Any recommendations? Brands, models... What to avoid? Best places to buy them? Not even sure on what price range, just want something comfortable that I can wear all day. Waterproof I think goes without saying.

If I had an REI near me I would go there as a start, but the closest one is 80+ miles away.

Eastern Mountain Sports is near me...

Dick's Sporting Goods is near me...

Thanks. I want to get these either this weekend or sometime next week.

Having logged thousands of miles of hiking in the last 15 years of my life I can attest to the fact that, as I'm sure you know, fit and low weight should be the overall deciding factors. Go to EMS (They probably have better fitment service there than Dick's) and try on all sorts of boots. Wear each pair for a good amount of time, and walk all over the store. Step on things, awkward things that may simluate rocks (Step on other people's feet if you have to) and definitely make use of the small ramps they provide to check fit. Another thing is to pay close attention to boot weight. You would not believe the difference a few ounces per shoe can make over the course of a few miles, obviously lighter is better.

If you're going to be doing day hiking with a very low weight pack you may want to consider a low top hiking shoe. Something like this:

If you may do mostly day hiking with an occasional multi day trip you may want to consider something in a high top with more support which will help when carrying a 60+ lb. pack, but still very light weight. Goretex althought nice is by no means a necessity as it is super pricey and somewhat overated in my opinion (definitely lacks breathability like other materials.) My first pair of real hiking boots was a pair of non-goretex Asolo leather backpacking boots and I logged a few thousand miles at least on them without any problems. Just had to apply waterproofing to them every once in a while.

I guess tell me more about the hiking you plan on doing and if you don't know then sit down and try to realistically think about what you plan on doing. If you're not doing serious stuff (15-20 miles a day with a 55lb. pack) then you can probably go for a less rugged boot.

 

Won't be any serious hiking of the type to carry heavy packs or anything like that. At least not this year. More of a general hiking boot, not low like a sneaker, but something that supports the ankle.

Something for camping trips and light hiking of trails.

 

How about price? Is there a general price range you'd like to stick with?

 

I have no experience at all with hiking boots so I have no reccomendation. However I am an avid fisherman and have fished many times in the rain. Gore-tex is the the way to go. I've had no breathability issues, but I'm not hiking. Waterproofing, unless there's some new type that I'm not aware of, by its very nature closes off the pores in leather and other materials thereby negating breathability. Another option is to purchase a pair of Gore-tex socks (about $40) for use, if the need arise, with your non Gore-tex boots.

 

I've had good luck with Vasque boots. First pair was leather/Gore-Tex, replaced by the all-leather Sundowner (with Gore-Tex lining) for better water resistance. But mine are heavy-duty for backpacking.

One thing I've learned is not to use liner socks.

 

I have no experience at all with hiking boots so I have no reccomendation. However I am an avid fisherman and have fished many times in the rain. Gore-tex is the the way to go. I've had no breathability issues, but I'm not hiking. Waterproofing, unless there's some new type that I'm not aware of, by its very nature closes off the pores in leather and other materials thereby negating breathability. Another option is to purchase a pair of Gore-tex socks (about $40) for use, if the need arise, with your non Gore-tex boots.

I’m not saying GoreTex isn’t breathable; there are just other technical membranes and waterproofing methods out there which are more breathable than Gore and still waterproof. I work in the outerwear industry for a major ski company and I don’t even use Gore Tex products because they’re just overkill and way too pricey. They may be fine for a stationary sport like fishing but when you’re hiking and your foot is perspiring you don’t want soggy blister causing socks.

I’m going to go off on a tangent here and educate a little about Gore Tex. Gore Tex for many years was just about the only company in the industry offering a waterproof membrane. Even today they “rule” because they built a reputation and now as soon as people hear the name Gore Tex they automatically associate a product with high quality. Gore Tex is not the fabric your jacket or boot is made of. Gore Tex as I stated is just a membrane which is applied to the inside of another fabric (For boots, usually suede, leather, or manmade fabric) As far as products go, you can have a “Gore Tex” jacket with a low quality outer layer which will essentially do you no good because that outer layer will absorb water, the Gore-Tex will only keep it from reaching your clothing or skin. On higher quality Gore-Tex and non Gore-Tex products the outer layer fabric is almost always coated with a treatment (DWR comes to mind) which does not negate breathability. This is not really a coating, it’s actually a chemical compound that creates tiny little spike like features that “stand” straight up. These hundreds of thousands of microscopic vertical spikes cause surface tension and make the water run off the material instead of soak into it. That being said, I have a three layer non Gore-Tex jacket that performs just as well as Gore-Tex in the waterproof department, and doubles the breath-ability rating over Gore-Tex.

