[gene]

After reading this thread I figured it would be an easy job. I used the double wrench method, old belt came off without a hitch. Putting the new one on was mission impossible. New belt was not even close to going on the top pulley or alternator pulley. Ended up putting the old back back on, no problem. Took the new belt back to the dealer verified that it was indeed the correct belt. Watched a mechanic put same belt on in a couple minutes.

 

[JoeB35]

Question about idler/tensioner pulley

Bought my 08 Element with 80k miles back in 2012 (now has 230k miles) and just changed the serpentine belt for the first time (I know should have changed it way sooner) utilizing this post and some youtube videos.

I ended my belt installation with the lowest rear pulley while holding the tensioner right my right hand using the wrench & 1/2 in ratchet method. I had a hard time ending with the power steering pulley for some reason.

After installing the belt and turning the car on, I watched to make sure the belt stayed on while the car was idling. I noticed that the idler/tensioner pulley adjusts slightly while the car is operating. Is this normal operation or should the idler/tensioner pulley not move at all?

Thanks for you help in advance.

 

[Tedman]

Tool

Put 2 wrenches together and you don't have to buy a special expensive tool.
The guy in this video shows you how, at about 16 minutes into it.

 

[rlgray]

I also used a offset box wrench with 14mm on one side and a 15mm on the other. The 14mm fit the tensioner and a 1/2 inch breaker bar fit perfectly in the 15mm end.

 

[Fitwise]

I also used a offset box wrench with 14mm on one side and a 15mm on the other. The 14mm fit the tensioner and a 1/2 inch breaker bar fit perfectly in the 15mm end.

Did mine today. Replaced the original @ 174,500. Went with the OEM Bando belt for about $27.00. Used a combo wrench and a ratchet with a 1/2" drive for the open end. I originally borrowed a universal tool from the local auto parts store but I couldn't get it to fit. I'm glad because having the ratchet enables you to get the most range of motion on the pull (very crucial). Left the tire on and didn't remove anything but the two clips in the wheel well. Thanks to all who have posted before! Saved at least $100.00!

 

[Jersey Steve]

As far as replacement goes I had the Lisle tool and it was still a pain in the xxx to get off. The power steering line was preventing the skinny 14mm socket from getting on the tensioner ....I finally got it on and off with a few curse words here and there

I just did this job today on my 08 E. If you disconnect the power steering reservoir from it's mount, it makes things easier. Disconnecting the reservoir is as simple as using a screw driver to bend back the retaining tab slightly and then lifting the reservoir up and off it's mount. Then the reservoir and hoses can be moved out of the way.

Between disconnecting the PS reservoir and taking off the front wheel/plastic shield, this was a pretty easy job. The belt was a little tight to fish up into the engine bay, but nothing too bad. About a 10-20 minute job to replace.

sm

 

[bosun120]

It seems like there is a wide range of when everyone is replacing their serpentine belts (from 60K-170K).

Is there a straightforward method for visual inspection of the serpentine drive belt, to check whether it needs replacement? Or is this service being done more as a preventative maintenance?

The service manual says there should be an auto-tensioner indicator (A), but the reference images aren't very clear.

 

[bosun120]

Also, do you also recommend/have to replace the auto-tensioner (31170-RAA-A02) and/or pulley (31180-RAA-A01), when replacing the serpentine belt?

RockAuto has some statement that you should replace both together.

 

[bosun120]

Does anyone have any answers and/or responses?

 

[DCM]

Does anyone have any answers and/or responses?

I don’t replace those parts unless they need to be replaced. If the idler pulley is noisy and rough, you can replace the bearing…but don’t drop the nut out the back when you undo the bolt!

 

[Hylourgos]

Helpful post, thanks. Recently I posted a super easy diy tension bolt wrench setup, requiring only an offset 14/15mm wrench, a 1/2“male to 3/8”female socket adapter, and a 3/8” socket wrench. Mentioning it here in case anyone is frustrated with the cheap universal tensioni tools out there like I was.

