Greetings!

I finally took the plunge after looking at Elements on and off for years. I'm in the Northeast region, and I was so afraid of rusty samples and rising prices that I had given up looking.

Then, a friend who is a dealer 2000 miles away reached out about a rust-free Texas car, and I ultimately had him ship the car to me. It has 177k on the odometer, and has had 3 previous owners:

View attachment 231311

It has some blemishes, like a rip in the driver's seat, and a hole on the front bumper cover. I hope to take care of those eventually.

It arrived at my doorstep just yesterday.

The first order of business was adding in the keyless remote module under the dash, followed by taking care of the sagging hatch with the slightly longer Strongarm 4351 struts:

View attachment 231310

Then, I got rid of the Single-DIN factory AM/FM CD Player with a $50 Woot special, the Nakamichi NAM3510-M7 double-din head unit. By the time I finished the install, I ran out of daylight, so I only have this picture to share for now:

View attachment 231312

I used the American International HON-K834 stereo install kit.

I have some additional plans for it, like 18-inch Acura RDX wheels. Stay tuned!

Very nice! Manual or auto transmission? I have an 04 in orange also. MT AWD. Can’t wait to see the wheels!

 

It's an auto..


Thank you, it's an auto.

It arrived a little rougher than expected.

The door checkers for both doors are dead, 13 bulbs were burned out, and the front inner fender liners are mostly missing (LOL). Oh, and it showed up with a missing lug nut, and that particular wheel stud's threads will need a thread chaser.

The power mirror switch had a bunch of bent pins, so the connector for it would not lock into place. It worked once I bent the pins back

It passed the my state safety inspection this morning, but I still need to triage the noticeable clunks when it goes over bumps, and there's also an oil leak to track down....

 

Greetings!

I finally took the plunge after looking at Elements on and off for years. I'm in the Northeast region, and I was so afraid of rusty samples and rising prices that I had given up looking.

Then, a friend who is a dealer 2000 miles away reached out about a rust-free Texas car, and I ultimately had him ship the car to me. It has 177k on the odometer, and has had 3 previous owners:

View attachment 231311

It has some blemishes, like a rip in the driver's seat, and a hole on the front bumper cover. I hope to take care of those eventually.

It arrived at my doorstep just yesterday.

The first order of business was adding in the keyless remote module under the dash, followed by taking care of the sagging hatch with the slightly longer Strongarm 4351 struts:

View attachment 231310

Then, I got rid of the Single-DIN factory AM/FM CD Player with a $50 Woot special, the Nakamichi NAM3510-M7 double-din head unit. By the time I finished the install, I ran out of daylight, so I only have this picture to share for now:

View attachment 231312

I used the American International HON-K834 stereo install kit.

I have some additional plans for it, like 18-inch Acura RDX wheels. Stay tuned!

Welcome! Congratulations!

 

Love that colour, welcome to the forum

 

congrats!
would love to see and learn more about your stereo install

 

Sure, but be advised that mine is the LX trim, so I didn't have to worry about retaining steering wheel volume controls, or XM radio, or the subwoofer, the aux jack, etc etc.

For an LX, this is a basic head unit install. A single DIN+DIN pocket was the old setup:

If you look, you'll see that the factory deck is slightly recessed in the radio cavity. My preference would have been to have the new radio either sitting flush with the rest of the dash, or similarly recessed. What I didn't want was to have the new radio or the trim ring around it sticking past the dash. Here are some examples of a double-DIN aftermarket radio sticking out:

To me, that doesn't look good, because it's sticking out on top and is recessed on the bottom.

The Amazon reviews for the Metra kit (Metra 95-7863) mentioned this possibility, so I looked for the American International HON-K834 kit instead, which apparently has been discontinued, but you can still find them on eBay.