 

How about price? Is there a general price range you'd like to stick with?

No more than about $200, but lower is always better. I am willing to pay for comfort.

I know how much nicer a lighter shoe is, my road cycling shoes are Sidi Genesis 4's and they are very light. Much nicer to ride those than my big heavy mountain bike shoes. lol

 

No more than about $200, but lower is always better. I am willing to pay for comfort.

I know how much nicer a lighter shoe is, my road cycling shoes are Sidi Genesis 4's and they are very light. Much nicer to ride those than my big heavy mountain bike shoes. lol

Oh, you won't have a problem finding a good boot then and I doubt you'll even come close to paying $200. You'll probably come in between $100 and $150. Just go to EMS then and annoy the heck out of the sales help there. Good luck!

 

In the $100 range, Columbia makes some good boots. I'm on my third pair (I wear them everyday to work, to conduct field inspections, etc.). I'm currently wearing the Columbia Diamond Peak, comfortable rigth out of the box.

In additon to Vasque, Danner is another excellent high-end choice. From what I've read, however, Danners have a significant break-in period during which they're not all that comfortable.

 

Most important, wear the socks that you plan on using with the shoes when you go to try them on. And, if you don't already have them, try some good synthetic blend socks to help keep your feet dry.
As far as brands go, I've had good luck with Asolo (very good fit overall for me), Merrell (very comfortable, can wear these all day,soles are on the softer side) & Timberland (good fit, flexible forefoot, but not much under the heel area so I added gel heel pads). As you try them on, you'll find that some brands fit your foot better than others.

Rod

 

Look at Solomon, Herman, and Merrell. I have not had good luck with Timberland.

All of them will do well. They are all good quality. You can get the Solomon's with or without thinsulate. My Solomons have it, I use them in colder weather. There still light weight! I like the Hermans for warmer weather.

All are in the price range.

 

Look at Solomon, Herman, and Merrell. I have not had good luck with Timberland.

Agreed, Timberland is nothing but a fashion statement.

 

the most important thing is good fit, and each brand has different characteristics (ie wide, narrow, long for the size, etc). make sure that they hold your foot securely (do the dart forward/fast stop to see). and make sure that there is plenty of space on top of your toes, and a little room in the lacing to allow your feet to swell, which they will.

agreed about wearing the socks you would like to wear hiking, and i highly recommend a pair of sythetic liner socks underneath a thick pair of smartwool brand socks (the liner slides around inside the thick one, reducing blisters, while the thick one provides more cusioning). also consider aftermarket insoles. the extra $25 or so makes a big difference compared to the $1 insoles that come with most boots.

i would also recommend EMS to go in and try on a bunch of pairs, or a local specialty shop if one is around. if you are going into the city, Paragon and Tent n' Trails are both good places to try them on.

 

I'm partial to Lowes (mine have ranged from $150-180). For me, they've always been comfortable and the tread has exceptional grip, even on wet boulders. Also had good luck with Vasque.

I go with light hikers (over the ankle), waterproof.

Feet and boot fit vary so much. Some brands have certain tendencies on fit (better, or not, for narrow feat or high arches, for instance)

Backpacker Magazine's new gear guide is out - worth picking up. Among others, they are high on a pair of LL Bean boots that are surprisingly cheap.

Bean has a great return policy, too.

As someone else noted, proper socks are also extremely important to prevent blisters. Thorlo brand and "Smartwool" have worked great for me.

Good luck. Try to wear them in a little gradually and not do 10 steep miles the first time out. You should take some blister treatment just in case, if you're going out for a long hike in new boots.

 

My own two cents:

First get Smartwool socks. Ignore all other brands, this is the holy grail of socks. They make an "athletic" sock I use with hiking shoes. They also make the "hiking" and "trekking" socks I use in my hiking boot. They are very soft. Warm in winter and cool in summer. I forego the liner sock as the Merino wool of Smartwool uses needs no liner. Never a blister in them.

