This info has been around for quite a while, but I figured it was time to put it together w/ some pictures.
If your car makes funny rumbling vibration type noises in tight turns....you prolly need the diff fluid changed. It may feel like the vibration or noise is coming from the front or steering, but listen closely and see what you can feel in the steering wheel and/or seat. It is common in parking garages, parking lots, and very tight turns in and out of driveways. If you feel or hear this vibration grumbling moaning binding noise you should change the rear differential fluid. Honda keeps changing the maitenance interval, but many owners report trouble in 30k miles or so.
key words for search: rumble vibration diff diferential differential rear dual pump II fluid front rear vibe
Following are some instructions and pic for anyone interested in what is involved in changing the rear "differential pump fluid” of an Element (or CR-V)
First things first…I’m not a mechanic…nor do I play one on TV. Be safe...wear safey googles, set the parking brake and use a wheel chock and sunblock and a condom. This info is free…and you get what you pay for so here we go…
You’ll only need a few basic tools:
1. A 3/8” drive ratchet handle for loosening and tightening the plugs.
2. Drain pan…. nothing fancy, just has to hold 1.1 quarts.
3. Pump or Funnel…you’ll need to get the new fluid into the diff.
4. You might want to put the vehicle up on ramps to make access easier and/or use some sort of pad to make sliding under the car easier.
![Image]()
You’ll need 1.1 quarts of Honda “Dual Pump Fluid…figure on about $7/quart. *Note-this has been replaced by "Dual Pump II," you shouldn't mix the two fluids, but version II can be used in older Es as version I is discontinued* Seem a lot like ATF to me…but diffs are expensive and I don’t wanna take any chances. You can look for an alternative product if you want, but it ain’t out there so just suck it up and give the $15 to yer local Honda stealership. You might wanna get replacement sealing washers while your there. I skipped ‘em ‘cause I’m such a rebel.
Lets get started….
This is what it looks like under yer E....looking forward:
![Image]()
This is the rear differential as viewed from just inside the left rear wheel:
Note the two plugs, upper and lower.
![Image]()
To loosen the plugs you’ll need a 3/8” drive ratchet handle or similar. The square hole in the plug is the same as the rachet handle so you won't even need a socket. If yer vehicle is older you might wanna hit the plugs w/ a bit of “penetrating lubricant” (I like CRC 3-36 or KROIL) a while before attempting to loosen them.
Loosen the fill plug first…the upper one. It does you no god to drain the fluid if you can’t refill it afterwards. Mine is only 3 years old but they "cracked" loose. Take yer time and be prepared to use some creative language if yer rachet handle is short.
Loosen and remove the lower (drain) plug. What happens next is no big surprise…red fluid drips out into a pan. If you’re using ramps you might wanna drive off the ramps so the vehicle is level for best drainage.
![Image]()
This is what the plugs look like once removed.....note the 3/8" square drive and (aluminum?)sealing washer:
(FWIW....I've heard these were 20mm....but I measured 'em at 19mm w/ a 1.25 pitch...very odd size)
![Image]()
Now that all the fluid is out you gotta put some back in…
Replace the lower plug. Clean it off and snug it down nice and tight. See yer service manual for proper torque specs. I used a “Farmer’s Torqure Wrench” set to “two grunts.” Remember what my Mom used to say…"tight is tight, too tight is broke."
Edit-The official torque specifications:
You can use some sorta pump (like the one I left at work) or a funnel and some hose to replace the fluid. I used a hose clamp to affix a piece of vinyl tube ( ½” ID x 5/8” OD) to a funnel and routed the hose around the rear wheel and across the axle to the diff.
![Image]()
![Image]()
In my case, the hose fit nicely in the diff, and I zip tied the funnel to the fuel filler door so I wouldn’t spill too much.
![Image]()
After pouring 1.1 quarts of fluid into the funnel (or pump), replace the fill plug and be certain it is tight. You can leave it loose (or not reinstall it at all ) like the typical Quickie-Lube place, but you’ll wanna make it snug if you care about yer Element at all. (35ft/lbs like the drain plug)
Wipe off, clean up….and go have fun.
for less than $20 (including funnel and hose) you just saved yerself a whole bunch ‘o trouble. This is easier than an oil change and only needs to be done every 30,000 miles or so. Yes, yer manual says different... but diffs are expensive and a little preventive maintenance goes a long way.
Good luck, have fun....try not to poke yer eye out.
