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Replacing the serpentine belt—how-to

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serpentine belt tensioner
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#181 · (Edited)
I replaced my belt last Friday. Thanks to EOC, it was easy. I used the two wrench method. I didn't have to loosen anything else.

The old belt didn't look too bad so I probably could have waited a while longer, but at 82k I figured "why not."

I purchased the belt from my local dealer.
 
#182 ·
Just finished doing my belt using the 2 wrench method. I used a 27mm wrench that is almost 2 feet long for the leverage. Advice: if doing the wrench method by yourself, wear a heavy pair of mechanics gloves when pressing on the wrench. Hardest part was fishing the belt around the water pump. I pushed the belt down from the top. Currently @ 72k miles, first belt. Old belt was not worn, but I'm getting a nice rust line on the inside of the hood from the belt pelting it with water. Next project, valve adjustment.
 
#185 ·
Just replaced mine after noticing squeeling early in the morning. With pulling and cleaning out the starter and changing the belt in the last couple of weeks, I'm getting a little too intimate w/ the Element.

But changing the serpentine was easy. Turned the wheels right, partially removed the bottom plastic panel, and used a open end 14mm and long torque wrench (that's all I had). Bando belt was purchased on Ebay for $19.06 after ship. Done in 20 minutes.
 
#186 ·
I debated on doing this myself and wish I would have. I had it done last year and now I'm noticing a little clicking / ticking noise. I recently had my transmission fluid changed at Honda and the service rep told me to "watch the drive belt tensioner because it was "loose". Does this mean I can just tighten the tensioner? Any info is appreciated, thanks.
 
#187 · (Edited)
iamperplexed said:
I debated on doing this myself and wish I would have. I had it done last year and now I'm noticing a little clicking / ticking noise. I recently had my transmission fluid changed at Honda and the service rep told me to "watch the drive belt tensioner because it was "loose". Does this mean I can just tighten the tensioner? Any info is appreciated, thanks.
Click to expand...
The tensioner is spring loaded and can not be adjusted. If it wasn't Honda that replaced it they may have used a poor quality belt. I've never heard of one making a ticking noise. The valves are supposed to make a ticking noise so maybe that's what your hearing.

Try this... Open the hood and stand on the passenger side. Have someone start the engine and turn on the A/C then with there foot firmly on the brake put it into drive. watch the tensioner to see if it's bouncing and making noise. If it is replace the belt and inspect the the tensioner to see if the spring and pulley is good. I had to replace mine.
 
#188 ·
Rick92040 said:
The tensioner is spring loaded and can not be adjusted. If it wasn't Honda that replaced it they may have used a poor quality belt. I've never heard of one making a ticking noise. The valves are supposed to make a ticking noise so maybe that's what your hearing.

Try this... Open the hood and stand on the passenger side. Have someone start the engine and turn on the A/C then with there foot firmly on the brake put it into drive. watch the tensioner to see if it's bouncing and making noise. If it is replace the belt and inspect the the tensioner to see if the spring and pulley is good. I had to replace mine.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. When I noticed the noise (it's faint, during acceleration) a few weeks ago the first thing that came to mind was valves. I'm at 126k with no adjustment. Shame on me I know but now that I'm in Portland, we drive less and less. 6k miles in the last 2 years so I have to really remind myself stay on top of any maintenance other than oil.

I'll give it a listen as you suggested and again, thanks for the info.
 
#189 · (Edited)
I just replaced my serp belt on my 2008 EX with approx. 152k miles....I believe it to be the original belt ! It was just showing signs of 2 short superficial cracks going along its length maybe 1/4 inch long ...mind you not going across the belts width...When I got the belt off the first thing is it felt brittle - so I decided to try and fold over one of those 1/4 " lengthwise cracks and the belt literally folded over a 6 -8 inch crack completely bisecting the belt along its length ...YIKES ..so it was waaaaaay over due for replacement and I consider myself lucky it didn't separate on me going down the road. So you cant really go by looks alone per se on these belts mine "looked" fine but really was on the brink of splitting soon.

As far as replacement goes I had the Lisle tool and it was still a pain in the xxx to get off. The power steering line was preventing the skinny 14mm socket from getting on the tensioner ....I finally got it on and off with a few curse words here and there ,,,the Honda Engineer who routed that power steering line exactly there causing the interference should be fired lol..... I took the passenger wheel off and the access panel to expose the crank - very easy to remove 2 - fasteners removed with screwdriver. I then fed the belt up from the bottom first threading it around the crank and comp , then with a piece of small rope attached to it pulled it upward toward the top of the motor around the other pulleys etc . I couldn't believe how strong that tensioner spring is for such a small motor - pretty healthy - takes a good amount of leveraged pull to get it fully unsprung to remove the belt. Saved some money and now have piece of mind on my long haul trips - no worries.
 
