If you can reach the contacts on the starter, put a test meter on it to see if it's getting voltage. If not, check the starter cut relay in the under-dash fuse box.

I don't know how it works on automatics and don't have my service manual handy, but there might be a safety interlock switch on the brake pedal (or possibly sharing the brake light switch) that if malfunctioning could interrupt the starter circuit.

It's always good to check cheap and easy things first. But statistically (based on the small EOC sample) it's probably the starter.

 

Thanks. Is a special tool required to pull the relay? I can't depress the tabs & pull the thing out. doh. If I do get it out, how do you test it.

The starter was replaced by the Honda dealer this year. Testing voltage at the starter is going to be a chore, but I'll give it a shot.
Is the starter solenoid on the starter or what?

I'd guess the brake pedal switch is working: when the pedal isn't depressed, the shifter can't be moved, but when pressing the brake pedal (key ON), I can move the gear shifter thru the gears & the brake lights are coming on.

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/udfrb.htm

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I'm away from my car so can't verify but IIRC the relays in the fuse box just pull right out, no locking tabs.

 

The locking tabs are on the fuse box (interior). That's why I asked. :-o
The relays in the engine bay junction box don't have locking tabs, though.



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In order to crank the engine the starter cut-out relay needs to have power to the pull-in coil from the ignition switch and the relay coil needs to be grounded through the clutch switch on a manual trans or the park-neutral safety switch on a automatic. Power from the ignition switch goes through the relay contacts when the relay is engaged and goes to the starter solenoid on a black/white wire. One can start testing at the starter solenoid (difficult) or in the cabin where most of the electrickery happens. The relay should be in the under-dash fuse panel lower left corner.

 

Thanks. I was going to swap relays, but I guess I'll need some sort of relay puller --- the thing is hard to pull out, especially while trying to keep those tabs out of the way. I tried wiggling it back n forth, but it doesn't move much & won't budge. doh.


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Update --- Unusual Fix.

The car was towed to the dealer. They say they found that the starter connector was disconnected: apparently, when they replaced the starter last spring, the electrical connector to the starter was not plugged in properly & it came out, so they reconnected it & checked over the car & apologized for the inconvenience. no charge --- that's a first.
I guess this is a plausible explanation. ???

 

Sure is. My mother had the same exact problem on a 3 year old Ford Focus that has had NO engine work. There are bad and or tired mechanics everywhere.

 

one weekend i did an engine swap in a civic and was driving the car to work on monday when the car started sputtering and dying a few miles from my work.

i pulled over, and the car completely died. i popped the hood and was looking around when i realized that i had never plugged in the alternator. i drove the car for about 8 miles on just reserve power. now that is pretty impressive.

plugged it in, pushed the car along the shoulder, popped it into gear and i was off haha. never gave me a problem since

so yes. this is very plausible.

 

Similar problem

my son's car won't crank (new battery)...

this is an intermittent problem so i don't think it's the starter. we bought the car used and it has an ignition security device on it that won't allow the car to be hot-wired. in other words, there's an additional fob with a single button that you are supposed to hold down when starting the car. well... we haven't had to hold it down for awhile so i we assume it failed. could this be causing the issue. i'm just hoping it's not the starter. maybe ignition relay or switch? again, the problem is intermittent.

 

my son's car won't crank (new battery)...

this is an intermittent problem so i don't think it's the starter. we bought the car used and it has an ignition security device on it that won't allow the car to be hot-wired. in other words, there's an additional fob with a single button that you are supposed to hold down when starting the car. well... we haven't had to hold it down for awhile so i we assume it failed. could this be causing the issue. i'm just hoping it's not the starter. maybe ignition relay or switch? again, the problem is intermittent.

The first thing to do is remove any aftermarket security device such as that. They are notoriously unreliable. Return the wiring to the OE configuration. Then recheck.

 

Same issue here. Following for updates.

 

Hurk's last login was October 15, 2015. It's fine to revive an old thread, but it would behoove you to note post dates.

Also, one post per topic, please.

 

Sorry about that. I did notice the post date but also the recent replies. I'm having trouble locating my issue which is odd. I'm almost always able to find the issue and the fix on this forum. My apologies for the aggravation.

 

same problem here 2004 almost 200,000 miles on her i could use any info about how to fix her