Online reviews for the HON-K834 kit with pictures showed a better looking fit:

For the radio harness, I went with the ubiquitous Metra 70-1721, which is a common Honda/Acura application that uses the industry-standard color-coded wires, like yellow for 12V switched, red for 12V constant, blue for power antenna, etc etc:

The head unit is a Nakamichi NAM3510-M7 which offers a wired apple car play/android auto connection:

Nakamichi 7" 2-DIN Android, Apple CarPlay Car Screen (NAM3510-M7)

Nakamichi 7" 2-DIN Android, Apple CarPlay Car Screen (NAM3510-M7)

electronics.woot.com

It also comes with a wiring harness that uses the same color code as the Metra harness above, so it was just a matter of matching up the wires and then using heat-shrink wrap.

4 pairs of wires for the speakers, one for 12v switched, one for 12v constant, 1 for ground, and 1 for the amplified antenna.

You can either try to remove just the trim piece around the radio to expose the 4 mounting screws like these guys here:

...Or you could remove the enter hvac console like this guy here:

Here's a picture of the Nakamichi in daylight:

To be perfectly honest, I don't love how the trim piece is bowed in some places.

In hindsight, maybe I should have gone with the Xscorpion HON-K0711DD install kit on ebay which is only $13. I still might:

Double DIN Installation Stereo Dash Kit for 2007-2011 Honda Element | eBay

CUSTOM DASH INSTALLATION KIT. THIS INSTALLATION KIT IS ALSO COMPATIBLE WITH OTHER VEHICLES. ADD AN ANTENNA AND HARNESS TO YOUR KIT. COPY AND PASTE LINK BELOW. Top Quality.

www.ebay.com

Some promising pictures are here:

https://www.elementownersclub.com/threads/double-din-bracket-that-can-mount-flush.159025/

 

Sure, but be advised that mine is the LX trim, so I didn't have to worry about retaining steering wheel volume controls, or XM radio, or the subwoofer, the aux jack, etc etc.

For an LX, this is a basic head unit install. A single DIN+DIN pocket was the old setup:

View attachment 231331

If you look, you'll see that the factory deck is slightly recessed in the radio cavity. My preference would have been to have the new radio either sitting flush with the rest of the dash, or similarly recessed. What I didn't want was to have the new radio or the trim ring around it sticking past the dash. Here are some examples of a double-DIN aftermarket radio sticking out:

View attachment 231332
View attachment 231333

To me, that doesn't look good, because it's sticking out on top and is recessed on the bottom.

The Amazon reviews for the Metra kit (Metra 95-7863) mentioned this possibility, so I looked for the American International HON-K834 kit instead, which apparently has been discontinued, but you can still find them on eBay.

Online reviews for the HON-K834 kit with pictures showed a better looking fit:

View attachment 231334
View attachment 231335

For the radio harness, I went with the ubiquitous Metra 70-1721, which is a common Honda/Acura application that uses the industry-standard color-coded wires, like yellow for 12V switched, red for 12V constant, blue for power antenna, etc etc:

View attachment 231336

The head unit is a Nakamichi NAM3510-M7 which offers a wired apple car play/android auto connection:

Nakamichi 7" 2-DIN Android, Apple CarPlay Car Screen (NAM3510-M7)

Nakamichi 7" 2-DIN Android, Apple CarPlay Car Screen (NAM3510-M7)

electronics.woot.com

It also comes with a wiring harness that uses the same color code as the Metra harness above, so it was just a matter of matching up the wires and then using heat-shrink wrap.

View attachment 231337

4 pairs of wires for the speakers, one for 12v switched, one for 12v constant, 1 for ground, and 1 for the amplified antenna.

You can either try to remove just the trim piece around the radio to expose the 4 mounting screws like these guys here:

...Or you could remove the enter hvac console like this guy here:

Here's a picture of the Nakamichi in daylight:

View attachment 231338

To be perfectly honest, I don't love how the trim piece is bowed in some places.

