[KDS6116]

Tension pulley

The Tension Pulley should be replaced as well. It's not worth doing twice.

 

[bearded]

Another successful belt change

Changed out my belt last weekend following the advice in this thread. Thanks guys.

Taking off the right front tire and opening the plastic panel made it much easier. It doesn't take very long and saves time and frustration.

I tried the Harbor Freight belt tool, but couldn't get it on the tensioner. No 14mm comes with the tool and my socket was just a bit too long. I ended up using the 2 linked combo wrenches technique. It works like a charm! I was worried about the stress on the wrenches - they were nothing special (Huskys). No problem.

At first I couldn't get enough slack in the belt to make it around the alternator, then realized it was riding half on the AC pulley. Once it was down in the trench it fit fine.

Then while getting the 14mm socket off the tensioner nut, it slipped and disappeared. I checked under the car - no socket. I checked the pulley's, etc. - no socket. Finally, I saw a faint glint inside the strut mount. There's an opening on the engine side and the socket had found its way in there. When I tried to pull it out with a magnet, it kept catching on the edges of the hole in the frame and falling back in. The solution is to go in from the firewall side of the strut mount with a long magnet. Of course, the real solution is - don't lose the socket in the first place.

Good luck.

 

[davidjones]

With the above guidance I also learned a lot.

 

[vbourdin]

Did mine last weekend thanks to this post and the following video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-akgsLnG-KQ

Was so simple, I could do another one right now...

Vince.

 

[JC ver 3.0]

Replaced my belt this AM, guessing right at 30 minutes.
Not much to add to this thread but a few observations;

Installed the DAYCO 5070695 7PK1765

Did not jack up and remove the tire. Turn the wheel all the way to the right and you'll be fine. I'm 63 and have various issues and this was good enough for me.

Removed the three retaining clips covering the lower belt area. One little note, this was taking some time getting the first one out. I was thinking, OH ****, I'm going to break one of these! About then it just popped out. Took a look and noticed that there are a couple of slots between the small plastic screw and the round retainer. Use a screwdriver with a narrow enough blade to fit in the slot and they are easy to remove. Other two came right out.

Used the two wrench combo method to release the tensioner without any problems. I didn't not loosen anything else. On my car there was plenty of room. Justed uses a 14mm box end with a slight offset.

Removed belt from the top and back away from tensioner, gradually released the tensioner. Tied the new belt to the top and pulled from the bottom. IF anything catches, stop, I twisted my belts sideways and slid them down a little and then came right out.

The rest is pretty much feel, review the diagram, and feel your way installing the belt on the bottom belt guides. Then reconnect your wrenches on the tensioner in such a way as to be out of the way when you go to install the belt on the top pulley/wheel.

Went in pretty easy. While holding the tensioner I used the side of the screwdriver blade to help guide the belt up and onto the pulleys.

Checked the tensioner to make sure it was showing a "good" reading, reinstalled everything and took it for a drive.

Downside, didn't need to replace the belt. Had one small loose thread that didn't penetrate into the belt. NO CRACKS so I don't know what the dealer was talking about. Thought about taking it in and asking them to show me the so called cracks. No it makes me wonder about everything they said was needed. May take it in to another dealer to have checked out.

Going to hang on to it for a week or so but if this belt doesn't squeak then I may sell it for $5 and shipping to anyone on here that wants it.

Anyway, that's my experience and thanks to everyone who posted.

I'm going to check into what "upgrading" my membership entails. I've gotten a lot form the forum and want to give a "little" back.

 

[Island E]

It's called upselling. Take it in with the new belt on and see if they try to tell you the same BS about cracks and stuff. If they do, find yourself another dealer.

 

[deoxy4]

No issues with my belt but I am going to replace it on my 2003 in the spring. Looking around for a belt this looks like a good deal.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321894212102?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Marv]

Replaced my serpentine belt at 74k. Basically exactly as Freddy the Elements post #197 above, even down to the 05 MM E. Thanks to the whole thread and Box4Rox great routing diagram it went smoothly. I'd say about 30 minutes but it was 35 degrees F and I'm sloow. The old belt was far from shot but had a fair number of cracks through ribs and it seemed like as good a time as any.

