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I'm posting up a follow-up to my installation since it took me a long time to go through the 22 pages, at the time, of information, a few times to ensure I was doing everything correctly. Hopefully this will help others and make it easier for them. I did this on a 2004 Honda Element.

Here's what I ordered.
1) Tonsiki 12/24V Dual LED USB 4.2A Charger Power Outlet Adapter and Cigarette Lighter Socket for Motorcycle Car Boat Marine Carvan (Green) $15.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NRFX8N/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2) 14 GAUGE WIRE ENNIS ELECTRONICS 100 FT RED 100 FT BLACK PRIMARY REMOTE HOOK UP AWG COPPER CLAD $21.95
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCTWPMM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3) 270 PCS Heat Shrink Wire Connector Kit Electrical Insulated Crimp Marine Automotive Terminals Set $29.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GXQMP66/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4) BUSS HHH 30 Amp ATM Add-A-Fuse $11.95
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GKEXK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5) Tonsiki 5Pcs 50 Size Large Cobalt HSS Step Titanium Cone Drill Hole Cutter Bit Set Tool for Plastic, Aluminum, Copper and Stainless Steel $20.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DZNIK6Y/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
6) Lockitt POSI-TAP Assortment pack wire connectors 10-22 awg $9.16
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMC5DII/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Total: $110.03, Obviously it can be done for a lot cheaper, but this is just a reference for others if they don't want to look for their own parts.

So the easiest place for me to install a second power outlet was on the center console because it's not as difficult to run the cable compared to placing it by the handbrake.
IMG_9774.jpg

1) The center console can be removed by pulling on the bottom right corner until it pops out.
2) From there, you can start pulling it from around to get the rest to pop out.
3) You'll have to disconnect the cables for the HVAC and the Emergency light on the back of the center console before you can pull it all the way out.
4) Then you'll have to put the car in neutral in order to remove the center console.
5) Using the Step Titanium Cone Drill Hole Cutter Bit with a drill, I slowly drilled into the center console, continually checking to ensure the power outlet fit and also that I didn't drill too big of a hole.
6) This pic shows you the power outlet installed, with the circular piece that tightens it onto the back of the center console. It comes with 4 connectors so all I had to do was crimp it down to the red/black cables that I purchased. On the back of the power outlet, it shows which one is positive and negative so you won't have to guess. You can also see in the pic, where the center console clips are.
IMG_9637.jpg
7) Feed the red/black cables through the center and down towards your fuse box.
8) I forgot to take a picture of where I grounded the black cable, but you can attach it to any bolt that is touching metal. I crimped a connector from the kit that I bought onto the other end of the black cable so that I could attach it to a bolt.
9) Crimp the other end of your red cable to the Add-A-Fuse. Depending on your power preference, I pulled fuse 18 from the fuse box, and inserted the Add-A-Fuse with 2, 15 amp fuses attached to it.

Note:
Fuse 2, 15 Amps - Rear accessory power socket, Power Always On
Fuse 3, 15 Amps - Daytime running lights control unit (Canada), Power Always On
Fuse 18, 15 Amps - Front power socket, rear power socket relay, Power On with Key
Reference: http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/udfrb.htm

The power outlet lights up blue at night.
IMG_9660.jpg

For the Dual USB Installation, I placed it by the handbrake, the rationale being that both the driver and passenger could use it, and rear passengers as well, and whatever is being charged could be placed in the cup holder.
IMG_9780.jpg

Here's the underside of the cup holder, if you're having difficulty removing it, you can see where it needs to be removed.
IMG_9634.jpg

