[Twilightzero]

Very nice Me likes!

Were you using my template for doing the mounting brackets? I adjusted the side holes out 1/16" inch after I did mine because my holes came out too narrowly spaced by about that much. Sorry if it's messed up a bit, let me know what needs to be moved and I'll post a fixed version!

The other thing about the template is you need to be REALLY sure to center the drill bit absolutely exactly in the center of each mark because it is quite precision measured. And after you're done drilling, make sure you ream the holes out with a thick rat tail file to re-round them.

I love the look though!

 

[toolbox]

Hey thanks, but yah, it was that template, I tried to just nudge it over after I made a hole, but the bit would just bend and go back in to the old hole, so I had to flip the steel over to the other side and drill there. I ended up remeasuring the holes myself and making my own template using a quarter inch piece of plywood with holes in it.

 

[jrt]

Were you using my template for doing the mounting brackets?

I think the problem is in the printing. If you make a pdf file of a template, it's always a good idea to include an index mark like a one inch line just so people can make sure the spacings are correct once it's printed.

That said, it's 90 mm outer hole to outer hole and 45 mm center to outer on the mounts. So anyone can print out the template, measure the distance between holes, then scale the printing accordingly.
I appreciate you posting a template- I printed it out, but it printed a bit small for me. So I just measured the car and it worked out fine.
I've just about finished my homemade rack mounts- I need to download the pictures and post them- I think you'll like it.

 

[jrt]

OK, I just downloaded some pictures. Dang, this site is picky about pictures. I'll use photobucket.
Here's a bracket- I cut a piece of aluminum channel tubing that I had bent to my specs into four pieces, then drilled them and painted with appliance epoxy (the best!!). Thanks again for the template- that's what gave me the idea for using U channel.

Then just bolted them up

Then I milled out the plastic covers, so the go back on.

Put the covers on:

And done. A friend gave me some 48" crossbars (yakima), but I think I might just buy some longer ones. Then again, the price was right on these...

 

[Twilightzero]

Very nice jrt, I like the aluminum U channel! It's definitely more elegant than my original, if I can find some heavy duty U like that I'll probably re-do my brackets like that!

Thanks for the note about the PDF...I admit I didn't check a printed copy after I converted it - I did all my printing directly from the CAD program I was using. :roll: I'll print out a copy tomorrow and double check it and correct if necessary.

The rack looks great though!

Note: A good way to check the printing is that the total length of 1 bracket piece SHOULD be 4.75" left to right.

 

[Twilightzero]

Holy CRAP!

I just printed out the PDF and it's WAAAAAY off. The PDF conversion must've shrunk it down to fit in its own margin definitions. Piece o' crap program...


I'll post a corrected copy in the morning and change the link on the original post.

My sincere apologies...:-( *grovels for forgiveness*

If you do print out the old one, the bracket should be 4 3/4" across. Looks like Acrobat prints it out at something around 4 3/8" instead.

Gawd I feel like a tool.

 

[jrt]

Eh, computers. They'll always find a way to mess with us.

I had the U channel made. Any decent welding/metal shop should be able to make some. They just put flat stock in a break and bend it to fit. 2 feet cost me 20 bucks. The legs are 1 1/4" and the rise is 2". If I get ambitious, I may take it all back off and cut it so that it rises at an angle rather than straight up. Kind of like / \ instead of |...|

 

[paulj]

With these bent aluminum channels, I was going to ask if you were compensating for the front to back angle of the mounting pads. But if you are just going to use cross bars that isn't much of an issue. You can see the need for such an angle in the middle image of post 99.

paulj

 

[jrt]

No, I didn't compensate for the angle. I didn't even notice it until I had everything mounted up. Since - as you say- I'm just using round crossbars (and u-bolts to hold them fast), it isn't an issue.
I am definitely going to need a fairing to reduce the patented Yakima howl.
J

 

[Twilightzero]

Ok I finally found a way to fix the bracket template PDF so it prints correctly. Sorry for anyone who printed them out and made their brackets swiss cheese :-( The original link at the beginning of the thread is the fixed version. Hope it helps!

 

[imozes]

Where to get the 6mm X 16mm bolts for roof rack

It's been a while since there were posts on this great DIY roof rack, but that I thought I try asking my question anyway. I'm trying to make this rack, but need to first locate the Hex Bolts the that will fit the threads in the roof. I found 6mm X 20mm bolts but they seem to be the wrong pitch. Was told they're "standard" and I probably need "fine." Any ideas. Googling hasn't turned up anything. (By the way, I have a 2003 CRV, not an Element, but I assume the bolts would be the same ... could be wrong.)