In hindsight, maybe I should have gone with the Xscorpion HON-K0711DD install kit on ebay which is only $13. I still might:

Double DIN Installation Stereo Dash Kit for 2007-2011 Honda Element | eBay

CUSTOM DASH INSTALLATION KIT. THIS INSTALLATION KIT IS ALSO COMPATIBLE WITH OTHER VEHICLES. ADD AN ANTENNA AND HARNESS TO YOUR KIT. COPY AND PASTE LINK BELOW. Top Quality.

www.ebay.com

Some promising pictures are here:

https://www.elementownersclub.com/threads/double-din-bracket-that-can-mount-flush.159025/

Good tips on the double DIN kit. I will keep that in mind later if I go to a Double DIN head unit.

 

Really informative thread.

 

Sure, but be advised that mine is the LX trim, so I didn't have to worry about retaining steering wheel volume controls, or XM radio, or the subwoofer, the aux jack, etc etc.

For an LX, this is a basic head unit install. A single DIN+DIN pocket was the old setup:

View attachment 231331

If you look, you'll see that the factory deck is slightly recessed in the radio cavity. My preference would have been to have the new radio either sitting flush with the rest of the dash, or similarly recessed. What I didn't want was to have the new radio or the trim ring around it sticking past the dash. Here are some examples of a double-DIN aftermarket radio sticking out:

View attachment 231332
View attachment 231333

To me, that doesn't look good, because it's sticking out on top and is recessed on the bottom.

The Amazon reviews for the Metra kit (Metra 95-7863) mentioned this possibility, so I looked for the American International HON-K834 kit instead, which apparently has been discontinued, but you can still find them on eBay.

Online reviews for the HON-K834 kit with pictures showed a better looking fit:

View attachment 231334
View attachment 231335

For the radio harness, I went with the ubiquitous Metra 70-1721, which is a common Honda/Acura application that uses the industry-standard color-coded wires, like yellow for 12V switched, red for 12V constant, blue for power antenna, etc etc:

View attachment 231336

The head unit is a Nakamichi NAM3510-M7 which offers a wired apple car play/android auto connection:

http://[URL]https://electronics.woo...s.woot.com/offers/nakamichi-7-2-din-android-apple-carplay-car-screen-nam3510-m7

[/URL]

It also comes with a wiring harness that uses the same color code as the Metra harness above, so it was just a matter of matching up the wires and then using heat-shrink wrap.

View attachment 231337

4 pairs of wires for the speakers, one for 12v switched, one for 12v constant, 1 for ground, and 1 for the amplified antenna.

You can either try to remove just the trim piece around the radio to expose the 4 mounting screws like these guys here:

...Or you could remove the enter hvac console like this guy here:

Here's a picture of the Nakamichi in daylight:

View attachment 231338

To be perfectly honest, I don't love how the trim piece is bowed in some places.

In hindsight, maybe I should have gone with the Xscorpion HON-K0711DD install kit on ebay which is only $13. I still might:

http://[URL]https://www.ebay.com/itm/152089647436

[/URL]

Some promising pictures are here:

https://www.elementownersclub.com/threads/double-din-bracket-that-can-mount-flush.159025/

very

Sure, but be advised that mine is the LX trim, so I didn't have to worry about retaining steering wheel volume controls, or XM radio, or the subwoofer, the aux jack, etc etc.

For an LX, this is a basic head unit install. A single DIN+DIN pocket was the old setup:

View attachment 231331

If you look, you'll see that the factory deck is slightly recessed in the radio cavity. My preference would have been to have the new radio either sitting flush with the rest of the dash, or similarly recessed. What I didn't want was to have the new radio or the trim ring around it sticking past the dash. Here are some examples of a double-DIN aftermarket radio sticking out:

View attachment 231332
View attachment 231333

To me, that doesn't look good, because it's sticking out on top and is recessed on the bottom.

The Amazon reviews for the Metra kit (Metra 95-7863) mentioned this possibility, so I looked for the American International HON-K834 kit instead, which apparently has been discontinued, but you can still find them on eBay.

