Honda Element Owners Club banner
21 - 40 of 43 Posts
besides it being a nifty gadget, whats the point? It can easily be bypassed, & you still have to put the key in the ignition to unlock the column & enable the imobilizer right?

do you see where I'm going with this? hahahaha,

"yeah, it's cool, I use my keyfob to unlock the door, then I get it, put the key in the ignition, turn it, punch my code into my keypad & then hit my starter button to start the E....it's awesome!"

or, you could simply turn the key a little farther...kinda like you do already?:D

:-o
 
besides it being a nifty gadget, whats the point? It can easily be bypassed, & you still have to put the key in the ignition to unlock the column & enable the imobilizer right?

do you see where I'm going with this? hahahaha,

"yeah, it's cool, I use my keyfob to unlock the door, then I get it, put the key in the ignition, turn it, punch my code into my keypad & then hit my starter button to start the E....it's awesome!"

or, you could simply turn the key a little farther...kinda like you do already?:D

:-o
This is kinda what I was thinking. To each his own though. However, it is a clean looking install.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
The way I set it up I don't have to use the key or the lock, the remote does everything. I did it that way on purpose cause one of our other drivers had his truck stolen while he was on site on a call. He was only a few feet away and someone jumped in and took off. If someone tries that with my E I'll be able to shut it down before it's too late. If they can figure out how to get it out of park in the first place (I've got a trick to that too). The downfall is that if the remote battery dies and I don't have my spare with me I'd be under my dash rewiring stuff to get rolling again. The keypad is only there as a backup in that scenario. I don't have to punch in the code every time I want to crank it up. Until I install a start button I do still have the start position of the lock wired up if I have to use the code lock.

does that make sense? I've had a few beers already

cheers
Pierre
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Why not keep the oem ignition switch and immobilizer? The immobilizer and steering wheel lock are great anti-theft devices; the keypad could be just another layer of security.
They are... I know... but I needed a way to leave my car running while on site and not worry. That's where it all began. One mod leads to another... isn't that how it always happens?
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Santa brought me my button

Ms. Santa that is. She also got me another remote kit so I can do the same to the bike and use one remote for both.

I found a much better spot for the remote receiver, it fits perfectly behind the gauge cluster. It's harder to get too and the antenna is right up top so it works from farther away . I also took the lock apart to disable the steering column lock so I didn't have to leave a key in the ign anymore, it is now just for looks.

Image


Image


Image


Image


Image
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
I don't understand how you got past the immobilizer.
Easy, we cut Honda transponder keys. Every once in a while one gets screwed up and thrown away. Instead, I kept the key, tore it apart to get the transponder chip out of the head, programmed the chip to the car and placed it in the column close enough to the antenna.
 
That is fantastic!!! I really admire the work you put into that mod, and the fact that it looks factory. Great job!! Drew:)
 
I love it!! Dare I ask how much this mod would cost parts-wise? :rolleyes:



 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Thanks all... I was quite pleased with the way it turned out too. I gotta give props to the wifey for suggesting the original spot for the keypad.

Prices:

$64.95 remote kit
$19.95 extra transmitter
$32.95 code lock kit
$38.30 genuine Honda S2000 start button

A few bucks for a couple of relays and the black stick-on stuff that the wife got from the craft store. I already had all the stuff for the wiring. The transponder chip and programming was free for me so I can't really say what that would cost. If anyone wanted to do this I'm sure I could scrape up another bad key.
 
Just a couple of thoughts on this....the RF board could be replaced with an actual remote start unit for about the same cost. It would have door lock and parking light control built in along with a couple of extra channels in most cases. The main benefit would be that there would actually be a usable range on it. 120 ft is not really what I would consider range and in most cases they come with two transmitters.

As far as the transponder...there are also bypass modules available that allow you to integrate a remote start without the use of another key or chip. They simply "learn" the codes from the existing keys for lack of a better explanation.

So...you could basically do this with a remote start system and the addition of the keypad and start button. Most remote start systems have an input that will start the car when pulsed. So, punch in the code to activate the starter button, press the button to trigger the remote start and your off and running OR do a valet takeover when your exiting the vehicle and the remote start will continue to run the car anyway. The only thing that I can see that would be different is that remote start systems are usually only programmable for a 1 hour max run time which I cannot see why you would want to let your vehicle idle for that long anyway....on the job or not. Being able to drive the vehicle without a key involved period is not very wise in my opinion. I wonder if the insurance company would even pay out if the vehicle was stolen :confused:
 
... Being able to drive the vehicle without a key involved period is not very wise in my opinion. I wonder if the insurance company would even pay out if the vehicle was stolen :confused:
well, considering that the vehicle was previously left running w/ the key in the ignition, i would think the insurance company would welcome the improved security of the new arrangement.
 
21 - 40 of 43 Posts