 

[Rootieboy]

No need for a special tool. The two wrench idea worked perfectly. I didn't even have to loosen the bolt for the power steering tube. You can do this all by yourself in about 10-15 minutes

 

[Biblethumpncop]

My alternator went out at 135k this week, and the tensioner pulley was making a little noise, so I replaced both and the belt today. I used two wrenches together, thanks to the advice on this thread. I tried to put the belt on the alternator last, but couldn't make it work. I was able to put the belt on the power steering pulley last in order to make it work. I didn't have to remove the tire or loosen the hose on the fender. Hope that info helps someone!

 

[Tomik]

I replaced my 2008 with 64000 miles, took me half an hour to do it. I used open ended wrench and Jack handle With my son's help.my belt did not look good,I'm glad I did it and feels good to save money. Thank you for the detail instruction by every one in this post.��

 

[halfahum]

My alternator went out at 135k this week, and the tensioner pulley was making a little noise, so I replaced both and the belt today. I used two wrenches together, thanks to the advice on this thread. I tried to put the belt on the alternator last, but couldn't make it work. I was able to put the belt on the power steering pulley last in order to make it work. I didn't have to remove the tire or loosen the hose on the fender. Hope that info helps someone!

Probably a good idea to do that. Tensioners are crap in modern cars anyway. Or wait till it goes out and replace the belt a second time.

 

[bmwrider]

Replaced mine today at 72K miles. Used Bando brand, which I guess is Honda OEM, US made part. Old one looked fine and goes in spare tire well just in case. Used 2 wrench method. I didn't have a helper but not hard to do. I left new belt in the sun for a while to soften it up. I put belt around PS pulley last, same as how I took it off.

 

[OD 2004]

Finally replaced at 137,000 miles. Funny thing is, my instrument, radio and climate lights went out after. Wth....?

 

[bigblue]

Serpentine Belt Replacement

I replaced my original belt this morning after just over 100,000 miles. I used the double wrench method on the tensioner. The lower part of the belt kept slipping out of position on the lower pulleys while I was wrestling with the upper part, so I ended up using duct tape to temporarily hold the lower part belt in position. Finally got it on!

 

[bork]

Did mine now at 105k Using double combo wrenches. Thanks for all the advanced tips everyone, & thought I better do pulley, so last night I just replaced pulley only with an Advance Auto Dayco , because I see it used a Japanese bearing NTN? BUT the only thing I noticed different on pulley was, there is no lip or stop like the OE. Look like bearing was pressed in and maybe epoxied. Hope I dont regret not buying genuine Honda part.

 

[pedals]

Don't be afraid to tackle the belt yourself!

Thanks to all for the good advice and work arounds I've read, I did the tensioner yesterday afternoon and finished the belt this morning. The only difference I did from what I've read is I went in from the bottom with the belt from the access panel and worked upward. I used a 14mm offset wrench and a 1/2" drive socket on the 15mm end to pull the tensioner.
Kudos for those with the tip about having to remove the tensioner pulley anyway to access that second bolt. I used twine from the hood latch to hold the PS pump out of the way. It was far easier doing the belt than the tensioner. It's a great feeling to conquer the seemingly impossible just from looking at it. Thanks again to all for this great forum.

 

[sneyeper]

So glad this thread is still here! Was able to tackle this easily tonight using the double wrench method on our '07 @ 71k miles. Thanks to everyone for all the tips and of course the OP!!

 

[donco87110]

Just replaced the serpentine belt yesterday. What a royal pain! I do not recall any automotive repair task in the last 50 years of wrenching on dozens of cars as difficult as this. Next time it's due, I'll let the shop do it.

 

[asinblue]

anyone have the diagrams or pictures? Original post pictures are not displaying. Going to replace the belt on a 2008. Thanks

 

[psschmied]

Deleted by poster