[racerc2000]

None of those header will work... the Element has cross member that gets in the way. The that works best with a little mod it the RSX shorty header... there are a couple manufactures that make them like BuddyCub, Computech and DC Sports.

the skunk copy fit on mine. I can guarantee it will not work for a 4wd element but as for clearance between crossmember and body it has plenty. as with most exhaust mod is a must as it pulls the exhaust more towards the center and away from the crossmember issues the only Element specific header has.

but the skunk copy and obviously the skunk. is short. so a cat delete is not required.

I wont say its no work to install but it didnt require any BFH mods

but please note I have a 2010 SC 2wd I do not know if there are any variations

if you feel doubtful do what I did find headers that look like a good fit and start asking for specific measurements. flange bolt at head to top of tubes etc flange bolt to bottom of tubes bend radius's etc. width. I got mine like 6 months ago for like 375$

 

[EXwSCnose]

...Market volume!!! It ain't there!!!

Why Cant they come out with more Aftermarket Parts for the element!:|
Where we dont have to do all this. . . Converting Crap.

 

[angus5]

To me it looks like headers that try to pass 4 tubes stacked on top of each other ***MIGHT*** hit the crossmember -

The particular one that I last posted a pic of looks like it'll fit since it only has 2 tubes where it passes through the crossmemeber, other headers that look like they will fit are:

- OBX TSX HEADER

- DC sports TSX header

Please keep in mind that these will all require a custom exhaust and no, I do not want a shorty header, the is not much better than stock.

BTW - I did consider the Skunk2 header but at $800 I could buy a turbo, a manifold, the piping, an intercooler and all the hardware I need to go turbo -

Believe me I am tempted, but I have enough boosted cars I think I will stay N/A for once.

 

[racerc2000]

To me it looks like headers that try to pass 4 tubes stacked on top of each other ***MIGHT*** hit the crossmember -

The particular one that I last posted a pic of looks like it'll fit since it only has 2 tubes where it passes through the crossmemeber, other headers that look like they will fit are:

- OBX TSX HEADER

- DC sports TSX header

Please keep in mind that these will all require a custom exhaust and no, I do not want a shorty header, the is not much better than stock.

BTW - I did consider the Skunk2 header but at $800 I could buy a turbo, a manifold, the piping, an intercooler and all the hardware I need to go turbo -

Believe me I am tempted, but I have enough boosted cars I think I will stay N/A for once.

I agree with everything you have said. and I myself would not have bought the skunk2 branded header for 800$ the copy was fine for 375$ its sad that its now discontinued.

I did not want a shorty. and ram horn non turbo shorties are hard to come by for k series. and its doubtful it will show an improvement anyway.

the best part of most of these Kswap headers. primarily specific k24 big tube ones. is that they are short enough to keep the cat if you so wish.

and that is one reason the element long tube header has somany fitment issues. if only they shortened it up and added a test pipe they could have pulled the header more towards the center and away from the subframe mount

 

[angus5]

So you think this'll fit, I think so - I cancelled the TSX header and bought this one.

 

[racerc2000]

is that a k20 or k24 header? most flat tube type manifolds will fit but but manifolds for a k20 are inherently shorter in height then a k24 header. if its a good company ide ask them for the measurement from flange bolt to top and bottom or the lower pipes.

and do a rough compare on yours

on mine. the fitment is around 15" head flange bolt to bottom of pipe and about 12" from head flange bolt to top of pipe. those are the measurements I would not go over. the skunk was 14" bottom and around 13" top so it was right in the middle of the range

but again most header swaps wont work for manual unless they are drastically pulled to the passenger side. which most are not. but on FWD elements we have tons of room in the center for exhaust work.

Why Cant they come out with more Aftermarket Parts for the element!:|
Where we dont have to do all this. . . Converting Crap.

how do aftermarket pieces become available. someone has to make them available. one reason why my car has a stock manifold on it atm and a cut up skunk copy.

looking to have a few mods made to make it a better fit. (more 4wd clearance) and a pipe to connect to oem cat/exhaust. maybe even a pipe with a performance cat that will mount to oem exhaust.

once my exhaust guy gives me some numbers. and im done prototype testing. I should have a header,full exhaust and a dual and single pipe exhaust in limited production. which you can piece together as you wish.

header. test pipe with and without cat. mid pipe exhaust with double pass through muffler. and a dual or single pipe rear section.

rear sections bolt to oem exhaust. mid section bolts to oem cat so it should be easy.

 

[racerc2000]

I was just flawed by the beauty. its not cheap but I think it might be my next header. just to be original. im waiting on measurements atm

and ide like to compare the skunk type to it on a dyno.

 

[angus5]

Well it looks like this should fit according to your measurements. We will see tomorrow!

