Hi, my oil light and b1 indicator light went on. My 08 element has approx. 10,000 miles on it. The honda dealership changed the oil and said they could do the b1 service for $210.00 + tax . I was wondering if anyone else did the b1 service at 10,000 miles and is it worth doing and what do they actually do ? They told me they change the cabin filter, rotate tires, add some kind of fluid cleaner and mostly just do some inspecting. Thanks
zeb
See your owners manual probably around pg 185: http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/OM/CW0707/CW0707O00184A.pdf
The inspection should be free with service. I've paid about $50 at the dealer for an oil change and tire rotation before but, now I just do that myself. The inspecting is mostly visual anyways.
So what extra stuff are they doing for the extra $150?
BTW An A service is just an oil change. I always do the B service even if it says A.
The inspection should be free with service. I've paid about $50 at the dealer for an oil change and tire rotation before but, now I just do that myself. The inspecting is mostly visual anyways.
So what extra stuff are they doing for the extra $150?
BTW An A service is just an oil change. I always do the B service even if it says A.
I just had mine done in July. I have 12000 on the truck. I was $130 for the service. My dealer is Lisle Auto Plaza in Lisle IL.
This is what they had on the invoice:
Oil change
Brake inspection Pad & Shoes they have how much (%) I have left on my brake pads
Inspect Hoses & lines
Inspect Drive shaft boots and joints
Fluids
Exhaust check
Check Suspension
tire wear
multi point inspection
rotate tires ( I took a pen and marked my rims on the back to see if they get to the front! They did!)
battery load test
car wash
A ride to my house and they picked me up when the truck was ready.(They were busy that day)
I used my 15% off coupon and it cost me $106.01 out the door. Ask them for a print out with the breakdown of the service and the cost. I think there padding the invoice. I don't think the cabin filter is in the B1 service. Do the filter yourself and ask them how much that will save. I haven't change mine. I don't think it needs it yet. What is the fluid cleaner for? If its the engine you don't need it. I would bust their chops about the cost and tell them about Lisle!
I'm in the suburbs of Chicago and if they don't get you to about $150 out the door I would ask for the manager give him the chance to keep your business and tell him that your doing so! If he won't do it! Find another dealer and let the manager know that your calling Honda about this invoice padding and before you leave ask him "What was your name again?" ask him for a pen and paper and write it down in front of him. ;-) You may get the filter and the cleaner for free before you get the pen & paper!
If they suggestive sell the filter and the cleaner thats different you can say no. If they say that is included I would say there padding the invoice. Call em on it! ( I can be a pain in the a** sometimes but that comes from places trying to screw me!) Call Lisle and ask them about the B1 service.
Service:
877-723-8282
This is what they had on the invoice:
Oil change
Brake inspection Pad & Shoes they have how much (%) I have left on my brake pads
Inspect Hoses & lines
Inspect Drive shaft boots and joints
Fluids
Exhaust check
Check Suspension
tire wear
multi point inspection
rotate tires ( I took a pen and marked my rims on the back to see if they get to the front! They did!)
battery load test
car wash
A ride to my house and they picked me up when the truck was ready.(They were busy that day)
I used my 15% off coupon and it cost me $106.01 out the door. Ask them for a print out with the breakdown of the service and the cost. I think there padding the invoice. I don't think the cabin filter is in the B1 service. Do the filter yourself and ask them how much that will save. I haven't change mine. I don't think it needs it yet. What is the fluid cleaner for? If its the engine you don't need it. I would bust their chops about the cost and tell them about Lisle!
I'm in the suburbs of Chicago and if they don't get you to about $150 out the door I would ask for the manager give him the chance to keep your business and tell him that your doing so! If he won't do it! Find another dealer and let the manager know that your calling Honda about this invoice padding and before you leave ask him "What was your name again?" ask him for a pen and paper and write it down in front of him. ;-) You may get the filter and the cleaner for free before you get the pen & paper!
If they suggestive sell the filter and the cleaner thats different you can say no. If they say that is included I would say there padding the invoice. Call em on it! ( I can be a pain in the a** sometimes but that comes from places trying to screw me!) Call Lisle and ask them about the B1 service.
Service:
877-723-8282
Yet another reason not to live in Chicago... They wanted 150 to look at somethings on the car, change the oil and filter, rotate the tires and give you a car wash. Based on local pricing I hope that was one really awesome car wash b/c the last time I was in a dealer for this service, the inspection was free.
Once you are out of the warranty time frame, you might want to watch out. If they tell you that your muffler bearing is loose, I'd run and fast.
Once you are out of the warranty time frame, you might want to watch out. If they tell you that your muffler bearing is loose, I'd run and fast.
What is the cost at your dealer for a B1 service in FL?
Chicagoland area is one of the best places in the country. At least west of the city. Daley is nuts!!
Chicagoland area is one of the best places in the country. At least west of the city. Daley is nuts!!
I am sure several of the posters here are mechanics, I personally would not make such a blatant statement. Often line mechanics don't even touch vehicles which are getting LOF and rotate and balances. Typically they just come over and do the inspection, also I can pretty much guarantee they do it. Its how they make money, if they don't find something wrong they don't any make money other then the small amount of time they get paid to do the inspection. The inspections are not rocket science, but they do require the tools and experience to know were to look for problems.
Now that said, having worked a dealership for about a decade there are people whom I would not trust, and those are the people in the sales dept, particularly used.
Chris
Now that said, having worked a dealership for about a decade there are people whom I would not trust, and those are the people in the sales dept, particularly used.
Chris
I am sure some things have changed in the few years I haven been away from dealerships, but I can say for certain that very very few dealers survive by the sales of new cars. They don't sell anything below what they paid for it ever, they may receive incentives to get ride of old stock on the lot but never less then they have into it. Selling below "invoice" is a con, they never will tell you what they paid.