Will
Keywords: grinding vibration binding turns tight turn parking rubbing noise
If your car makes funny rumbling vibration type noises in tight turns....you prolly need the diff fluid changed. It may feel like the vibration or noise is coming from the front or steering, but listen closely and see what you can feel in the steering wheel and/or seat. It is common in parking garages, parking lots, and very tight turns in and out of driveways. If you feel or hear this vibration grumbling moaning binding noise you should change the rear differential fluid. Honda keeps changing the maitenance interval, but many owners report trouble in 30k miles or so.
key words for search: rumble vibration diff diferential differential rear dual pump II fluid front rear vibe
Following are some instructions and pic for anyone interested in what is involved in changing the rear "differential pump fluid” of an Element (or CR-V)
First things first…I’m not a mechanic…nor do I play one on TV. Be safe...wear safey googles, set the parking brake and use a wheel chock and sunblock and a condom. This info is free…and you get what you pay for so here we go…
You’ll only need a few basic tools:
1. A 3/8” drive ratchet handle for loosening and tightening the plugs.
2. Drain pan…. nothing fancy, just has to hold 1.1 quarts.
3. Pump or Funnel…you’ll need to get the new fluid into the diff.
4. You might want to put the vehicle up on ramps to make access easier and/or use some sort of pad to make sliding under the car easier.
You’ll need 1.1 quarts of Honda “Dual Pump Fluid…figure on about $7/quart. *Note-this has been replaced by "Dual Pump II," you shouldn't mix the two fluids, but version II can be used in older Es as version I is discontinued* Seem a lot like ATF to me…but diffs are expensive and I don’t wanna take any chances. You can look for an alternative product if you want, but it ain’t out there so just suck it up and give the $15 to yer local Honda stealership. You might wanna get replacement sealing washers while your there. I skipped ‘em ‘cause I’m such a rebel.
Lets get started….
This is what it looks like under yer E....looking forward:
This is the rear differential as viewed from just inside the left rear wheel:
Note the two plugs, upper and lower.
To loosen the plugs you’ll need a 3/8” drive ratchet handle or similar. The square hole in the plug is the same as the rachet handle so you won't even need a socket. If yer vehicle is older you might wanna hit the plugs w/ a bit of “penetrating lubricant” (I like CRC 3-36 or KROIL) a while before attempting to loosen them.
Loosen the fill plug first…the upper one. It does you no god to drain the fluid if you can’t refill it afterwards. Mine is only 3 years old but they "cracked" loose. Take yer time and be prepared to use some creative language if yer rachet handle is short.
Loosen and remove the lower (drain) plug. What happens next is no big surprise…red fluid drips out into a pan. If you’re using ramps you might wanna drive off the ramps so the vehicle is level for best drainage.
This is what the plugs look like once removed.....note the 3/8" square drive and (aluminum?)sealing washer:
(FWIW....I've heard these were 20mm....but I measured 'em at 19mm w/ a 1.25 pitch...very odd size)
Now that all the fluid is out you gotta put some back in…
Replace the lower plug. Clean it off and snug it down nice and tight. See yer service manual for proper torque specs. I used a “Farmer’s Torqure Wrench” set to “two grunts.” Remember what my Mom used to say…"tight is tight, too tight is broke."
Edit-The official torque specifications:
You can use some sorta pump (like the one I left at work) or a funnel and some hose to replace the fluid. I used a hose clamp to affix a piece of vinyl tube ( ½” ID x 5/8” OD) to a funnel and routed the hose around the rear wheel and across the axle to the diff.
In my case, the hose fit nicely in the diff, and I zip tied the funnel to the fuel filler door so I wouldn’t spill too much.
After pouring 1.1 quarts of fluid into the funnel (or pump), replace the fill plug and be certain it is tight. You can leave it loose (or not reinstall it at all ) like the typical Quickie-Lube place, but you’ll wanna make it snug if you care about yer Element at all. (35ft/lbs like the drain plug)
Wipe off, clean up….and go have fun.
for less than $20 (including funnel and hose) you just saved yerself a whole bunch ‘o trouble. This is easier than an oil change and only needs to be done every 30,000 miles or so. Yes, yer manual says different... but diffs are expensive and a little preventive maintenance goes a long way.
Good luck, have fun....try not to poke yer eye out.
Will
Keywords: grinding vibration binding turns tight turn parking rubbing noise