Online reviews for the HON-K834 kit with pictures showed a better looking fit:

View attachment 231334
View attachment 231335

For the radio harness, I went with the ubiquitous Metra 70-1721, which is a common Honda/Acura application that uses the industry-standard color-coded wires, like yellow for 12V switched, red for 12V constant, blue for power antenna, etc etc:

View attachment 231336

The head unit is a Nakamichi NAM3510-M7 which offers a wired apple car play/android auto connection:

Nakamichi 7" 2-DIN Android, Apple CarPlay Car Screen (NAM3510-M7)

Nakamichi 7" 2-DIN Android, Apple CarPlay Car Screen (NAM3510-M7)

electronics.woot.com

It also comes with a wiring harness that uses the same color code as the Metra harness above, so it was just a matter of matching up the wires and then using heat-shrink wrap.

View attachment 231337

4 pairs of wires for the speakers, one for 12v switched, one for 12v constant, 1 for ground, and 1 for the amplified antenna.

You can either try to remove just the trim piece around the radio to expose the 4 mounting screws like these guys here:

...Or you could remove the enter hvac console like this guy here:

Here's a picture of the Nakamichi in daylight:

View attachment 231338

To be perfectly honest, I don't love how the trim piece is bowed in some places.

In hindsight, maybe I should have gone with the Xscorpion HON-K0711DD install kit on ebay which is only $13. I still might:

Double DIN Installation Stereo Dash Kit for 2007-2011 Honda Element | eBay

CUSTOM DASH INSTALLATION KIT. THIS INSTALLATION KIT IS ALSO COMPATIBLE WITH OTHER VEHICLES. ADD AN ANTENNA AND HARNESS TO YOUR KIT. COPY AND PASTE LINK BELOW. Top Quality.

www.ebay.com

Some promising pictures are here:

https://www.elementownersclub.com/threads/double-din-bracket-that-can-mount-flush.159025/

wow, very comprehensive post.
I'm grateful.
my main issues would be the aesthetics, (making it look as factory as possible), but also want to include dashcam and backup cam, and I have an Ex with steering controls.

I definitely bookmarked this post.
again, many thanks!

 

After years of owning cars with nice factory leather-wrapped steering wheels, having to touch this LX vinyl wheel that's worn and noticeably sticky to the touch was a bit of a drag.

I decided to try a $16 leather steering wrap from Amazon that had pretty good reviews (4.5/5 stars, 640 reviews).

The instructions say to expect 3 hours for this job, and that's probably accurate (there's a bit of a learning curve).

I didn't love the factory instructions of using the pre-existing stiching on the wrap to pull the ends together (the stitching isn't that robust), so I used a different method outlined here:

Here's the finished product:

 

Looks good but if you come across an OEM Honda Pilot leather steering wheel for sale, grab it. I had one of those Wheelskins stitch on ones and it was fine at first but wore out much faster than I expected.

Got a Pilot leather one and I must say the OEM kicks butt. Better quality, feel, longevity and the leather covers the spokes as well. Not too bad to install either.

I also hated the feel of the original plastic steering wheel, too slippery and the rim was too thin.

 

Yes, I am still on the lookout for a better factory wheel. I have swapped a few steering wheels over the years on previous cars I've owned. This one wasn't gummy, but it had nearly worn down to the foam under the vinyl and it was just gross:

 

I haven't driven this car a whole lot since it was dropped at my house 6 days ago, but I did notice quite a few interior bulbs don't come on.

