Welcome, Hideekeo.

 

Knock Sensor Code

Last summer a knock sensor code came up - didn't pass emissions.

2003 E automatic 140k miles.

My mechanic replaced the knock sensor; although, he believed that this wasn't the issue. He said that they rarely go bad. After replacing the sensor the code came back on. The check engine light (knock sensor code) will disappear for many months and then show up for about a one hundred miles and then shut off. My mechanic believes that this is something the dealer has to diagnose - it has something to do with the car's computer needing to be cleared and rebooted or something. I called the dealer. They informed me to bring the car in the next time the light comes on. The challenge is trying to coordinate the light issue with bringing it in...it's now nine months later.

Anyone else have an issue with this I wonder.

 

Even if you do "bring it in with the light ON" there is no guarantee of an accurate diagnosis if the actual fault isn't still present when the vehicle is being inspected.

The light only means that a fault has occurred.

It doesn't mean that the problem is present the entire time the light is illuminated.

Since your issue is extremely random, odds are not in your favor for a "fixed right the first time" experience, unless the technician advises what turns out to be a lucky guess.

 

error code PO 325 knock sensor

Dan, after having the starter replaced and driving off mechanics lot the service light goes on. I had a buddy check the code to keep the mechanic honest. Does starter replacement have any connection to knock sensor? Also, easy enough to replace myself? Accessible or pia?

 

No direct connection that I know of, but it's possible that the mechanic knocked the wire off the sensor or otherwise damaged it. I haven't done this so can't say how hard it is to get to.

 

The knock sensor is located under the intake manifold. The best access is from below. You will have to remove the lower splash sheild to get at it.

MIL On With DTC P0325?

Check the Knock Sensor
Connector
Currently Applies To: ’06–09 Accord, ’06–09 Civic
Si, ’06–09 CR-V, and ’06–09 Element
Troubleshooting a vehicle with the MIL on and DTC
P0325 (knock sensor circuit malfunction)? Don’t just
rush off and replace the knock sensor. The knock
sensor connector might be the real culprit. Some of
these connectors might not have been properly
plugged in during assembly, which could lead to an
intermittent DTC P0325.

To fix this problem, give the knock sensor connector
a gentle tug. If the connector comes right off, plug it
in and make sure it’s secure. Then clear the DTC,
and retest. If the DTC doesn’t come back, you’re
done. But if it does—or the connector was secure to
begin with—then continue with normal
troubleshooting.

If you are lucky it will just be a loose connector.

 

Emissions Light/Knock Sensor Code

Hi All,

My little "malfunction indicator lamp", shaped like an engine, has been coming on and off intermittently. I bought a new gas cap thinking maybe that would solve the problem, it didn't.

So today I brought it into the Honda dealership and they retrieved the code P0325 - Knock Sensor. The technician also reports "has no signal" when talking about the sensor.

I read on a related post that a faulty knock sensor is very rare. I my case, based on the fact that the knock sensor gives "no signal", positive that I have faulty sensor?

A sensor from Honda in VAncouver is $270 and another hour for labour... So expensive!

I am hoping to DIY this one. Anyone have any experience with it? Is it super hard? I hear its under the intake manifold? Do I have to remove the IM? I replaced my starter and had to remove the manifold so it won't be too hard for me, just time consuming. Is there a chance that I damaged the knock sensor when I changed my starter? Also, is there a chance that the problem is only a loose connection? I guess it could even be a possibility that the Honda tech did not properly check for a loose connection?

Thanks for any guidance!~

Kellen

 

Thanks lizzurd for your help. I did see your post you directed me to in my earlier searches. I imagine I may have bumped it when I was changing the starter. I will try the method you mentioned.

How can I test if my knock sensor is working?

Also, the dealer said that if the light comes on and I then replace the sensor, the light will always come on because there was, at one point, a fault. He then said that the only way to reset it is to have a scanner or have a dealer do it for me (they charge 66 bucks to do it.)

 

Knock Sensor Nightmare - HELP ME!

We bought a used 2003 Honda Element in pretty good shape.

We bought it in Chicago and drove i to Delmar Delaware, about 900 miles.

We had it checked before we made the trip at a honda shop. It had been sitting in a garage for almost a year so it had the usual problems, fluids etc.

The main issues were the windows, both the mecanics were broken. We had those fixed. We also had the battery and cable replaced and an oil change.

My wife left the shop and about amile down the road the check engine light came on. Not want you want to see before a 14 hour trip.

So she turned around and went back. Code was PO325 - knock sensor.

The mechanic said it wouldn't affect the driving and sent us on our way.

She made the trip without stopping (well she stopped for gas, but no rest). 900 miles, no issues.

The car then sat at our house for 2 months while we got the money together to get it tagged titled etc.

We got our tax money and decided to start getting it fixed. So we took it to the shop.

This isn't a licensed dealer, it's kind of a back woods guy. He is licensed in his own shop but he's not associated with Honda. Jack of all trades type.

All he did was clear the code and sent us on our way. He said "you don't want to replace something unless you are sure its bad, if the code comes back on bring it back"

.5 miles down the road the check engine light came back on, so we took it back and today he replaced the knock sensor.