1) As mentioned by a previous user, remove the subwoofer to give you more access in feeding the red power cable from the handbrake area to the center console area. It's attached by 4, 10mm bolts, 2 on each side as shown in the picture below.
IMG_9640.jpg
2) You'll also have to disconnect this cable that's attached to the subwoofer.
IMG_9641.jpg
3) Here's the underside of the cup holder, showing where I had to drill, using the same step cone drill bit.
IMG_9643.jpg
4) Attach the red/black cables, crimped down to the connectors that's included, to the dual usb. Here's where I connected the black cable to a ground. And as suggested by a previous user, you can use a hanger to help in feeding it through under the plastic floor board. I bent a hanger into one long piece and folded one end to help secure the cable. I also used a crowbar to help pull up the plastic floor board so that I could feed it through easier.
IMG_9648.jpg
5) As recommended by ramblerdan, I used POSI-TAP, to utilize the power outlet's power/red cable as shown below.
IMG_9651.jpg
 

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I exceeded the 10 picture limit, so I'm posting the last picture for the dual usb that lights up green at night.
IMG_9665.jpg

On a side note, I'm looking into installing a dash cam with a battery that's hardwired to the fuse box. I need to connect it to another ACC/Ignition powered fuse. Should I use another POSI-TAP and connect it to the power outlet that's connected to fuse 18? Keep in mind that my dual usb is already POSI-TAP'd to it. Is there another fuse that's ACC/Ignition powered?
 

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I have a battery maintainer connection cable that provides direct battery connection to a panel mounted connector/status indicator I wish to install. Been perusing this lengthy thread for information on location of a convenient access hole through the firewall in order to wire directly to the battery terminals and cant seem to find any applicable information. I prefer to not punch any new holes in the firewall but just piggyback existing passthrough openings. Any help welcome.
 

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EOC Rank: Crankypants
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A thread-title search for keyword "fireall" returns these relevant threads, among others:

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54699
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68162
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10648
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45951


I have a battery maintainer connection cable that provides direct battery connection to a panel mounted connector/status indicator I wish to install. Been perusing this lengthy thread for information on location of a convenient access hole through the firewall in order to wire directly to the battery terminals and cant seem to find any applicable information. I prefer to not punch any new holes in the firewall but just piggyback existing passthrough openings. Any help welcome.
 

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I have a battery maintainer connection cable that provides direct battery connection to a panel mounted connector/status indicator I wish to install. Been perusing this lengthy thread for information on location of a convenient access hole through the firewall in order to wire directly to the battery terminals and cant seem to find any applicable information. I prefer to not punch any new holes in the firewall but just piggyback existing passthrough openings. Any help welcome.
I'm thinking that you could probably just cut your red power cable, splice it with an add-a-fuse, to get your power from the interior fuse block instead of fishing it through the firewall. You can ground the black cable on a bolt behind the subwoofer box. That should give you the power that you're looking for, depending on how much power is required from that device you have.
 

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The earlier posts to this thread contain much valuable information, that I used when adding my additional power socket. Obviously their authors had given much thought to this project. Based on their work, here is my solution.

a) use the #8 fuse as the source of 12v employing the “add-a-circuit” dual fuse insert
b) employ a single double-insulated 12G wire to the new socket in keeping with Honda’s practice of enclosing all hot wires inside protective tubing to prevent any shorts to the metal chassis
c) I routed this single wire up and alongside the existing cabling to the center heater box, and then threaded it down to exit at the bottom of the center lower cover. Care was taken not to allow this lead to droop down to catch on anyone’s foot on the foot pedals.,,, by zip-tying it to existing cabling. The lead then then crosses to the center console under the front carpet to enter a single hole in the exterior covering plastic. This allows access to the interior of the console.
d) This wire is then snaked to the back where it is plugged into the hot lead of the 12v lighter socket. The ground for this socket is secured to the steel frame of the center console. Care is taken to keep both wires on the right-hand side of the center console box, away from the hand-brake cables in the left-hand side of the center console box.
e) Take care replacing the plastic center console to insure that all the wiring is INSIDE the console steel box, and not caught under an edge.