Interior bulbs that are dead:

Hazard light button
Recirc button
Shifter position indicator bulb by the shifter knob
Fan speed knob

The hazard light button bulb appears to be a Neo-Wedge T1 bulb. Which was great news for me, because I bought a 50-pack from Mouser Electronics way back in the day for 50 cents apiece. I probably still have at least 30 of them left:

MFG: JKL Components
Part number: CNW1-23

The recirc button bulb is also a Neo-Wedge T1 bulb, but with a long stem:

My bulbs from Mouser does work as a replacement for the recirc button even if it doesn't have the long base, but I think I'd eventually like to reuse the old bulb's base by buying a 10-pack of 7219 bulbs:

Source:

https://www.elementownersclub.com/posts/1781663/

The bulbs for the knobs appear to use a T4 neo-wedge base, but again with a long stem:


I had a 1-pack of stubby T4 neo-wedge bulbs that were suitable:

The only replacement bulb I didn't have in hand was the shifter indicator bulb next to the shifter knob's accordion piece, but it looks like you can use a generic Sylvania 2721 bulb, which sells for $6 on Amazon for a 2-pack. Amazon will deliver it to me by Sunday.

For now, this will have to do.

What it basically looked like before:

Versus how it looks now:

 

I gotta change my hazard button light too. Called the dealer today, was $7 Canadian plus tax and four days away. Going to look for the T1 bulb, thanks

 

A sneak preview of a near-future upgrade once the weather is nicer:

A local junkyard had a 2008 TSX in their self-service yard. I was racing against the clock to remove these before the yard closed, and those 17mm caliper bracket bolts were a bear to remove with just a 12-inch ratchet, but I was eventually successful.

It's my understanding that the TSX uses 300mm rotors while the Element uses 282mm rotors. Additionally, the calipers themselves are noticeably larger:

 

To the clunks in the suspension. First step is swaybar bushing. Less than $20 in parts 30 minute fix. But after that, it's more than likely going to need new control arms in the front. It's the first failure point in the Honda Element suspension

 

I'll check out the sway bar bushings and the control arms, thank you.

The Sylvania 2721 bulb arrived today, and now I can see which gear the car in in at night again, which is always a plus.

I also realized that the cruise control button and the VSA off button also had burned out bulbs.

Thankfully, both of them also take T1 neo-wedge bulbs, provided that you reuse the green bulb covers:

A trip to a different junkyard today yielded a nice leather steering wheel from a Honda Pilot EX-L:

 

I'll check out the sway bar bushings and the control arms, thank you.

The Sylvania 2721 bulb arrived today, and now I can see which gear the car in in at night again, which is always a plus.

I also realized that the cruise control button and the VSA off button also had burned out bulbs.

Thankfully, both of them also take T1 neo-wedge bulbs, provided that you reuse the green bulb covers:

View attachment 231427

A trip to a different junkyard today yielded a nice leather steering wheel from a Honda Pilot EX-L:

View attachment 231428

Nice, you found a decent leather Pilot wheel

I went to multiple scrap yards looking for one and went through over two dozen Pilots and all of them were damaged, some were covered up with steering wheel covers but underneath the leather was worn out, scratched up, ripped etc.

A hard item to come by in really good condition

 

This yard in particular had 15 Honda Pilots from 2004-2008, 10 of which were EX or EX-Ls. It looks like the LX trim or the VP trim didn't come with leather wheels.

Unfortunately, the cars were all scattered across the self-serve facility, and I wasn't going to look at them all. I was going to pull the first good wheel.

Even more unfortunate is how the junkyard intentionally cut up the airbag cover with a rotary tool before placing their cars in the self-service yard (probably to discourage people from buying airbags). The problem with that approach is that sometimes, the tool's blade hits the steering wheel as well as the airbag. At least one of the leather steering wheels had additional damage incurred by this method.

I probably looked at 6 of the EX or EX-L specimens before I pulled this wheel from a 2008 EX-L. I also snagged a variable intermittent wiper stalk from the same car.

 

This yard in particular had 15 Honda Pilots from 2004-2008, 10 of which were EX or EX-Ls. It looks like the LX trim or the VP trim didn't come with leather wheels.

Unfortunately, the cars were all scattered across the self-serve facility, and I wasn't going to look at them all. I was going to pull the first good wheel.

