shy about cutting into the electrics. But an easy kit would have value.
Thanks for your effort and time on this.
I have never had an original thought in my life and I marvel at the creativity and resourcefulness of everyone on this forum.
 
#13 · (Edited)
OK - here you are Daytime Running Lights - lite :)

Granted, they aren't exactly DRL at least not what I understand them to be, but it is quick and easy. The cost is pretty much nill, if you have the relay from your "rear socket always on mod"

You can make up three wires like I've shown here in this picture:

Wire Product Light Cable Technology


Then connect to your old rear outlet relay:
Wire Technology Electronic device Finger


The Blue wire will connect to the two pins on the relay and then to any ground - (if you are looking at the under-dash fuse/relay box, look to your right, you should see a great ground point to the right.)

The Violet wire will connect to the BLUE wire with the RED stripe in the F connector of the UDFR box. Use one of the blue wire splice things, and you're good to go.

The Orange wire has two female spade connectors, one is a small one and that will connect to the V3 terminal of the under-dash fuse/relay box. The connector has three male spade terminals, use the one in the middle.

Connect the wires as described in this drawing:
Text Line Diagram Font Parallel


The connectors on the Under-Dash Fuse/relay box:
Text Line art Line Font Design


Circuit operation will be automatic, when the ignition switch in in the RUN position, the relay will energize and in turn energize the two headlight relays. Since the low beam filaments are normally connected to ground, the low beams come on. Note: if the light switch is in the HIGH BEAM position, the high beams will come on.

Normal operation of the light switch is still available, you must turn the switch on before the parking lights will function.

Basically all this relay is doing is turning on the low beams at full power, if you want the fancy smancy half-power high beams, then you gotta do the original mod.

Happy now? :)
 
#14 · (Edited)
Here's some pictures of the #5 relay in the engine compartment. All the others were installed under the dash. The single wire was pulled through to the engine compartment to the coil of this relay.

The HIGH beam circuit of the left headlamp is modified when this relay is engaged, removing the normal +12 volts instead applying a ground. The circuit then has +12v feeding through the right headlamp, through the left headlamp and then to ground. In effect, half bright high beams. :)

Vehicle Motor vehicle Auto part Engine Car


Auto part Wire Engine Vehicle Car


The relay is a standard 12v sealed relay. I purchased it from www.aerostitch.com for $3.00. (decent price) While I was there, I got a sheet of this "Headlight Shield" to go over the Fog Lights to prevent breaking from small rocks.
 
#16 ·
I have made the changes to the DRL circuit that were requested. I have edited the first post.

Now, the DRL will NOT come on if the parking brake is set.

I also tried to make the description clearer so everyone can understand it better.

I will be making another circuit board and installing this mod on another E in the near future, at that time I promise to make some pictures and post them.

If you are pondering this mod, and have any questions let me know. I'll help all I can.

:)
 
#17 ·
Three questions about the intructions:
In the pictures of the underhood relay you mean relay #5 right, not #4 ?

What is the difference between a high and low current relay?

Which relays are high current and which are low current in the simple schematic?

I'm going to begin this as soon as I have it all pictured in my head. Do you think I can get all that I need in radio shack? or do i need to find a better store?
 
#18 ·
Three questions about the intructions:
In the pictures of the underhood relay you mean relay #5 right, not #4 ?
Yes, I added a relay for the high beam circuit, originally if the headlight switch were left in the HIGH beam position, then one headlight would be bright, while the other would be very dim. So, I added an 'anti-wink' relay. I just forgot to modify the other post. :oops: I'll get to that directly.

What is the difference between a high and low current relay?

Which relays are high current and which are low current in the simple schematic?
I'm talking about the current rating of the relays contacts. Relays 1 and 2 are the low current relays, 2 amp contacts would be fine. However, relays 3,4, and 5 actually carry the current for the actual headlights, typically these are 30 amp relays - but honestly anywhere from say 20 to 40 amp would be fine.

I'm going to begin this as soon as I have it all pictured in my head. Do you think I can get all that I need in radio shack? or do i need to find a better store?
Radio shack should have all the parts necessary, you could probably get the parts cheaper other places though. Remember, there's a lot of 'wiggle' room when it comes to selecting parts. As long as they meet the current/voltage requirements, it really doesn't matter who made it, or what the physical appearance is.

Good luck with your mod - make some pictures! (I still need to do that... )
 
#25 ·
Relay #3 and Relay #4 can be SPST as long as you can find them with NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACTS - most all SPST relays have Normally Open Contacts.

Relay #5 must be SPDT because you are switching the headlight filament between +12v and ground.

You can get them as I posted in this message for $3.00 - not bad at all actually.
 