If you are not carrying a pack or on very rough off trail stuff a pair of hiking shoes or trail runners are lighter, cheaper, and more comfortable. Fit is a personal thing. I like Merrell and Adidas. Lot's of people like Nike, but they do not fit me right. Timberland is a casual shoe, not a hiker.

For light boots there are many good manufacturers (Aslo, Merrell, Vasque, Lowa, Scarpa, Danner, etc). I have to admit I am old school and believe all good footwear comes from Italy. My old Vasque Montanas did, my current Aslo's do too. Sadly, many manufacturers have abandoned Italy for cheap labor (like Vasque). Personally I would look for Italian as they last forever.

Comfort and fit are everything so do as suggested above and wear the socks you will use (see smartwool above) and try on alot. Walk around and around. A great thing about modern leather boots is they do not need painful breaking in like 20 years ago. My current Aslo's fit great in the store and comfort in every step.

Third point-when you find the best fitting pair, buy them no matter what they cost. One day with blisters because you went cheap over comfort will be all it takes to learn that lesson.

And yes, I would get a waterproof/breathable one. Gore-Tex is the best known but in footwear I think the breathable factor is less important.


Funktional- I would be curious to know what is this better than Gore-Tex product? My understanding as a climber/hiker/etc is that Gore-Tex is the best. Other competitor products may be as waterproof as Gore-Tex (mostly the wonders of hot seam taping) but nothing was as breathable as Gore-Tex.

Toray Industries product Entrant used to be the main competitor (might still be) but GT was better. I see Marmot, TNF, and others have entered the cheap rain jacket game (like the Precip). I presume they are all the same waterproof/breathable product. They look nice, light, and cheap, but a Gore-Tex product looks more robust and more breathable.

Tell us more.

 

Funktional- I would be curious to know what is this better than Gore-Tex product? My understanding as a climber/hiker/etc is that Gore-Tex is the best. Other competitor products may be as waterproof as Gore-Tex (mostly the wonders of hot seam taping) but nothing was as breathable as Gore-Tex.

It's okay Jedi, you've been sucked into the Gore-Tex hype, not a big deal since you're one of many, but Gore-Tex isn't even close to being as breathable as other non-pourus membranes out there. For instance, the company I work for has developed our own hydrophilic laminate membrane which while it may only have a 20,000mm permeability rating (Compared to the 40,000mm of Gore-Tex), it almost doubles the breathability of Gore-Tex. Now, I hike a lot, I snowboard a lot, I really just beat the crap out of my gear and never once have I even come close to getting wet with my non Gore-Tex jacket. (Once again, 40,000mm is overkill for just about anyone) But in the same respect, I am always nice and dry inside because my non Gore-Tex jacket allows perspiration to leave the inner portion of my jacket at twice the rate of Gore-Tex.

:shock:

I know, I know, blasphemy to the Gore-Tex faithfull. I get to work with the marketing and product planning side and when mapping out our product line we always have to include the super pricey Gore-Tex models (And even some really cheap models that implement Gore-Tex and have that unmistakeable Gore-Tex label on them) because the general public doesn't know any better and they levitate towards the Gore-Tex name. I'm not trying to be a jerk here, just trying to educate folks on ways to save their hard earned money. Plenty of people can go out and spend $400 on a Gore-Tex jacket, and sure they'll stay dry but I'll spend half that, and I guarantee I'll be just as dry except it'll be a much more comfortable environment inside my jacket than it will be inside that $400 Gore-Tex piece. Plus, I'll have $200 extra dollars in my bank account!

 

They look nice, light, and cheap, but a Gore-Tex product looks more robust and more breathable.

Tell us more.

I'm also curious as to what makes a Gore-Tex product look more robust???? Gore-Tex is a laminate membrane used on the inside of the jacket. It has nothing to do with the outside physical appearance of a jacket. We make leather jackets with a Gore-Tex laminate membrane, and without the membrane it would still look like the same leather jacket. I'm not sure you fully understand what Gore-Tex is.

 

I'll chime in here. I started working in the outdoor industry in small shops ten years ago. I've had a few different fit system clinics in that time.