 

[psschmied]

I replaced the belt on mine last month using a combination 14mm box-12mm open end wrench and a 25" breaker bar. It worked better than improvising for the missing shallow 14mm of the rental sets the autoparts stores have. The swivel of the breaker bar let me apply torsion without putting side force on the combination wrench.

The wrench wasn't the hard part. Figuring out how to get the belt down around the pulleys withiut twisting it was.
It's a job made easier with a new Banso belt than a old shelf-stock Gates.

What I ended up doing was pinching the belt flat, putting a long dowel rod in the pinched end and pushing it back under the tensioner and down behind the main crank where could reach up and grab it. I looped it temporarily over the AC pulley until I could lift it over the crank, and AC compressor. ThenI went on top and did the PS pump and put the wrench in place. Then I could move the tensioner all the way back and put the belt over the AC compressor and under the tensioner.

 

[StephenBoice]

ouiji🤣 boards!
Great write up - still relevant years later - 😲 am printing out that diagram now

 

[Fitwise]

I replaced the belt on mine last month using a combination 14mm box-12mm open end wrench and a 25" breaker bar. It worked better than improvising for the missing shallow 14mm of the rental sets the autoparts stores have. The swivel of the breaker bar let me apply torsion without putting side force on the combination wrench.

The wrench wasn't the hard part. Figuring out how to get the belt down around the pulleys withiut twisting it was.
It's a job made easier with a new Banso belt than a old shelf-stock Gates.

What I ended up doing was pinching the belt flat, putting a long dowel rod in the pinched end and pushing it back under the tensioner and down behind the main crank where could reach up and grab it. I looped it temporarily over the AC pulley until I could lift it over the crank, and AC compressor. ThenI went on top and did the PS pump and put the wrench in place. Then I could move the tensioner all the way back and put the belt over the AC compressor and under the tensioner.

I zip tied my new one to the old one and pulled it down through.

 

[psschmied]

I zip tied my new one to the old one and pulled it down through.

I've done that but until I figured out exactly where to pull it through, I always got the new one twisted. The route I tried last worked so n]much better than just pulling the belt down that I'd never do that way again.

 

[Nnelson]

Many thanks to all who contributed! After the dealer said the belt is EXCESSIVELY WORN, I picked up a Bando unit and used the two wrench method successfully. I must say, at age 65, this should be the first job of the day, not the last. I needed all my strength to ease the tension while walking the belt over each groove at the end. Our garaged, Sunday driver 2010 has only 62k miles, and my wife and I couldn’t find any cracks or frayed ends; the belt looked fine.

For this and other exaggerated warnings, we are changing dealers.

 

[Fitwise]

Many thanks to all who contributed! After the dealer said the belt is EXCESSIVELY WORN, I picked up a Bando unit and used the two wrench method successfully. I must say, at age 65, this should be the first job of the day, not the last. I needed all my strength to ease the tension while walking the belt over each groove at the end. Our garaged, Sunday driver 2010 has only 62k miles, and my wife and I couldn’t find any cracks or frayed ends; the belt looked fine.

For this and other exaggerated warnings, we are changing dealers.

I put over 174,000 on my original belt.

 

[klrman]

Where do you guys get your OEM belts from? Up here Honda dealers says the belt has been discontinued for my 04 element.

 

[DCM]

I just get whatever brand name looks decent on Rockauto.

 

[Franco_D]

Where do you guys get your OEM belts from? Up here Honda dealers says the belt has been discontinued for my 04 element.

I got a kit with Gates belt and new tensioner assembly from Rockauto. Not sure you need OEM, but that's up to you of course. Previous belt was not OEM either, and was on for around 100,000 mi. Tensioner pulley bearing was not quite gone, but I did notice that the engine was quieter with the new one installed. Double-wrench method worked fine for me to R+R belt.