#26 ·
I'm in the process of getting this done, and thought I'd share my approach. Note that the way I did it has made the project more expensive ($70-80 range) but there's no building circuit boards and no soldering inside the car (two of my least favorite activities)

I used SPDT relays and matching relay sockets from DigiKey to hold everything together. The sockets interlock and form a makeshift project box, and all I had to do was make the right connections between each terminal.

Picture 1: Relay sockets 1-4 with the main wires installed. Red is power, black is ground, and green connects each relay in sequence. The connector goes to the wire that runs to the hood.

Picture 2: the cable for C2 and C8 with the diodes. I'm using quick disconnects at each wire I have to mod so I don't have to solder under the dash, just crimp.

Picture 3: the completed under-dash module.
Picture 4: the completed under-hood module.
 

Attachments

#28 · (Edited)
Daytime Running Lights for the Honda Element SC

Daytime Running Lights for the Honda Element SC

The SC has an entirely different headlight circuit than the other Elements. The original modification will NOT work on the SC. It will work with every other Element (to date) though.

This post will allow you to modify the Honda Element SC to have Daytime Running Lights, DRL just like the other Elements. This modification will do basically the same as with the other Elements - turn on the High Beam Lights at a reduced voltage totally automatically. The same basic conditions exist in this mod as the other - if the parking brake is applied the lights go out - if one desires a switch can be placed between the V3 terminal and the #1 relay to completely disable the DRL function and revert the whole thing back to normal OEM function.

Please note, I do not own an Element SC, I have not done this modification to an Element SC; however, I assure you that this modification will work. If you have any questions about this mod please contact me and I will try and answer your concerns. Additionally, if you do this mod please make some pictures as this will make the whole thing easier to understand.

Text Technical drawing Plan Diagram Floor plan

The Modification

There are four wires that will be cut and relays inserted. Both wires for the high beam headlamps on each side will need to be cut as shown in this schematic.

Text Diagram Line Font Plan

The red highlights show where the four relays need to be inserted in the engine compartment. A standard SPDT automotive relay like the ones here will work great, although you may want to look at the way drivestoclimb used the automotive relays in his mod. Just make sure you're using a sealed automotive relay with both normally open and normally closed contacts. They should have these terminals:

Text Font Line Diagram Circle


All four relays will have terminals #85 connected together and connected to a wire that will come from the cabin area. All relays will have terminal #86 connected to the chasis to form a good ground.

Because of the way the low beam headlights are wired, we need to totally isolate them from the high beams to keep them from being illuminated or even partially illuminated. I saw several methods of doing it, but6 chose this way because it seems to be a lot easier to do.

The four wires that need to be cut are:
Right side high beam lamp
  • Red wire (make sure you have the high beam light)
  • Red wire with Blue stripe
Left side high beam lamp
  • Red wire with Yellow stripe
  • Red wire with Blue Stripe
Left High Beam

Start with the left high beam lamp, cut both the Red wire with the Blue stripe and the Red wire with the Yellow stripe. These should be the only two wires going to the light.

Take the Red wire with the Yellow stripe that is coming from the headlight socket and connect it to the relay #5 (as shown on the schematic) terminal '30' (the common). Now, connect the Red wire with the Yellow stripe that is left to terminal # 87a of the same relay. On this same relay connect terminal #87 and #86 to ground (chassis).

Take the Red wire with the Blue stripe from the headlight socket and connect it to terminal #30 of relay #4. As before, connect the wire you just cut to terminal #87a. A single wire from terminal #87 of this relay will connect to terminal #87 of relay #3 on the right site. Connect terminal #86 to the chassis and connect #85 to the same wire connected to terminal #85 on relay #5.

Right High Beam

Now for the right high beam lamp. Again cut both wires going to the high beam lamp, the Red wire with Blue stripe and the Red wire. Please note that the low beam headlight also has a Red wire, do not confuse the two. The high beam is the only one we want to cut.

Take the Red wire that is coming from the headlight socket and connect it to the relay #2 (as shown on the schematic) terminal '30' (the common). Now, connect the Red wire that is left to terminal # 87a of the same relay. On this same relay connect terminal #87 to the power wire coming from the Under dash Fuse Relay Box's 'F" connector. (see simplified schematic)

Take the Red wire with the Blue stripe from the headlight socket and connect it to terminal #30 of relay #3. As before, connect the wire you just cut to terminal #87a. A single wire from terminal #87 of this relay will connect to terminal #87 of relay #4 on the left site. Connect terminal #86 to the chassis and connect #85 to the same wire connected to terminal #85 on the other relays.

The Interior Connections

The power for this mod is drawn from two locations on the Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box.

Text Font Parallel Rectangle

The power for the 'relays' is drawn from the "V" connector pin #3 while the power for the headlights themselves is drawn from "F" connector pin #11 (red wire with a Blue stripe). This is the same circuit that the Canadian DRL draws power for the headlights. This circuit also powers the TPMS Control unit and is fused through Fuse #3.

