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Electronic Load Detector Replacement (ELD) Shortcut

109K views 40 replies 17 participants last post by  Rayc  
#1 ·
After searching through threads to get the Part Number and TSB for the replacement of the ELD to fix the Dimming Headlight problem I decided to put a post together that has it all in one place (Sticky???).

Name: Electronic Load Detector
Part Number: 38255-S5A-003
Elements effected: Any that has dimming headlights when gas pedal is released
Cost: +/- $30

Service Bulletin: http://jphangingout.googlepages.com/ELDBULLITEN05034.PDF

Ok now for my $.02. The fuse box is kind of a pain to remove. Well it was for me anyway. If you want a quick shortcut to keep from removing the fuse box all you need is a thin blade screwdriver.

First, follow the steps in the TSB for disconnecting battery etc. but stop when it gets to the removal of fuse box (step 3). Skip steps 4,5 and 6. When you get to the part where you pull the ELD out there should be enough slack on the wires/plug for the ELD that you can pull the ELD part way out and expose the plug. Here you can use the small screwdriver to depress the release tab on the plug. It will be right in the middle on the passenger side. Just push it in and pull up. Here's a shot of the ELD removed:

Image


Next take the screwdriver and from the drivers side exert just enough force on the underside of the plug to plug it into the new ELD. This should slip in relatively easily.

Image


Just to be sure the clip is inserted you can get at it from the passenger side and push upwards a little more.

Image


After that you can reassemble everything according to the TSB. Hopefully this helps.
 
#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
I used your shortcut last week to install my ELD. Man it was a snap!! I don't think it took 15 minutes for everything from start to finish and best of all my lights are steady bright with no more flashing/dimming. Thanks again!!
 
#3 ·
SO this happens on both my 08 Pilot and my new Element. Should I have the dealer do the Bulletin/Service on the new E or is there something better to doing it myself with an alternate setup?

(I'm assuming do this as a bulletin through the dealer...)
 
#5 ·
Bowser... I am surprised that Honda has not rectified this problem. Normally when there are repeat discrepancies through several model years they do something about it. It is called "improvement".
 
#4 ·
I think there were some bad ELD's or something. Its a $35 part from the dealer. Its not that hard to do. I'd say just give it a go yourself. Unless you want the dealer to tool around with it cause you know they'll have to keep it for a while.
 
#6 ·
Please tell me about your armrest and engine damper.:-D
 
#8 ·
Jackson49: The Armrest is just the factory storage armrest. And the Engine Torque Damper is the Ingalls Engine Torque Damper. That can be found by doing a search on here. It used to be that you could order them from Honda Ghandi at TC Customs but sadly they are no longer in business.

Bowser: I could be just me but I swear that the car idles better now too. There was a major vibration (partly from the torque damper) but it subsided greatly after replacing the ELD. Could it have caused it to idle lower? Possibly. Just my experience though.
 
#15 ·
I had a pretty good load on my system. Aftermarket HU, 2 amps, AC, headlights. And before the ELD replacement it dimmed alot. to the point where the car would sputter a little. Not much but i could notice it. After replacing it there's no problem. As far as any other dimming on other Elements, maybe replace the battery? I know the stock battery looks almost like a lantern battery. Its small!! I put in an Optima 34 red top battery and with a little adjustment to the mounting bracket got it to fit. That 800cca 1000ca battery does a good job keeping the lights on.
 
#19 ·
What the? Where has this thread been hiding? I've SWORN I've seen dimming headlights, but could never prove it. Also, have occasional strange load issues when the engine idle 'changes'. Hard to explain. But I AM covered under this TSB, so time to get to work.
 
#20 ·
I'm a tad confused.

My '04 VIN is within:
2004 Element (4WD):
From VIN 5J6YH2...4L000001 thru 5J6YH2...4L037697
TSB says the failed part is no. 38255-S5A-003
HondaPartNow says that's the '06 part (ok, fine)
I looked up my '04 on a couple parts sites to doublecheck the info from the TSB, and there is no part number listed on the parts diagrams, despite it being pictured on both. Usually it shows the old part number, and the new replacement part number...
 
#21 · (Edited)
I'm a tad confused.

My '04 VIN is within:


TSB says the failed part is no. 38255-S5A-003
HondaPartNow says that's the '06 part (ok, fine)
I looked up my '04 on a couple parts sites to doublecheck the info from the TSB, and there is no part number listed on the parts diagrams, despite it being pictured on both. Usually it shows the old part number, and the new replacement part number...
Instead of having different parts diagrams for each year Honda uses one for all years. The TSB is likely an older one. 38255-S5A-003 is the correct eld for all years. This is a rare case where the replacement part is identical to the defective part.
 
