If you can't use the traditional rod tool because the ends are round then you need the horse shoe tool.

http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/inner-tie-rod-tool

 

Welcome, Whitehope77.

You're doing all this work without a factory service manual? The manual (removal: 17-36; reinstallation: 17-51–52) just says to use two wrenches. Adjustables are shown, but I don't see why open-ends shouldn't work. What the book doesn't say is how you're supposed to set torque with that kind of wrench (an omission I've noticed elsewhere).

Helm Inc.
H&A

 

well did what u said 2 pipe wrenches had to barrow one held steady so the block did not break and both came right off . I would def recommend bending locking tabs first sure made easy ty for the help

 

> I would def recommend bending locking tabs first
Also noted in the service manual.

 

Dan, is it possible to get in there with a crows foot on a torque wrench?

 

> crows foot on a torque wrench
I like that idea a lot, kinda surprising that the manual doesn't specify it. But I can't attest to it from personal experience.

One thing I gleaned from the manual is that if you ever have to replace the rack (e.g. for a leaky seal), that's the perfect time to replace the joints—while the unit is on the bench.

 

I just replaced mine with a crescent wrench. It's a bit tight but you have to make sure to bend up the locking tab/wash. If not its damn near impossible to get them to turn.
Much easier than I thought.

 

I know this post is a bit old but I'm working on the same issue myself right now. The manual confuses me and the posts on here add to it. How in the heck are you getting wrenches on the inner? I can get my hands on it but from the top the AC and Heater Core hoses are in the way. From the bottom the rack is in the way. I'm working on an 03. Is there something different in later years that allows you to get on these easier?

I just ordered a 29mm crows foot. I think that might work.