I get a call and his first words are "you've got a potential nightmare here".

Well.. wtf does that mean?

He says the code is still there after replacing the sensor. He also said that the sensor bracket or sling or something had already been replaced. So #1, the guy who sold us the truck knew about this and didn't tell us. He also said that even though the housing or bracket or w/e was replaced, the knock sensor itself wasn't. So he did that.

He then said he "went online to a forum" (maybe here?!) and saw that this is a typical problem with 2003 Hondas and "even Honda doesn't know what to fix it"

He said it could possible be the ECM or something computer, or a wiring problem in the bracket or something else.

He said it won't affect the vehicle and again, sent us on your way.

I'm not OK with this. On the 1 hand i don't want to go to the dealer and get taken for a ride, but I also don't want a mechanic to tell me he doesn't know how to fix something.

Has anyone else had this problem? Can you help me with some advice?

We are hoping to have this vehicle for a long time, thats why we bought it. We don't want to drive around with a check engine light on. What if something else goes wrong?

HELP!

 

This may help. Watch the entire video and read the commits.

 

Knock Sensor Triggering Check engine light

About 3 Months ago the Check engine light turned on my 2008 Honda element w/ 106,000 Miles and I recently had it hooked up to the Code reader and the Code for the knock sensor came up by itself, They reset the code and I drove from Miami up to Fort Myers and 3 days after I arrived the Light turned On again and I made the mistake of getting the Knock sensor changed and light turned off and code reset, As soon as I left the Firestone parking lot the Light the light turned on again. I turned around and took it back and when they hooked it up the code for the Knock sensor alone came up AGAIN! They said they already changed it and it could be the wiring or something bigger like a faulty computer, I dont get it because this has been the only code coming up ever

Anybody had this issue and know a possible solution that can narrow down my problem for me??????????

 

Have the connector checked. This is a known issue.

 

Thank you Very Much. Taking it Monday

 

Knock Sensor Replacement

I have an '04 DX that has a faulty knock sensor. No real detriment to engine performance, but my engine light is on and that will make me fail my emissions test (OCM will register it as a fail). I found a DIY for a Civic that says the easiest way to get at it is to remove the rad support cross rail to allow more room to get under the intake manifold. I know it's a different vehicle, but the location appears to be the same. Is this the best way to go or is there better access from underneath? Here is the link to the DIY:

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/diy-honda-civic-engine/273970-diy-replacing-knock-sensor-p0325.html

Thanx for any help you can provide!

 

I just changed my knock sensor. Despite what the Youtube videos (which mainly seem to be about the CR-V) say, you cannot access the sensor from above. As per the service manual, you must remove the plastic air dam from the bottom of the car and reach up to the sensor. This is easier said than done. I found getting to the sensor with my big hands a RRPITA.

I suggest that anyone with a high-mileage engine who has to replace their starter (which requires removing the intake manifold) should consider replacing the knock sensor at the same time, even though it costs about $60. There is no better time than when the intake manifold is off to swap out the sensor, and it's the only time you would be able to clean the contact on the connector.

Oh, and after replacing the sensor, I reset the error code three or four times, and it kept coming back on. I was resigned to having the engine light on forever and checking every week or so to make sure a new code hadn't popped up. But after a couple of hours of driving, the light went out. Go figure.

Service manual:
Helm Inc.
H&A

 

I just changed my knock sensor. Despite the Youtube videos (which mainly seem to be about the CR-V), you cannot access the sensor from above. As per the service manual, you must remove the plastic air dam from the bottom of the car and reach up to the sensor. This is easier said than done. I found getting to the sensor with my big hands a RRPITA.

I suggest that anyone with a high-mileage engine who has to replace their starter (which requires removing the intake manifold) should consider replacing the knock sensor at the same time, even though it costs about $60. There is no better time than when the intake manifold is off to swap out the sensor, and it's the only time you would be able to clean the contact on the connector.

Oh, and after replacing the sensor, I reset the error code three or four times, and it kept coming back on. I was resigned to having the engine light on forever and checking every week or so to make sure a new code hadn't popped up. But after a couple of hours of driving, the light went out. Go figure.

Service manual:
Helm Inc.
H&A

X2 a real pita.........I just did the knock sensor also. I had to have my neighbor with small hands help me...............:evil:

 

My car was fine until I brought it to the dealer to replace the airbags. When it was in they diagnosed a bad stabilizer bar and repaired it. Now when I make a left turn I hear a bang or knock the engine light is on and the code is knock sensor

 

Funny you mention that. My Dad's 2003 Element had the light come on today and I scanned it, Knock Sensor Fault. I replaced Starter in June and he had the airbag replaced by the Dealership in September. Related? Who knows.

 

Knock Sensor—What did I do—How to replace?

Please see the attached pics of the knock sensor. How did I manage this?

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/458/18486296645_516c9730b9_z.jpg

Background:
Starter failed. We replaced ourselves. Got the knock sensor P0325 code. Seemed like no one who replaced the sensor actually solved any problems. So, we were going about the trouble shooting on the assumption that the knock sensor itself was fine. As you can clearly see, that assumption was wrong in our case.