Number one, as stated, is your socks. If you go with a good pair of Smartwool hiking socks, you should be good to go from there. There shouldn't be need for a pair of liner socks, just change your socks daily when you're out, wash them when you can. Smartwool's are made from merino wool which has a longer fiber than traditional wool. It is then chemically washed/treated to make the fibers smoother. The knitting process gives it that pleasant feel and provides necessary cushioning. I've sold thousands of these. I've also heard Bridgedale makes a good sock, but never been able to get my hands on a pair. Wool dries from the inside out versus cotton that dries outside in. Synthetics just feel like, well, plastic. One of the big things being looked at right now is how much better traditional fabrics perform over even todays best man mades. In fact, keep an eye open for the Mallory/Irving recreation expedition. They think that the clothes those guys were wearing might actually have been a lot better than had previously been give credit for.

Step two, find someone who knows how to actually fully use a brannock device!!! This is the hard part. Knowing how to use one and what to look for on a foot are indespensible. A good fitter will measure the length and width of both feet. They will also look at your arch, your foot volume and look your foot over for oddities such as heel spurs and the such. They should then be able to use that information to translate over to their shoes and boots they carry and possible modifications that might need to be made in insoles, lacing tricks and maybe even a stretching bar.

Don't be afraid to try a lot of shoes on for a long period of time. Also try different insole systems like Superfeet or Montrail if they'll let you (they should). When you think you have found the perfect combo, take them home and wear them inside the house for a while to see if anything feels weird.

Your mantra during all of this will be: Anything that bugs ya' even a little now will amplify a thousand times over when you're in the middle of nowhere!

All that being said, realize that all the stability and support you get out of a shoe, comes from the sole and insole. All those fancy high top boot cuffs that salesmen are going to tout for exeptional support, can be easily flexed by eventhe weakest hands, even my Koflach double plastic ice climbing boots. The support they offer is placebo, what they do do is protect your ankles if you're hiking in a rocky area, like a scree field.

Unless I'm climbing somewhere that I'm going to need my crampons that require special welts for my bails, I wear stout trail runners, gore-tex ones if it is going to be rainy. You would better serve yourself doing some strength training for your feet, ankles and calves. Heel raises, barefoot running and walking, agility drills, alphabet writing, towel scrunches.

Hope that isn't too much.

 

While I was typing away, I see gore-tex being discussed. AFAIK, gore uses the military standard for waterproof. A lot of companies do. That standard states that a soldier must be able to kneel or lay into a puddle of water and no water is to push through. Hunters would be about the only others who would really do that on a regular basis.

The gore membrane, or most water-proof/breathable membranes, are far from robust. This is why you always hear 3-ply, 2.5-ply and 2-ply. These are the number of layers sandwiched together. The 3 and 2.5 have a layer on the inside directly laminated to the membrane to protect it, gore is usually very white (except the one year they tried charcoal xcr). 2-ply is the first generation method that had a hanging mesh liner to protect it, this also allowed manufacturers to install all sorts of pockets and powder skirts to the first generation.

This brings us to something very important, Gore is very controlling of their name. You can't even twitch in their stuff without their okay. This means that every time Arc'teryx wants to push the boundries of how thin they can tape, Gore has to test it first. The one nice thing about gore, if they put their name on it, you have one extra company warranty on it. So, if TNF were to go out of business tomorrow and your mountain guide jacket were to somehow have defective membrane, gore will take care of it for you (or at least they used to).

All this being said, are they the best? Not necessarily. Patagonia and a lot of other companies have their own stuff that work just as well if not better, hence gore had to bust out xcr. Gore products just sell themselves and do have a reputation. Hey, if someone really wants to shell out the extra money for Gore over H2NO, Event, Precip or whatever, I'm no necessarily going to stop them. Interestingly enough, Patagonia had to change a lot of their wording and positioning of garments in their line-up at gore's behest.

It is actually really amazing to see how far we have come in ten years. When I got in, everyone was clamoring over gore for everything. Now, you only really touch the stuff if you're expecting to get really really wet. Most winter gear anymore is what is called soft-shelled, aka not totally waterproof but extremely water-resistant. Even on the wettest, drippiest ice climb, I usually only wear soft-shell gear since their is a higher risk of getting wet from the internal environment than the external.

 

Some great info is being passed along, it is all greatly appreciated.