 

[Twilightzero]

It's been a while since there were posts on this great DIY roof rack, but that I thought I try asking my question anyway. I'm trying to make this rack, but need to first locate the Hex Bolts the that will fit the threads in the roof. I found 6mm X 20mm bolts but they seem to be the wrong pitch. Was told they're "standard" and I probably need "fine." Any ideas. Googling hasn't turned up anything. (By the way, I have a 2003 CRV, not an Element, but I assume the bolts would be the same ... could be wrong.)

Not 100% sure. I checked on Honda Automotive Parts and all it shows for the roof rack on the CR-V is a few nuts, no bolts. The nuts are M8, but they may be for holding the roof rack together rather than to the car.

What year/trim CR-V do you have? You also might want to check over on the CR-V Owners Club to see if they have any info on the rack bolts. I have some left over from mine and I can take a look at them tonight and see what exactly they are. Just post here or send me a PM if you need more info



Edit: If you end up needing the same ones from the Element and don't want to search around for them, you can always order them from here: Honda Automotive Parts - CR-V Roof Rack although I'd personally want to get stainless bolts instead. If you know exactly what you want, you can always try this page on McMaster Carr which will take you right to Stainless metric bolts.

 

[imozes]

Thanks, Twilightzero! I have a 2003 CRV LX 2WD auto. After looking at Honda Automotive Parts site you linked to, it looks like the part no. for the CRV bolts is the same as the one for the Element ... although there is no picture for the CRV. It also looks like they use a Torx screw, but it's still M6 (6mm X 16mm), so it should fit the same.

It's possible that the reason the 6mm X 16mm bolt I tried didn't seem to work is because I didn't force it enough. Some other posts talked about getting through the paint, so perhaps the paint fooled me. I need to try again (which means another trip to pick up the 6mm X 20mm bolts I was able to find ... but didn't buy!)

Stainless steel is no big deal for me because I only intend to leave the roof rack on for the short time(s) I need it to carry some lumber/plywood (not much).

 

[Twilightzero]

Careful with the 6mm x 20mm bolts, there's not a whole lot of clearance under the bolt receiver so that may be too long. Also get some lock washers to go under then or you'll have them vibrating loose. Let me know how it goes, and bring a socket wrench - it'll help

 

[imozes]

Thanks for the warning. The good news is that the 6mm bolts do fit the CRV threads! The bad news is that there's much less space on the CRV to accommodate the angle-iron, or U channel design (1.16 inch max). I don't have a drill press, and I don't think I could be sufficiently precise to do it with my cordless drill. Nor am I inclined to go to welding shop ... too much hassle. When time permits, I think I'll try making something up in hardwood, which I have lying around. It's more forgiving, and won't be left on too long anyway (as mentioned earlier), so weather is not a concern. Will post again when I've got something to show.

 

[Twilightzero]

How are you meaning less space? Are you talking horizontal space across the rack mount opening? I'm confuzzled

 

[Dom.five]

Or you may wish to fab it up out of starboard. I use it in the marine industry.

It's strong, light weight, and works like wood. It comes in BLACK !! I have used it to make swim platforms and ladders. I use the 3/4 inch thick stuff for the added strength. It has a texture that looks like the plastic panels.

http://www.kingstarboard.com/Products/Starboard.aspx

There are other manufactures as well.

Dom

 

[imozes]

How are you meaning less space? Are you talking horizontal space across the rack mount opening? I'm confuzzled

The foot of the "L" bracket, which is attached with 3 bolts, needs to be 4 3/4" X 1", and that's about all the space available in the mount opening. If I drilled the holes slightly off (e.g. not exactly at the 1/2'' mark), I'd have no room to move the bracket slightly to accommodate.

Note to Dom.five: Thanks for the tip on Starboard, but I'd need 1" X 1" stock to work with, not sheets.

 

[Twilightzero]

The foot of the "L" bracket, which is attached with 3 bolts, needs to be 4 3/4" X 1", and that's about all the space available in the mount opening. If I drilled the holes slightly off (e.g. not exactly at the 1/2'' mark), I'd have no room to move the bracket slightly to accommodate.

Note to Dom.five: Thanks for the tip on Starboard, but I'd need 1" X 1" stock to work with, not sheets.

Just using a smaller angle iron should solve it then...? I would think a 1" angle iron would be fine, just move the hole drilling accordingly.

 

[Dom.five]

Note to Dom.five: Thanks for the tip on Starboard, but I'd need 1" X 1" stock to work with, not sheets.

The vast majority of places that sell it, around this neck of the woods, will cut it for you. It does come in 1" thickness. You can have them cut it 1" long if you like. That would give you a piece 1"x1"x4' long. I think I would go with a 4" long section then cut what I needed. For the 1"x4"x48" chunk, I paid 12$.

Dom