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Transmission Issues UPDATE 03/20/24

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26K views 107 replies 11 participants last post by  dc99  
#1 ·
Ok, had shifting issues tonight. Barely made it home, flashing D and CEL upon pulling into driveway. Codes are P0780 and P1735. I check transmission dipstick and fluid is right at the bottom of the XXXs. It’s brown and yes it smells burnt. I did a drain and flush a few thousand miles ago along with filter so this is shocking. I then jack up the car and see what appears to be trans fluid leaking out of this small shell piece with 3 bolts. It’s still very hot so I have left it for now. Can someone tell me what this shell piece is? And if it is indeed removable? If so, is this known to leak? What can I expect to find upon removing it?




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#2 ·
Of course I recognize this could be the end. I am trying not to freak out. It would be helpful to know if anyone has experienced anything like this before? I think it makes sense to try and fix trans leak then drain and fill. Delete CELs and go for a drive.

I don’t like coincidences so I doubt this is a sensor issue at this point (such as 3 gear pressure switch) which has been replaced already. But I remain am open to feedback…
 
#4 ·
Looks as though someone has done the smear of sealant before. Pull the cover and just see, maybe its just a seal leaking like where the cable goes into the case. Im just guessing of coarse. Hondabond it. I would do a complete swap as in, while it on jackstands do the normal fluid swap, crank it, put it in gear for few minutes and repeat
 
#5 ·
Interesting. So the seal is not a rubber piece that can be bought? I should try to seal with Hondabond?

So assuming it’s been slipping because of low fluid. Is it possible that once I fix leak and restore fluid level the trans goes back to normal? I suppose it all depends if my trans has been damaged. Ugh, my anxiety is killing me right now.

Am going to try and dig in there once my little one naps this afternoon.
 
#6 ·
I honestly dont know and really didnt think the element had a cable as almost everything uses a speed sensor nowdays. You can see that somebody has tried to smear sealant behind that spot already so that may be the cause or it could be something behind that cover and the wind is just pushing the fluid toward the bolt head. It would be wort a try to at least pull the cover and see. See the sealant in the pic?
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#20 ·
You had said "It’s still very hot so I have left it for now", and that's in the same post where you show a picture of the dip stick. Does that mean that the fluid is at its lowest mark when the transmission is hot? I'm away from home and thus away from my manuals, but as I recall you are supposed to measure the fluid level with the engine off and cold. Can someone check? If true, you are way low on fluid.
 
#22 ·
Manual says that the ATF is checked warm.

Don't know how far you have gotten, but before you get too far into taking things apart, how about topping up the ATF and seeing how it drives. It would be frustrating to replace a leaky seal on a bad transmission.

If it were a Ford or GM transmission it would be fine. My delivery van suffered a pin hole in a rusted cooler line. Adding fluid brought it back to life. I replaced the line and it has worked normally for 1000s of miles.
 
#23 ·
I am leaning towards Honda-bonding the seal and doing a partial drain and flush. Once I drain it, I will be able to see if any metal particles come out. I think what I have going for me is I have maintained the trans well it's whole life and I did not hear any grinding when I last drove it. I am hopeful that once I fill that fluid back up the slipping goes away. II have been so anxious regarding this situation. I am certainly praying for a Christmas Miracle.
 
#26 ·
I starting to think maybe it's too risky with the recent issues and high mileage to do a drain at this point. I know it is a frequent debate on here regarding whether to drain transmissions with high mileage, but maybe I should simply fix leak and fill up with more fluid?
 
#28 ·
Although thr TC in many hondas fail, it's generally the friction surfaces which overheat and fail, sometimes losing a gear or welding themselves together. I agree with changing the seal, as that shifter shaft rotates in it. You may get off easy though, with changing it and doing the drain and refill procedure.