I had a similar code pop up on my truck right before I blew the headgasket out or was it at the same time, I don't know. But what I do know is, if you leave this unattended you are bound to have larger issues down the road. Since you changed the obvious items I would consider doing a compression test.

 

P0301 is a very common code when the valves need to be adjusted. Yes the Element does need to have the valves adjusted and it isn't hard. Around $200. if you want someone to do it or you can do it yourself. http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8768

 

Thank you

I appreciate the advice. I just left the dealership and they said there is no compression in cylinder number 1. They said it would be $1000 to diagnose. I brought it back home.

 

1. Swap out injectors-move cyl1 to cyl4
2. Check all plugs are tight
3. Valve adjustment


Remove fuse#17 before swaping injectors, disconnect battery at each stage.

I'm putting my $ on valve adjustment based on stealerships compression test...

 

The exhaust valves get tight over time and after awhile they get so tight it wont let the valve close. That's why the compression test failed. If your lucky the valve isn't burnt yet. And if your wondering..Yes it does say to adjust your valves in the owners manual.

 

P0301

Hi Guys, I have the same problem like a month before and I want to share this info, to contribute a little bit, about this code, like other owners said before, check:

1.- Spark plugs, looking for traces of oil, soot, green-yellow spots (antifreeze) or damage. If everything is ok...

2.- Interchange the ignition coils, and if the code change from p0301 to p0302 (if you change coil 1 to coil 2), bingo you find the problem, is everything is ok...

3.- Some cases the fuel injector can "turn on" the p03XX code, but this issue have is own code (i don't remember what code), but you can try the same case that the ignition coils, change the fuel injectors, if the problem insist...

4.- Check the cylinder pressure, is the pressure is down to 130 psi something bad is happening, can be some of this cases:

a)The gasket is broke and the pressure pass to another cylinder camera, is really weird, but in some cases you don't have any oil or antrifreeze loss, but you can smell like raw fuel in the exhaust pipe.

b) The valves needs a adjust.

c) A "burning" Valve, well that's happen to me :x, two valves of the cylinder 1, was damage, one looks like a small scratch, but the other looks like a crack, the cylinder loss the pressure for this cracks because doesn't seals.

The a) b) and c) cases are bad because needs to open the engine, change the gaskets and valves, I know in the USA the mechanical services are expensive than in Mexico (where I live), but the effort to repair the car worth it!

Have a nice day and ride. Sorry for my English grammar.

 

P0301

Hi Guys, I have the same problem like a month before and I want to share this info, to contribute a little bit, about this code, like other owners said before, check:

1.- Spark plugs, looking for traces of oil, soot, green-yellow spots (antifreeze) or damage. If everything is ok...

2.- Interchange the ignition coils, and if the code change from p0301 to p0302 (if you change coil 1 to coil 2), bingo you find the problem, is everything is ok...

3.- Some cases the fuel injector can "turn on" the p03XX code, but this issue have is own code (i don't remember what code), but you can try the same case that the ignition coils, change the fuel injectors, if the problem insist...

4.- Check the cylinder pressure, is the pressure is down to 130 psi something bad is happening, can be some of this cases:

a)The gasket is broke and the pressure pass to another cylinder camera, is really weird, but in some cases you don't have any oil or antrifreeze loss, but you can smell like raw fuel in the exhaust pipe.

b) The valves needs a adjust.

c) A "burning" Valve, well that's happen to me :x, two valves of the cylinder 1, was damage, one looks like a small scratch, but the other looks like a crack, the cylinder loss the pressure for this cracks because doesn't seals.

The a) b) and c) cases are bad because needs to open the engine, change the gaskets and valves, I know in the USA the mechanical services are expensive than in Mexico (where I live), but the effort to repair the car worth it!

Have a nice day and ride. Sorry for my English grammar.

Todavía sigues activo en el foro? te quería pedir un poco de asesoría

 

Glad I found this thread.

I have the PO301 happening now as well. Replaced the plus, on all 4 and got a new coil on Number 1 (number 1 is all the way top the left, near the timing chain....correct?) and had the battery disconnected. Whelp, as I would have it, drive it around, yupp, light come back on, P0301 still.

SO, I'll do a compression test to see. But two questions. If the vales are out of spec, will compression be bad? And it it time to replace the injectors if compressions is good on all 4?

I have an 05, manual with 157K on it.

Much appreciated. I just got this car, used obviously,m and dont wanna let it fall to the wayside so soon.

 

I don't know how many times I have to tell people. The Valves neeeeeeed to be adjusted or the exhaust valves will get too tight and cause your exact problem. In your manual it says to adjust them around the 100k mark. Just get it done.

 

Sounds good. I just read over the sticky a few times. Seems like an easy enough job.

 

Helping diagnose po301 intermittent misfire

Hey guys

I am do a smog and right before the date I get this check engine light.