Unfortunately, they intentionally cut up the airbag cover with a rotary tool before placing a car in the yard (probably to discourage people from buying airbags. The problem with that approach is that sometimes, the tool's blade hits the steering wheel as well as the airbag. At least one of the leather steering wheels had additional damage incurred by this method.

I probably looked at 6 of the EX or EX-L specimens before I pulled this wheel from a 2008 EX-L. I also snagged a variable intermittent wiper stalk from the same car.

Unfortunately yeah they can be damaged by the wrecking yard as well. I did see that problem at all of my local wreckers too. Glad you were able to find a decent leather wheel, rare part these days...

 

The chipping sun-damaged trim piece around the speedometer cluster was so brittle that it shattered into a thousand tiny pieces when I tried to remove it this past weekend:

I paid a princely sum, but a replacement piece was sourced, and it looks so much better:

 

I had my first real chance to go underneath the car this morning.

I found a very out of place metal rod that ran from the rear bumper to the left side of the sway bar:

Why it was there, I have no idea. I removed it. Then, I went to work on those rear sway bar bushings. Yes, they were pretty much toast:

The front ones weren't that much better:

It was rather nice being able to just zip the bolts off.

While I was underneath the car, I tried removing the connector for the knock sensor. It may have been just loose, because the CEL for it went off on its own after I reconnected it.

 

Woah! Such an informative thread!

 

A few more things were accomplished during the week.

First, I was not a big fan of the aftermarket tint, especially on the front windows. Look at how dark the windows are here:

Legal tint in my state is 35% or higher, and I was a bit surprised that the car passed the state inspection with the tint.

A few minutes with a razor blade and some glass cleaner later:

TBD whether I keep the tint on the remaining windows. I don't think the Element has great rear visibility to begin with, and it's actually pretty difficult to see out of the rear glass at night.

Next up is the atrocious driver's seat:

I found a salvage yard 50 miles from me that was parting out a 2008 LX. Other than missing the height adjustment knob, the salvage yard seat is in better condition. I brought it home earlier today. It'll need a good cleaning before I install it (the pic below is from the salvage yard):

Next next up is the inoperative front dome light. Mine has a burned out contact. There are many suitable replacements to choose from on eBay.

 

A few more things were accomplished during the week.

First, I was not a big fan of the aftermarket tint, especially on the front windows. Look at how dark the windows are here:

View attachment 231508


Legal tint in my state is 35% or higher, and I was a bit surprised that the car passed the state inspection with the tint.

A few minutes with a razor blade and some glass cleaner later:

View attachment 231509

TBD whether I keep the tint on the remaining windows. I don't think the Element has great rear visibility to begin with, and it's actually pretty difficult to see out of the rear glass at night.

Next up is the atrocious driver's seat:

View attachment 231510

I found a salvage yard 50 miles from me that was parting out a 2008 LX. Other than missing the height adjustment knob, the salvage yard seat is in better condition. I brought it home earlier today. It'll need a good cleaning before I install it (the pic below is from the salvage yard):

View attachment 231511

Next next up is the inoperative front dome light. Mine has a burned out contact. There are many suitable replacements to choose from on eBay.

You can swap over the height adjustment knob , you just have to pry off the center cover in the middle of the knobs face and get a screwdriver in there to pry off the spring loaded C shaped retainer clip and the knob will slide right off the peg. Alot of people break the knob trying to yank it off without first removing the spring clip

 

Thanks for confirming, I had watched a youtube video earlier today that basically outlined the same steps, so I'm familiar with what to do.

 

I got sick of not having a working front dome light, so I finally removed it to see what was wrong. It became pretty obvious what was wrong:

Thankfully, the junkyard I have been going to has been a godsend. There was a 2007 4WD LX that just came in to the yard less than a week ago that had a good dome light along with a pre-installed LED bulb. I'm sorry I don't have a good picture, but it's nice to have a working dome light again:

Look at that little dome light with the LED go:

The same car at the junkyard also yielded some roof rack goodies:

A pair of 53-inch Thule AeroBlade bars (ARB53). Someone got there before me and yoinked all 4 of the endcaps, but those endcaps are still available new, and they've been ordered.
A set of four Thule Rapid Podium Foot Packs (460R), missing 2 of the end caps. I have a suitable set of 4 endcaps that have "Mitsubishi" logos.