\

 

[racerc2000]

looks like the header might be a tad shallow. it might fit perfect also but it will be close to the body. a good exhaust shop could fix that by bending the bottom pipes slightly if needed.

but the inherent motor angle might give it the perfect fit. GL and hope it all goes well the only diff between a k20 and k24 header is about 3/4 inch more in the measurements from flange to tubes

 

[angus5]

So you think this'll fit, I think so - I cancelled the TSX header and bought this one.

OK, so this header, the PLM K-swap header fits with ample clearance to everything, I remade the pipe from the header to the rear muffler in 2.5" and added a tanabe resonator that I had.

If one wanted to, it would not be hard to keep the factory resonator and make a small "s" pipe to mate up.

Pics are soon to follow.

 

[AztecRol]

OK, so this header, the PLM K-swap header fits with ample clearance to everything, I remade the pipe from the header to the rear muffler in 2.5" and added a tanabe resonator that I had.

If one wanted to, it would not be hard to keep the factory resonator and make a small "s" pipe to mate up.

Pics are soon to follow.

So no cat?

 

[racerc2000]

good to hear it worked out so hows it feel?

I wonder what the difference in performance will be. between the 1/2 3/4 and the 1/3 2/4 paired headers.


i wonder whos doing it right and whos doing it wrong..

in most cases its not a tuned header and just done for space etc.

but when you have a choice and build it for a motor what changes with oposing and Siamese pulses?

 

[angus5]

So no cat?

No cat, I used and J-pipe for the D/S O2 sensor.

I may add a 100 cell cat later.

 

[angus5]

good to hear it worked out so hows it feel?

I wonder what the difference in performance will be. between the 1/2 3/4 and the 1/3 2/4 paired headers.


i wonder whos doing it right and whos doing it wrong..

in most cases its not a tuned header and just done for space etc.

but when you have a choice and build it for a motor what changes with oposing and Siamese pulses?

I wish I had taken the time to dyno the thing stock - I don't pay for dyno so it was purely a matter of time (that I didn't have...)

When I put the injen CAI in, I did notice slightly more power, it was easier to spin the inside tire pulling out of the driveway (245/40/20 Direzzas)

The header and B-pipe added about the same kind of increase, I can now smoke the inside tire just taking a bend in the road and flooring it, and if it is spinning I can get it to alternate left to right if I crank the wheel.

I have seen the K headers made with the cylinders paired both ways, it all comes down to tuning, this header has as much of an increase as one could expect, I may toy with other designs down the road - since this one has so much clearance, some of the other ones should work too.

It is such a joke - so far the only header that does not fit, is the one made for the E...

 

[angus5]

One thing I would like to add, since I first sat in a K-series car and revved the engine, I thought they sounded like a tractor.. sort of a crappy "putt-putt" noise.

The header takes that away and replaces it with a nice tuned sound.

 

[angus5]

OK, here are the pics - as you can see there is a ton of room left - ONLY ON 2WD...

J-pipe

 

[racerc2000]

looks great! I think your exhaust is too small

I really need to get rid of my last parts of my oem exhaust. the oem muffler bubbles hehe its not even out the tailpipe but a noise happening inside the muffler XD


and as for the fitment. i believe 90% of k series headers will fit a 2wd. I guess most modders have a 4wd.

the space difference is huge.

 

[angus5]

So I added a 100 cell cat, the difference in sound is a more mellow tone - at the expense of some top end.

I will next do the rear section, I still have the big OEM cannister so I will replace that with 2.5" all the way - hopefully by adding a second resonator and rear muffler I can keep the noise down.

 

[gruvncubn]

So I added a 100 cell cat, the difference in sound is a more mellow tone - at the expense of some top end.

I will next do the rear section, I still have the big OEM cannister so I will replace that with 2.5" all the way - hopefully by adding a second resonator and rear muffler I can keep the noise down.

This is a good alternative to the DC 4-2-1 Shorty header but it comes at the cost of loosing the CAT. I suppose one could have the muffler shop move it down so it could fit.

Nice job on the install.

 

[racerc2000]

This is a good alternative to the DC 4-2-1 Shorty header but it comes at the cost of loosing the CAT. I suppose one could have the muffler shop move it down so it could fit.

Nice job on the install.

full length race headers remove the cat for a reason... cuz there "race" headers emissions are not a factor on a race car and... a cat does nothing but lower sound and lower performance to achieve lower emissions.

if your that worried about having a cat. sticking with low performance per $ shorties

as for these long tube headers. all k20/k24 full length headers that will fit a 2wd element (less the one made for elements) are short enough to keep the cat if you wanted. the use of a 45 degree bend at the cat/exhaust connection and a new pipe in front of the cat would fix this. and moving the heat shield would be recommended. and a plug or 2 on the header depending on which you buy.

and you can continue to drive like stock with a small boost in power and sound.