As for the back end of a shop the parts department almost always pays the bills for the dealership, I worked at 3 different dealerships and that was always the case. The profit center was service and used car sales, best incentives for sales people were on used cars, and the techs, and service writers got there money from service work. Not as much from warranty but a majority of the work done is warranty typically it pays half the rate that book would quote out to charge a customer. Most line techs are flat rate, parts people are commission&hourly pay, writers and managers are paid off several factors mainly based on what that particular dealership chooses to do. While i worked through several dry times during the years were we would sell maybe 10 cars in a month that would not even pay for the office staff and sales peoples salaries for the month. Best margin I can remeber was around 17% profit for a month but it was more typically around 5-7% and some times there were no commission checks( i worked in parts).
As for a mechanic getting bonus that did not happen to often only when they found things wrong and managed to sell them.
Chris
As for the back end of a shop the parts department almost always pays the bills for the dealership, I worked at 3 different dealerships and that was always the case. The profit center was service and used car sales, best incentives for sales people were on used cars, and the techs, and service writers got there money from service work. Not as much from warranty but a majority of the work done is warranty typically it pays half the rate that book would quote out to charge a customer. Most line techs are flat rate, parts people are commission&hourly pay, writers and managers are paid off several factors mainly based on what that particular dealership chooses to do. While i worked through several dry times during the years were we would sell maybe 10 cars in a month that would not even pay for the office staff and sales peoples salaries for the month. Best margin I can remeber was around 17% profit for a month but it was more typically around 5-7% and some times there were no commission checks( i worked in parts).
As for a mechanic getting bonus that did not happen to often only when they found things wrong and managed to sell them.
Chris
Just did my "B1" service at dealer at around 12500 miles. Actually I choose to just do a oil change for $36.82 included parts, hour, misc charge, & tax. I walk in & asked for oil change, they did not even recommend any "B1" service after seen B1 lights up on the minder.
Below is in the report included in the oil change at dealer. Personally, I really don't think there is any additional need to perform "B1" service. I know list below is part of generic check list for oil change, but IMHO, if they are not doing a good job inspect for oil change, how do I know they will be doing a good job inspect for "B1" service, which I have to pay more just for inspection?
By the way, this oil change in this dealer take approx. 1 hour in the shop.
- Oil & oil filter change.
- Inspect/measure all 4 tires tread depth & reports each tire's remaining depth.
- Check & set tire pressure.
- Inspect front axle CV joints and boots
- Check front differential for leaks
- Check power steering system for leaks
- Check automatic transmission for leaks
- Inspect cooling system hoses
- Check engine oil level/condition (I guess after they change oil?)
- Check automatic transmission fluid level and condition
- Inspect rear axle CV joints and boots
- Check rear axle seals for leaks
- Inspect battery terminals/cables
- Inspect heater hoses
- Check engine coolant level/condition
- Inspect windshield wiper blades
- Check front axle seals for leaks
- Check rear differential for leaks
- Check cooling system for leaks
- Inspect accessory drive belts
- Check power steering fluid level/condition
- Check hazard light operation
- Check brake light operation
- Inspect SRS diagnostic system (SRS warning light)
- Check windshield washer fluid level/condition
- Check tie-rod ends
- Inspect front shocks and struts; check operation
- Inspect automatic transmission mounts for damages
- Inspect overall condition (all tires)
- Check back-up light operation
- Inspect onboard diagnostic system (check engine light)
- Check headlight and bright beam
- Check front sway-bar links and bushings
- Inspect rear shocks and struts; check operation
- Battery test results
- Check taillight, turn signal, side marker, and license plate lights
- Inspect u-joints and driveline slip-joints
- Inspect rear wiper blades
- Check rear sway-bar links and bushings
- Inspect engine mounts
- Visual brake check through wheels
Below is in the report included in the oil change at dealer. Personally, I really don't think there is any additional need to perform "B1" service. I know list below is part of generic check list for oil change, but IMHO, if they are not doing a good job inspect for oil change, how do I know they will be doing a good job inspect for "B1" service, which I have to pay more just for inspection?
By the way, this oil change in this dealer take approx. 1 hour in the shop.
- Oil & oil filter change.
- Inspect/measure all 4 tires tread depth & reports each tire's remaining depth.
- Check & set tire pressure.
- Inspect front axle CV joints and boots
- Check front differential for leaks
- Check power steering system for leaks
- Check automatic transmission for leaks
- Inspect cooling system hoses
- Check engine oil level/condition (I guess after they change oil?)
- Check automatic transmission fluid level and condition
- Inspect rear axle CV joints and boots
- Check rear axle seals for leaks
- Inspect battery terminals/cables
- Inspect heater hoses
- Check engine coolant level/condition
- Inspect windshield wiper blades
- Check front axle seals for leaks
- Check rear differential for leaks
- Check cooling system for leaks
- Inspect accessory drive belts
- Check power steering fluid level/condition
- Check hazard light operation
- Check brake light operation
- Inspect SRS diagnostic system (SRS warning light)
- Check windshield washer fluid level/condition
- Check tie-rod ends
- Inspect front shocks and struts; check operation
- Inspect automatic transmission mounts for damages
- Inspect overall condition (all tires)
- Check back-up light operation
- Inspect onboard diagnostic system (check engine light)
- Check headlight and bright beam
- Check front sway-bar links and bushings
- Inspect rear shocks and struts; check operation
- Battery test results
- Check taillight, turn signal, side marker, and license plate lights
- Inspect u-joints and driveline slip-joints
- Inspect rear wiper blades
- Check rear sway-bar links and bushings
- Inspect engine mounts
- Visual brake check through wheels
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