I can only assume this damage occurred during the starter replacement, but we have no idea how.

For those who tackled this themselves, what tool technique did you use to replace the sensor, and do you think it will be especially difficult to get the broken piece out of the connector?

My plan of attack is to see if I can get a crescent wrench on it from underneath after dropping the air dam or splash guard. I could also see a strap wrench working. What did you do?

 

The knock sensor is a bear to get at. I was only able to change mine from underneath the car. Removing the broken part from the connector will be just as challenging. You'll need long arms, small hands, and plenty of patience for both tasks. As a last resort, removing the manifold will give you much better access.

 

We did the starter by removing the manifold, so we can do that again. I'd like to try from underneath.

In another post I see you replaced yours. What tool did you use from underneath? A crescent? Strap wrench? Other?

 

Don't remember, frankly. A deep-well socket should work (use the replacement part to determine the size), though getting the wrench and socket into place with the manifold on will be challenging. An offset box-end wrench should also work, with the same limitation.

You may find that pulling the manifold again will actually save you grief in the long run.

 

If you can get enough slack in the knock sensor harness to allow access you may be able to drill a small hole in the broken piece of the sensor, then screw a self-tapping screw into it. That will give you something to pull on while you release the harness connector latch. Just don't drill too far. You might strike oil.

I have also seen people heat up a nail held in a pair of pliers then stick the nail into the plastic. After it cools use the nail as a handle. I have never tried that.

 

K series know sensor is a 17mm I believe, I just recently did this on my moms CRV and previously on my RSX. I had broken mine installing a starter as well.

Use a deep socket and a long extension for the socket, you need the joint that flexes as well because you will need to remove it from underneath. It really isnt that hard just sort of tricky because of the angle allowed and minimal space.

 

FiAsco, how about an update?

 

Did you ever find out/fix the issue? In a similar situation now. Would really appreciate some perspective.
Thanks!

 

I'm not sure what the problem is, but once more after I cleared the initial code, the next week my Dad told me the light came on briefly, but then turned off again. I checked the code and it was stored, but the check engine light was not on.

I ended up ordering an inexpensive knock sensor from a seller on Ebay. I paid $9.57 but now they have lowered the price to $7.99! http://www.ebay.com/itm/221263685696?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This is just a trial-and-error but it is cheap enough, so who cares. I don't know what the problem is, perhaps a faulty sensor. The plug and connection was tight and he has fueled up more than a few times, so I doubt that bad gas is to blame.

What I did was, remove the throttle body and the air intake rubber tube. I was able to access the knock sensor this way. You have more room through the side where the throttle body is, although I was able to sneak my other hand in between the power steering pump and the intake manifold. I used a deep well socket (1/2" drive) and then a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, and then a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and then tighten the new knock sensor. This gave me plenty of room between the ratchet and the intake manifold.

I don't have tiny hands and I think that this method is far quicker and easier versus removing the intake manifold or "somehow" accessing the knock sensor from below. I looked from below and I couldn't even see it!

Just be careful not to drop any bolts or nuts from the throttle body. This Element is BY FAR the worse for "eating" dropped bolts. They just seem to disappear when they are dropped in the Element's engine compartment. Very frustrating to deal with on every repair that I perform. Honda Elements feast on dropped hardware!

 

...What I did was, remove the throttle body and the air intake rubber tube. I was able to access the knock sensor this way. You have more room through the side where the throttle body is, although I was able to sneak my other hand in between the power steering pump and the intake manifold. I used a deep well socket (1/2" drive) and then a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, and then a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and then tighten the new knock sensor. This gave me plenty of room between the ratchet and the intake manifold.

It's been a while since I visited the forum...225k miles, light came on (bought her at 63k). ^^ This is the way to do it, I spent maybe 30 min total on the replacement, no laying on the ground. 27mm deep well and a 1/2 drive U-joint are also key to remove/torque. Connector looked clean and wire looked intact, so I'm hoping a new Napa sensor will do the trick.

 

code p0325(knock sensor) trouble shooting...???

i read another thread about the p0325 code with no real answers to fixing the issue(i tired to link i but it wont allow me to put links in since i barely post

Ive read how the connector is an issue. I got my hand under the intake to play with the wire. It was plugged in all the way.. I reset the code and it came back on in a couple minutes.

I bought a new knock sensor but im wondering if i can plug it in without removing the old one to make sure it will work if i replace it. I dont want to install it and have the dtc come back on and waste $60 bucks, napa wont return it if its used. so can i plug in the new one and check out the new sensor without screwing it in or does screing it in ground it so the sensor works correctly?

the starter was recently replaced is it possible the wire got pinched? it doesnt seem anyone has given an answer in the thread i linked above as to what the culprit is for the p0325 dtc

Im about to tackle this knock sensor along with replacing the top strut mounts to get rid of the creaking.. hopefully by the time im done with the top mount some one will hve responded about connecting the knock sensor without installing it.. here goes nothing

 

Threads merged. No need for another thread on this topic, Broque.