The socket is powered only when the ignition switch is on, in contrast to the rear power socket, which is always ‘on’. I chose this location so that any rear-seated passengers could have easily access to 12v in case they needed to recharge their portable electronic gear such as a phone. It is off the floor within the center console to minimize contamination from floor debris such as leaves or dirt. I chose the route the hot lead through the center dash as it seemed to be one creating the least amount of physical change to Honda’s interior, and away from daily traffic in and out of the car.

Needless to say, any such additions must be fused, to prevent interior fires in the case of an electrical short anywhere along the path.

W. Li
 

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I just fninshed adding a 12v outlet on the center/cupholder console on my '07. I did this in the same spot to my first '04 Element about 8 years ago. I'd been wanting to do it to this one for awhile, and once the mild winter broke a bit I took my chance. I used an OEM Honda rear outlet for the Element this time. Last time I only used the OEM cover over an aftermarket socket. As I remember last time, the polarity was marked, so I had to do a bit of thinking with the OEM socket. The riveted blade is the positive connection and the other is the negative.
I debated using a newer USB only double IMG_1020.jpeg IMG_1019.jpeg socket, but I've read spotty reviews on reliability, and my rationale was the standard 12v outlet is a bit more flexible than a USB outlet. With the standard outlet I can use a USB/USB-C charger for quick charging the phone as an option, or a regular USB outlet, or something with a 12v plug. I installed this using 12g wire and connected it to the #14 fuse for the power mirrors since they're rarely ever called upon. I like the look of the Honda cover for consistency with my rarely used rear outlet.

203382


203383
 

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I had been meaning to add a power outlet for a long time. Finally did so this past weekend. Hated having my GPS cord run across the radio to get power from the passenger side. So, I added an outlet on the small vertical section of the dash tray between the steering wheel and the center console.

I found it mostly easy. There "almost" wasn't enough depth behind the dash. Hooking up the wires blind and in that tight space was an adventure. I took the easy way out with an add-a-circuit in Fuse #18 (thanks for the advice). Ground was another story. Couldn't find one readily accessible. So, I tapped a hole in the dash support that was readily available when the cover panel to the fuses was removed.

Works as desired. I'm wishing I'd have done that sooner.....
 

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I had been meaning to add a power outlet for a long time. Finally did so this past weekend. Hated having my GPS cord run across the radio to get power from the passenger side. So, I added an outlet on the small vertical section of the dash tray between the steering wheel and the center console.

Works as desired. I'm wishing I'd have done that sooner.....
Finally managed to get a quick photo of the placement.... Here you go...
203954
 

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I exceeded the 10 picture limit, so I'm posting the last picture for the dual usb that lights up green at night.
View attachment 183993

On a side note, I'm looking into installing a dash cam with a battery that's hardwired to the fuse box. I need to connect it to another ACC/Ignition powered fuse. Should I use another POSI-TAP and connect it to the power outlet that's connected to fuse 18? Keep in mind that my dual usb is already POSI-TAP'd to it. Is there another fuse that's ACC/Ignition powered?
I would PAY bucks if I could find someone to do this! Amazing ! @raveboy78
 

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I had been meaning to add a power outlet for a long time. Finally did so this past weekend. Hated having my GPS cord run across the radio to get power from the passenger side. So, I added an outlet on the small vertical section of the dash tray between the steering wheel and the center console.

I found it mostly easy. There "almost" wasn't enough depth behind the dash. Hooking up the wires blind and in that tight space was an adventure. I took the easy way out with an add-a-circuit in Fuse #18 (thanks for the advice). Ground was another story. Couldn't find one readily accessible. So, I tapped a hole in the dash support that was readily available when the cover panel to the fuses was removed.

Works as desired. I'm wishing I'd have done that sooner.....
you arent near zip 12603 are you ?
 

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Just used one of these to power my rear view mirror camera. Was easy to run the wire from glove box to fuse box. Attaching photo rather than link so people can find similar contraptions once the Amazon link is dead.

204722
 
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