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#190 ·
With the help of this thread (THANKS to all that added to it!!), I changed mine at 90,869 (belt still in decent shape, but...). Used a 14mm open end and a large socket on a 1/2 ratchet to loosen and tighten. Still a pain, but, 'tis done for a while..... :shock: :razz: :razz: :)
 
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#191 ·
I had a mechanic do the lower control arm bushings after I replaced the motor and transmission mounts. The shop said it was my power steering pump making the whining bearing noise. I ordered the pump on line had them replace it. Turned out the pump was fine and the alternator and tensioner were bad. So now the new cheap power steering pump is leaking. I guess I'll end up replacing the belt now too since its covered in ps fluud now and just put in the old pump. I was just leary of the two wrench thing but rereading the posts I think I'll manage.
 
#194 ·
I just changed my belt this morning. 15 minutes tops. I was a little worried at first since there is 14 pages to change one belt and I didn't have the special tool. I did the double wrench method which worked great. No special tools needed.
 
#195 ·
I replaced the alternator this afternoon. Worse part was getting the #!@$%$#@% serpentine belt back on. I'll pay someone to replace the belt.
 
#197 · (Edited)
Been dreading replacing the serpentine belt on my 2005 Element but at 103k it was past time. Read through all these posts, watched the videos online. Thanks to collective knowledge here, I ended up doing it in about 15 minutes and it was probably the easiest bit of DIY I have ever done on my Element, and I am just a weekend warrior mechanic with an average tool set.

Tools used: Small flathead screwdriver, 14 mm combo wrench, 1/2" socket ratchet

Useful: Belt diagram from beginning of this thread (thank you whoever put that together)

Belt type: Bando 7PK1765 (OEM supplier) purchased via eBay for $19.37 (no tax, free shipping). Autozone = Dayco for $29.99 not including tax or delivery, so I saved about $12.00 right there.

1. Turn wheels all the way to the right

2. Remove 3 clips that secure the plastic "fender" guard to expose the main drive shaft area at bottom of engine. You use the small screwdriver to pop out the clips (2 clips at top, on on underside of frame). Push guard out of the way.

3. Put 14 mm combo wrench box end on tensioner. Wrench should be pointing straight up and pushing a bit against the power steering hose.

4. Put 1/2" socket ratchet into open end of 14 mm combo wrench. Combo wrench should hold it just about perfectly. Angle ratchet handle a bit towards windshield for extra leverage.

5. Pull ratchet towards you about 12". Belt should be plenty loose to pull off top pulley. If you have a helper, have them push it off, preferably with a tool to protect their hands in case you lose a hold on the tensioner. I was able to do this without a helper though.

6. This part was so helpful: Do NOT pull old belt out. Tie new belt to old belt then go under to drive shaft area and pull the old belt down. New belt will be threaded down through pulleys.

7. Detach old belt. Thread new belt over drive shaft and water pump pulleys.

8. Return to top and thread belt through remaining areas, checking belt diagram to make sure everything is in the correct place. Make sure belt aligned correctly.

9. Pull back on wrench to release tension. Slip new belt onto last pulley. Assure alignment is correct, then restore tension.

10. Bump engine 3-4 times to check that belt is correctly aligned, then start engine and observe belt for 30 seconds to assure it is operating normally.

11. Turn off engine, replace clips into fender guard over drive shaft area.

Finished. So easy. No expensive use-once tools needed. Thanks to everyone who added to this thread and made it so simple for me. Save yourself $100 and do it yourself.
 
#198 ·
Mine took 10 minute using a pair of small WalMart combo wrenches (without any offset) plus 5 minutes instructing my wife how NOT to pinch her fingers as she slipped the slack belt over the last lower pulley while I released tension from above. I insisted she NOT touch the belt with her fingers.

I think this might be a tricky one-man job using two small WalMart combo wrenches. But it's easy with two people or with one person if you have the proper tools at hand. Mine are in a 20 foot container in the Atlantic Ocean at the moment.
 
#199 ·
best tool setup for replacing serpentine belt

Replace the serpentine belt on the E today, this thread was really helpful.

Not having the special tool, I was a little concern how smooth the job would be.

So this is what I use:

Double box wrench 14mm on one end and 15mm on the other end
Breaker bar (the half inch fitting fit perfect in the 15mm box end)
Zipties ( to hold the breaker bar against the front of the car while the belt is loose)

I was really surprise how easy and smooth that tool setup workout, try it out.

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Zipties shoud be more HD for safety, I tried to keep my finger away from between the belt and the pullies:roll:
 
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richardleecummings
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