I'm going to try and hit Dick's after work Friday, otherwise I'll go there Sunday. EMS is close to them so I will go there as well. I'll look for Smartwool socks and pickup a few pair.

Over the years I have hiked in sneakers, Teva's and Timberline boots... depending on where I was hiking.

I hate hi-top sneakers because they are not comfortable to me, but I like boots that go above my ankle. Not for the support, but for the comfort and protection.

Where does Thinsulate fall into the whole layered material deal? Is it more for warmth and nothing to do with waterproof? Just curious, not shopping for that in particular.

 

Thinsulate is an insulation and something you do not need for hikers.

Remember Smartwool and a good fitting shoe or boot.

FWIW I also prefer the sneaker route unless I am with a pack or off trail. For regular trails (as in the average National Park) a shoe is all you need. I use the boots for ankle support with my 60lb pack or for off trail scrambling.

One last thought about boots. Man made materials are often light but in cactus country I prefer a solid leather boot as the leather defeats thorns but nylon does not. Not that I make a habit of kicking a prickly pear, but when you are a hunter or climber or photographer and are trying to get someplace in the dark it sometimes happens.

Good luck!

 

I got a pair of nikes that I have had for about 6 years, they are just now starting to wear out, I too am looking for some new Hiking/work boot. I just don't like having heavy shoes on all day...

 

for good prices on boots try:

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/

I order from them frequently - I have no financial interest in the company.

Merell and Hi Tec tend to have wide heels. I think some of LL Bean boots are made by them.

 

for good prices on boots try:

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/

I order from them frequently - I have no financial interest in the company.

Merell and Hi Tec tend to have wide heels. I think some of LL Bean boots are made by them.

Sierra Trading Post does have good prices, but for shoes and boots, fit is alot more specialized than I think you should attempt for mailorder. Jackets are another matter, but for footwear you should try on with the right socks.

If you find the right fit, then maybe ordering by mail works but not unless you know they fit.

 

Wow alot of good info in here. I work at EMS in (MA) and have been to the Carle Place store a few times. I use to live in Westbury and would go in there when I visit friends who still live in LI. You guys know your stuff. I am still surprised on how much mis-info is out there.

Just some thoughts on fitting boost for 8 years. Try all of them on. Go at night or as late as you can. your feet swell during the day and this is the best time to try on boots. Your feet will swell during a hike and make your trip a real pain in the a** if your feet swell to big for you boot.

Socks. I like to stay away from any non-wool socks. All the synth socks make my feet stink. The reason for that is a interesting one. When you make a sock some lubricant from the loom gets on the sock. With a synth sock you can not wash the stuff out because the hot temp needed would melt the sock. Not so with wool. Now some people don't have any problems with that but for a select few...the bacteria in your sweat loves to eat the lube and increases the amount of stink... anway I love smartwool socks. EMS and REI and someother guys sell there own brand which is as good. I just where my store brand because it is cheeper ( not just for me but for everyone).

As for the Branock (sp) thing I would not get to hung up on that thing. It gives a starting point but nothing else. I use the device but some people get hung on what number they are and won't try anything else. I'll spend a good 1/2 hour just trying on shoes before I get into the different lacing patterns. The real good fitters will know the boot makers in's and out's. Some makers have a small toe box or the instep is high or....you get my drift. try them on!!!!

Gore-Tex. Here are some things to point out that were not already pointed out. Gore-tex is a fabric also. I have been to the factory it comes out in a solid tube and then is shaved off in sheets. (really cool) So in most boots you get "sock" of gore-tex in there. Gore-tex is extremly thin and breaks with ease. So it has to be held in place in between the liner and the out boot. The more holes you have to punch in it to hold it in place the more holes you have in it. Holes = more places water can get in. So if you go with a gore-tex shoe look for one with little stitchin in it. Here is the kicker... in order to get that you need a leather boot, leather does not breath well so that countacts the breathing of the gore-tex. So if hole is worn out in the boot from wear chances are the the waterproof-ness is gone... Gore-tex works much like most things in nature does. Nature likes balance. So Gore-tex works the best when in is cold outside... there is no reason for the hot moist air in your boot to go out if the outside temp is close to the inside temp. I don't use any waterproof boot for hiking. Just treat the shoe with one treatments at the store....