#22 ·
Had some time. Did the replacement today. Shortcut worked great.

Aside:
When resetting power window afterwards (I always do this part wrong) I noticed something. If you hold the switch full up or full down too long, you can hear a little click from behind the door panel. I know it's supposed to be 2 seconds, but I always missed, THOUGHT I got it right, then got mad when the window wouldn't operate at all. So... now I know I'm not crazy, and my door isn't "special", (just me). If I hear the click.. I start over.

FYI, using passenger switch on driver door allows driver window switch to work again.
 
#23 ·
could this be a problem with my 2001 v6 accord?
my symptom is that the volts drop while driving. I keep thinking its a bad alt but I have not tested the alternator yet. I did install a good battery and the volt still does the same thing. drops volts really low. from 14.x volts to 12.x . its gets more random as I keep driving it.
 
#30 ·
Early '03 ELD not replaceable!

Two days ago in hot heavy traffic, my radio cut out. Looked at my scan gage and saw 9.8 volts. Turned off Ac and radio came back on. Remembered ELD discussions here and found this thread. Got part number and called dealer for availability. Dlr sez bad part number. I went out to actually look at ELD in under hood fuse box. Mine is a flat brown thing! Absolutely nothing like in pix at beginning of this thread. Have any '03/'04 E owners had to replace entire under hood fuse box due to symptoms described in this thread? I am going to change out drive belt soonest as first step to prevent recurrence of voltage drop. Belt is due anyway. I have a 5 month old battery from Costco that seems just fine. Scan gage shows voltage tops at 14v and goes up and down from 14v to 11.6 corresponding to RPM. Mostly well above 12v. Any thoughts as I would like to see more 13v+ readings on the scan gage. Thanks to all.:?
 
#31 ·
Two days ago in hot heavy traffic, my radio cut out. Looked at my scan gage and saw 9.8 volts. Turned off Ac and radio came back on. Remembered ELD discussions here and found this thread. Got part number and called dealer for availability. Dlr sez bad part number. I went out to actually look at ELD in under hood fuse box. Mine is a flat brown thing! Absolutely nothing like in pix at beginning of this thread. Have any '03/'04 E owners had to replace entire under hood fuse box due to symptoms described in this thread? I am going to change out drive belt soonest as first step to prevent recurrence of voltage drop. Belt is due anyway. I have a 5 month old battery from Costco that seems just fine. Scan gage shows voltage tops at 14v and goes up and down from 14v to 11.6 corresponding to RPM. Mostly well above 12v. Any thoughts as I would like to see more 13v+ readings on the scan gage. Thanks to all.:?
Looking over some Google images of other Honda ELDs it looks like the flat style could be removed and possibly replaced without swapping out the entire fuse box. Of course I don't know for certain though. :?

Here's a thread that may be of interest to you and others showing how to bypass the ELD on other Honda models which may have the ELD style that your early model Element has installed.
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/139844-how-to-eld-bypass-for-honda-civicaccordfit/
 
#33 ·
Wow! OK! I don't want to bypass the ELD but I do see how to remove the flat one and install the new indicated part with the bus bar re-installed also. You both are the best! Thank you. Will order the part Monday and proceed from there. I really want to see how the bus bar goes thru each ELD, the old flat one and the new one.:)
 
#36 ·
Wow! OK! I don't want to bypass the ELD but I do see how to remove the flat one and install the new indicated part with the bus bar re-installed also. You both are the best!Thank you. Will order the part Monday and proceed from there. I really want to see how the bus bar goes thru each ELD, the old flat one and the new one.:)
You're quite welcome, I hope it works out for you.
 
#34 ·
Elementery, FYI, I have had a Scan Gauge hooked up to my 2008 E since it was new. The voltage has always topped out at 13.8 volts and goes as low as 11.5 volts. I don't know what the voltage is supposed to be at the OBD II port, but I have never had an electrical problem even though the voltage fluctuates. Hope this puts your mind at ease. My first battery lasted 5 years.
 
#35 ·
Same here, since 07. It' really a weird system as compared to "regular" alternators. Start the engine on a 20* morning the starter is straining to crank it over. I get to the first stop and the voltage is 11.5 ish.Turn on the lights or the blower and it will pop up to 13.8. Never had a dead battery but on the 3rd one with only 54k. My drive to work is 3 miles so it never gets a full charge.
Really a silly system.