I adjusted the valves and the sparkplugs are clean and fairly new.

I am pressing cause registration is do soon and could use some help diagnosing the problem.

E

 

Smog test

A new air filter, if dirty, can help, also high-test fuel. Purchase an inexpensive code reader to know where problem was, or, still is. Could be a TPS sensor. Mine gives off a warning once in a while!

 

P0301 is cylinder 1.

Threads merged. Search term "p0301" returns this thread. See above.

I'd try swapping coil packs first.

Edit: Oops, you already did that.

 

Here is where I am at...

Check engine lights only comes on at idle. The lights stops if I kick the RPM up to 3000.

Here is what I have done...

Adjusted valves
Checked Spark Plugs
Changed Air Filter
Change coil pack cyl1 with cyl4

Still shows cylinder 1 misfire

Next steps...

Swap injecters from cyl1 to cyl4

Compression test...

Never done this on a Honda or cars with a computer...
-can I use a push button self starter?
-what do I disconnect

*if someone can send me to a link I would appreciate
It

Any other ideas would be great...

Using a snap on mt2500 scanner for the diagnostic... Old but it's the only one I have ever used...

 

Help...

I am pretty sure that I have a burnt valve in cylinder 1...it's at 300k miles so I can't complain.

I do have a few questions...

Last thing I need to check is the injectors but can't seem to find the removal of injector instructions online for an element.

Removed bolts (2)
Removed wiring
Removed gas cap

How do I release the fuel pressure to pull out the rail.

Lastly I do need information on the compression tester. I don't have someone to turn the car on while I read the compression so I need to know if I can do this with a push button self starter. I don't want to fry something electrical.

Lastly, replacing a burnt valve? Is it worth it? Replace the head with a used head? Repair the current head?

I am not 100 sure it's a bad valve because not sure if the system would stop at higher RPMS.

Just not enough experience with these types of car so any help would be wonderful.

 

Relieve the fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump relay and cranking the engine.

You can crank the engine remotely by connecting to the starter solenoid circuit with the ignition OFF.

Hopefully, you have a repair manual so you do not create a car-b-que. But if you do, post pictures.

;-)

As for cylinder head replace or rebuild, consult a machine shop. They would need to have eyes on it, I suspect.

 

Never had a car-b-que!!!

Thanks for the info...

Yeah I went to the auto store for a manual but not in stock...

Thanks for the links but I need to smog this guy because registration tags say November...I paid but without the smog won't get tags...

Stupid light turns on two weeks before the registration is dues.

 

Need a bit of help...

Removed harness
Removed two bolts
Removed fuel relay ... Cranked engine
Removed gas cap

Tried pulling on injector rail lightly and nothing. Before I give a real hard tug want to make sure I am not forgetting something.

Should I pry it from a specific place?

 

Never mind .. Called a friend and was able to just pull a little harder.

Well swapped injectors and still cyl1 misfire...

Unless someone has any ideas I am leaning towards a burnt valve. Just not sure why the issue is only present at idle and seems to clear up at higher RPMS.

 

Compression test readings...

Cyl 1....55 psi
Cyl 2-4....150-155 psi

Cylinder 1 is bad for sure....

My plan now is remove the head...

I need any advice...

Take this head in for rebuild? Cost?

Saw a rebuilt head on eBay for 388.00?

Buy a used head locally? What price am I looking at?

Thanks in advance!

 

what did you end up doing? I am in a similar boat currently. changed spark plugs, did valve adjustment and switched coil packs. Going to skip injectors and check compression. My engine has 150k but I think previous owner(s) did not do a valve adjustment which has led to a scorched valve. Going to do compression test later today. Let me know what you did!

 

I have a 2006 Element LX 5 speed. I have codes P0300 - 301 - 302. Hesitant to start up but has never fully failed. Idle is usually pretty smooth but still kicks once in awhile and there is smoke coming out of the pipe regularly. The power actually seems pretty decent but I don’t push it. The oil looks good but it burns off a quart probably every 300 miles. Check engine light flashes when I am driving but sometimes will stay lit for a continuous period of time. I have not done a compression or leak down test. I replaced each spark plug as well as the coils and saw some improvement but it did not solve the problem. I was told to replace the fuel injectors next but I’m not sure if it’s worth it. I plan on selling my Element soon (unfortunately) and would appreciate any advice as to what steps I should take next. Thanks in advance!

- Baby

 

If you are really BURNING a quart of oil every 300 miles, you have serious engine problems (rings, valve guides/seals, etc.), problems that are not cheap to repair and that are not likely to be fixed by replacing a few, small, external parts. Oil burning has nothing to do with fuel injectors, so forget that. Sell the car without spending another penny, but be honest with potential buyers that it is an "oil burner."