If desired, a switch can be placed between the V3 connector and Relay #1 that would give you the option of totally disabling the DRL circuit if desired. Other wise the high beam lights will come on when the SC's ignition is turned to the "RUN" position and the parking brake is NOT set. Any time the parking brake is set the DRL circuit is shut down.

As with the modification posted for the other models, the DRL mod does not interfere with the normal operation of the headlight circuit, any time the headlights are turn on - be it for the 'flash-to-pass" or low/high beam operation the DRL automatically disconnects from the OEM wiring and the headlights function as originally designed.

Four wires need to be connected to the Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box.

  • the parking brake circuit needs to be spliced into "C8" the Green wire with the Orange stripe.
  • the headlight switch needs to be spliced into "C2" the Blue wire with the red stripe.
  • the power source, option connector "V3" the middle pin in the connector.
  • the power source for the headlights - the Red wire with the Blue stripe "F11"


This simplified schematic shows just the wiring that this mod requires.

Text Font Line Diagram Parallel

As noted in the simplified diagram, two diodes (1N4004 or equivalent) are required for the circuit to operate properly. Make note that the anode of the diode needs to be oriented properly.

If someone does this mod, please make some pictures and post.

Any questions? :)

 
#29 · (Edited)
Clever. I realized what you did when I remembered helping Dance figure out why he had some irregular light output. He had the same thing occuring with a blown headlight fuse (for one side) except both grounds were not on at the same time so as a result, (I believe) the high ground was causing a 25%/75% light output.

Anyways, I am going to try this DRL mod with a weird set up. I have an 06 EX wiring harness with an attached external wiring harness which uses the left headlight's 12v power source as a signal source for a relay drawing power off of the battery and grounded to the chassis. So, basically whenever the main headlight switch is on, the low beams are on regardless. The wand now acts as an on/off for the high beams. I would like to obtain the DRL's for the high beams. The problem I have right now is that I can not use the feedback method you used for the non-SC so easily. Well, at least that's what I am going to figure out now.


Keep in mind I could care less how much I hack this thing up. :grin: Just as long as everything works... My brain is fried being 3 in the morning but I'm still thinking.


It's possible to have a wire run from the red/blue wire (or what I have now is the red/yellow 12v source on the left headlight) to control a relay which will switch between two connections which intercepts on the red/blue high ground wire - the original high ground and a new one which connects to a new DRL ground. The new DRL ground will have a resistor integrated to produce the dim lighting effect and grounds to the chassis. Right now, that wire is serving as a signal source for a relay controlling power input from the battery to low beam HID's grounded to the chassis. So, one signal wire (red yellow most likely) will serve to control two separate relays. Have a wire run from the V connector which will provide the signal source for a third relay which turns on/off a 12v power source from the battery to the high beam bulbs. This means whenever the key is set to the right ignition setting, the high beam bulbs get power and whenever it's off, they don't. In effect, what this generates is the following effect in theory:

Always true:
Headlight switch on: HID's are on
Headlight switch off: HID's are off
Car ignition off: high beam bulbs have no power, always off


Car ignition on: (high beam bulbs have power)
--If headlight switch is off:
-------Wand is in low beam position: DRL light effect
-------Wand is in high beam position: DRL light effect
-------Wand is pulled towards driver: HID's and high beams are on full effect (bad side effect)
--If headlight switch is on:
-------Wand is in 'regular' position: HID's on, high beams off
-------Wand is in 'high beam' positon: HID's on, high beams on full effect
-------Wand is pulled towards driver: HID's on, high beams on full effect




If I theorized correctly (now being 3:40AM having been up since 8:30 AM the previous day) that should work and work well with near proper functioning. Unless I messed up reanalyzing what I wrote, that should work. Thoughts? Errors? With the current set up, its pretty much unavoidable with out major hackwork to prevent the HID's from coming on when you pull the wand towards you. I'll live with that since that's how it is set up now. I'll have to figure out what resistor to use and relays assuming that my resistor ground will work. It should given the nature of the original set up. Just have to wire the high beam ground wires in sequence to mimic the effect. Same goes for the power source. It's going to be an interesting new wiring harness... I think that's the best part: it can be made so it's completely removable with out altering the original set up! :D:D (I just realized this, final edit at 3:45.) Well, aside from running the single wire from the cabin which at that is technically not a permanent alteration if you don't damage anything in the process. So, yes it's completely removable with no negative side effects for future application. That's kind of nice to know. For whatever reason I can just swap out the DRL /HID harness for a regular 1 relay HID harness or no harness and just have regular halogen bulbs. Having options is nice but to me this will be permanent.

I'll need to come up with the proper wiring set up but this set up will work for anyone who has a non-SC who converted to an SC front end with out changing the wiring harness and wants high beam DRL's. More or less anyways depending on whether or not they grounded the low beams to the chassis.


Edit: added the updated picture.
 
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