Most importantly, it has a mostly complete Thule Fit Kit 3109, made specifically for the Honda Element that was discontinued years ago. It's missing 2 of the nuts and one of the studs is a bit rusty, but I should be able to clean up that stud with a wire wheel.

Lastly, the same car also yielded nicer passenger side dash trim pieces:

Compared to what the old pieces looked like, this is a big upgrade:

I keep finding various trim pieces that are either broken or flat out missing on my car. I might have to go back next weekend too.

 

I got sick of not having a working front dome light, so I finally removed it to see what was wrong. It became pretty obvious what was wrong:

View attachment 231556

Thankfully, the junkyard I have been going to has been a godsend. There was a 2007 4WD LX that just came in to the yard less than a week ago that had a good dome light along with a pre-installed LED bulb. I'm sorry I don't have a good picture, but it's nice to have a working dome light again:

View attachment 231557

The same car at the junkyard also yielded some roof rack goodies:

View attachment 231558


A pair of 53-inch Thule AeroBlade bars. Someone got there before me and yoinked all 4 of the endcaps, but those endcaps are still available new.
A set of four Thule Rapid Podium Foot Packs (460R), missing 2 of the end caps. I think I have a suitable set of 4 endcaps that have "Mitsubishi" logos.

Most importantly, it has a mostly complete Thule Fit Kit 3109, made specifically for the Honda Element but discontinued. It's missing 2 of the nuts and one of the studs is a bit rusty, but I should be able to clean up that stud with a wire wheel.

Lastly, the same car also yielded nicer passenger side dash trim pieces:

View attachment 231559

Compared to what the old pieces looked like, this is a big upgrade:

View attachment 231560

I keep finding various trim pieces that are either broken or flat out missing on my car. I might have to go back next weekend too.

So jealous of everyone that lives near a junk yard lol

 

While examining the inoperative fender side marker bulbs, it turned out that the pigtail for the driver's side was missing entirely, as if it had been yanked out.

I ended up scavenging an 18" section of the wiring from a junkyard car, and I tapped into the turn signal circuit. I went with this method because the turn signal wiring is easily accessible from the engine bay, and the wires are color-coded the same way (red to red, black to black). I had some fancy 3M Scotchlok UB2A IDC Tap Connectors left over from a previous project, so that's what I went with. They are gel-filled to keep moisture out:

After that, it was just a matter of snaking the new wire to where the side marker is. I added a new bulb while I was at it:

Of the 13 dead bulbs that this car arrived with, this was the last one to be replaced. The other ones were:

(2) license plate bulbs
(2) side marker bulbs
(2) front turn signal bulbs
(2) cruise control button
(1) VSA button
(1) hvac knob
(1) hvac button
(1) shifter panel
(1) hazard light button

 

I wanted to swap out the battered rear bumper insert:

But, I liked the color-coded look of the black insert instead:

https://www.elementownersclub.com/threads/how-to-change-the-light-gray-rear-bumper-black.175818/?post_id=1792354#post-1792354

It would have been a somewhat difficult job due to the trailer hitch in the way, but it turns out a few of the body clips were missing, so it wasn't so bad after all. The old gray one had a hole in it, for starters

 

More small victories today:

The door seal on the driver's side rear door was in rough shape. Not only was it an eyesore every time I opened the door, it also made the driver's door close a bit wonky:

A 2007 LX AWD with 325k(!) at a junkyard continues to serve as a donor:

Next up, the original vinyl-covered visors were delaminating. I found a pair from a 2005 EX that is covered in cloth (and they have the extensions). MUCH better looking than the originals:

I also addressed a whole bunch of missing trim pieces:

Aahhh, so much better: