I boutght an 08 LX AWD AT that had 144,000 miles when I first bought it in Feb. 2021. I had the P2646 code and experienced "limp mode" a couple of months later. I installed an aftermarket VTEC unit w/new screen, and replaced the screen under the alternator. I had the code again, not long after and started running 15W 40 dino oil {on the chance that my oil pressure was low} and everything was alright till late October. It was in the shop for 3 weeks for body work and on the way home from the body shop it went into P2646 again {scared my son, who was driving it home, to deatn, LOL} So I took the aftermarket VTEC back to O'Reillys and they gave me a new one, which did not get rid of the code. So I went to the junkyard and got a used VTEC from a Honda CRV, installed it, and 13,000 miles later it still works. I still run the 15w 40 oil.

Was the one from the CRV OEM? I don't know. I still have the new aftermarket VTEC, but don't know if I would try it again. LOL

 

Thanks a bunch for responding! When you refer to the "VTEC" is that the sensor and screen on the back of the motor everyone refers to in my review of posts?

So I took the aftermarket VTEC back to O'Reillys and they gave me a new one, which did not get rid of the code. So I went to the junkyard and got a used VTEC from a Honda CRV, installed it, and 13,000 miles later it still works. I still run the 15w 40 oil.

 

My 2008 LX FWD AT has experienced it as well. It has a low oil pressure problem (only about 5 psi at idle when fully warmed up) that I am currently addressing by running 5W40 synthetic oil.

Note: This is after the screens, solenoid, and switch had been replaced.

 

Keep in mind that sometimes the little screens need to be cleaned out many times before it stops throwing the code, as deposits break loose in the engine. It’s an inconvenience, but it’s worked for me.

 

Interesting. Would you say both screens need to be cleaned multiple times or is doing the solenoid screen enough for the subsequent times? I only ask because the one by the steering pump is such a pita.

 

*double post

 

double post goodness

 

It’s bits of sludge and carbon deposits which break loose from the inside surfaces of the engine, flushed out as you drove. I think they’re whatever is dislodged post-filter, not something that’s pumped around inside the engine. If you’re concerned about it, change the oil filter between oil changes, to ensure the filter isn’t clogging and impeding oil volume.

 

I strongly disagree. With these Honda VTEC engines in particular, change that oil early and often. It keeps all the P2646 / P2647 / Limp Mode issues away.

Regular oil changes, like 5K miles or less intervals (depending how dusty it is where you live) are a small price to pay versus all the grief caused by the above 3 issues.

Like the old TV commercial: "Pay me now, or Pay me later!"

I prefer to pay for simple oil & filter changes now!

 

Oil filters have a by pass valve in them. When oil is cold and thick some of the oil does not get filtered. Thats why it's a good practice to keep rpm's low until warmed up. My thoughts are, even when fully up to temperature, at 6000 rpms not all of the oil is filtered. Another reason to change oil early, not at 10,000 or more miles.

 

Does any responsible vehicle owner wait 10K miles to change their oil? My family had an accord with nearly 640K kms and the original engine, and my dad changed the oil at the recommended service intervalnits whole life, and those were at 10k kms. Changing oil way before the recommended interval (I’m talking about people who change it every few thousand or so) are just wasting oil and money, which is hard on the environment and the wallet.

 

I see vehicles in for oil changes at 10k or more. Brand new $80,000+ getting first free oil change. Imagine how long they wait when they have to pay for it. These folks usually trade in after a few years, so the long term effects of long oil change intervals does not effect them. It's the 2nd or 3rd owner stuck repairing sludged worn out engines.

 

You’re certainly welcome to disagree, and I have had no problems with plugged screens the way I service my vehicles. This latest crv I acquired was neglected and has been the troublemaker, but it’s much better than when I first got it. After 3 oil changes in as many months, it’s much cleaner inside, and it’s been several weeks since I’ve had to clean any screens.
As for oil life, there’s an oil analysis lab at work and that removes all guesswork and speculation about the oil life. Also, if you have dust getting into your oil, there’s something wrong lol.

 

I use full synthetic changed every 5k miles, and filter every OTHER oil change.

it's more complicated if acquiring a used car, they are more often then not neglected on the fluids (especially transmission, coolant, and rear diff).

 

Hi! I am looking to buy a Honda Element and reading here there are many many posts about the P2646 code with the oil pressure switch and going into limp mode. I've seen these for the 2003-2006 generation Element, but haven't yet seen a post mentioning the problem in later Elements (2007 on) when the motor changed (10 more hp, etc).

Is this a problem that I just haven't seen yet a post for the later Elements? Or is this a problem that was mostly solved?

Thanks all!

Mark

Mark, everyone always points to the oil screens (which CAN cause a pressure drop and prevent the VTEC from kicking in), but this typically isn't the problem if you have taken care of your engine.
These engines put off a lot of heat AND the engine bay design allows moisture to splash up from underneath, particularly on the backside of the engine.
Now, the VTEC sensor is right on the back of the engine behind the valve cover, and - over time - the insulation on the sensor wires starts to pull away from the rubber grommet on the plastic connector to the sensor, leaving the two wires slightly exposed. If any moisture from the road splashes up into the engine bay and hits the sensor, it will short circuit the pressure sensor and prevent the VTEC from kicking in. It's almost impossible to see the problem with the wire insulation due to the location of the sensor and the limited range allowed by the harness, but I presume it is the cause of most of the error codes Element owners see. I finally got an E 5 years ago, and was chasing the problem for a year before I put 2 and 2 together and realized I only had the problems after drives in the rain - splicing in a new connector (with attached wire pigtails) fixed everything for me.
I wonder if we see more issues with the earlier models since they have seen - typically - more heat/time/exposure, causing more issues with the wire insulation.

 

I’m waiting for another good rain to confirm but so far I am pointing to my issue as an electrical one as well. I did get a good look at my contractors and they were not water tight at the top where the wires enter in. Unlike you though, I did not splice in new connectors. Instead I tried to seal the top using hot glue (I would have used silicon but I didn’t have any on hand). I also put dielectric grease in the plug as well. So far with just wet roads I haven’t had any issues and my p2646 cel cleared itself after driving to work after doing the above.

Mark, everyone always points to the oil screens (which CAN cause a pressure drop and prevent the VTEC from kicking in), but this typically isn't the problem if you have taken care of your engine.
These engines put off a lot of heat AND the engine bay design allows moisture to splash up from underneath, particularly on the backside of the engine.
Now, the VTEC sensor is right on the back of the engine behind the valve cover, and - over time - the insulation on the sensor wires starts to pull away from the rubber grommet on the plastic connector to the sensor, leaving the two wires slightly exposed. If any moisture from the road splashes up into the engine bay and hits the sensor, it will short circuit the pressure sensor and prevent the VTEC from kicking in. It's almost impossible to see the problem with the wire insulation due to the location of the sensor and the limited range allowed by the harness, but I presume it is the cause of most of the error codes Element owners see. I finally got an E 5 years ago, and was chasing the problem for a year before I put 2 and 2 together and realized I only had the problems after drives in the rain - splicing in a new connector (with attached wire pigtails) fixed everything for me.
I wonder if we see more issues with the earlier models since they have seen - typically - more heat/time/exposure, causing more issues with the wire insulation.

 

For me, I’d change the oil and filter. Replace/clean the two screens and clean the electrical connectors with electrical connector cleaner then add the dielectric grease.

Personally I don’t clear the codes as I want to know if the problem has been resolved or not.

Congrats on your new element!

 

I wouldn't go right to Xw40 oil (I know my problem is low oil pressure). Do all the other things first to get your system to operate the way it is supposed to.

 

Here's the clean 2005 Element EX I just brought home. Hoping to get the P2646 squared away and then I will be super happy!

 

Here's the clean 2005 Element EX I just brought home. Hoping to get the P2646 squared away and then I will be super happy!
View attachment 213260

See Honda bulletin for this code attached.

 

ALWAYS USE OEM VTEC SOLENOID PARTS AND ASSEMBLIES, "ALWAYS "....