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post up how much the dealer wants to cut/program the ridgeline key. I have a feeling mine in NY will want 100-150 to do this.
 
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So i have this under the steering wheel

Do i just look for the part number is 35111-SHJ-305?

is that all that matters?

most ebay sellers dont post this information so i asked like 10 different sellers for the part number.

any tips?

i went to a local shop and they wanted to charge me 76 bucks to cut and program the Key, they also wont believe me and wont do it unless i buy the key first.
The thing is that behind the key i only see the FCC ID number and some other number under it, thats basically the same as the FCC ID.
Where can i find the Part number on the Ridgeline Key?

sorry for all the questions but since i only Have 1 Key without the remotes i kinda need a replacement.

Peace
 
just got the key(35111-SHJ-305) but i didn't have time to get it programmed today, same as the previous posters, printed it out and brought it in. Neither think it will work but said if im willing to spend the 110 for install and 55 for the key they will gladly try to do it but if it doesnt work its my $165 key, also they said its the same price to program 1 key as it is to program a second so I bought 2.

hope it will work!
 

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There is some conflicting info on this thread. More than one poster said a chip needs to be removed from an existing key that starts the car. Obviously this means cutting into the key. Another says, this isnt the case. An ebayer says the remote can be self programmed but the immobilizer chip needs to be programmed by the dealer. Is this true? also whats the difference between this part 35111-SHJ-305 and a $4 key fob shell? OEM vs non OEM the only difference? IF the $4 uncut key fob shell works and all I have to do is remove the chip from my key, put it in the shell and take it to the dealer to get cut and programmed, that seems simple enough. Let me know if I answered my own questions.:-o
 
I honestly had to make them cut the key after about 30 minutes of telling the it would work and they needed to find out more about the product they were selling...I laughed at them when I drove off with my new key
I work at a 'stealership' and the info we get about the product from the manufacturer is slim to none. They do not provide any 'cross fit' info of any kind. If a part for one model fits on another, the only way we know is that the part number is the same for both models. Remember that all the parts are made to be specific fit, the days of 'universal' parts is long gone.
And if some smartass like you told me I needed to know more about the product I sell the price would go up about 50%, or maybe I'm just out of stock of it this week. :roll:
 
There is some conflicting info on this thread. More than one poster said a chip needs to be removed from an existing key that starts the car. Obviously this means cutting into the key. Another says, this isnt the case. An ebayer says the remote can be self programmed but the immobilizer chip needs to be programmed by the dealer. Is this true? also whats the difference between this part 35111-SHJ-305 and a $4 key fob shell? OEM vs non OEM the only difference? IF the $4 uncut key fob shell works and all I have to do is remove the chip from my key, put it in the shell and take it to the dealer to get cut and programmed, that seems simple enough. Let me know if I answered my own questions.:-o
I've seen a few different types of keys sold on the internet for the Hondas. Some keys need a transponder installed into it to make it start the car. Some keys have the transponder molded inside so programming is a must.
Perhaps one of our local Honda Parts Specialists will chime in on this matter.
 
I am the Parts Specialist.

I really have not explored any genuine Honda key from Ridgline or Odyssey keys, I believe the folks who say that a 35111-SHJ-305 will take keyless module program however the immobilizer chip will need to be programed with an HDS (Honda's Scan tool) there is the labor problem there. Here is how I did mine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G36aalGlnaM


I've seen a few different types of keys sold on the internet for the Hondas. Some keys need a transponder installed into it to make it start the car. Some keys have the transponder molded inside so programming is a must.
Perhaps one of our local Honda Parts Specialists will chime in on this matter.
 
Type 3 and type 4 Immobilizer systems

Indeed I did some research the 35111-SHJ-305 will work for type 4 Immobilizer systems so 08-11 Elements. This will need to be done by a Honda Dealer with an HDS. For 03-07 Elements the 35111-SHJ-305 will not work because they use the type 3 system which is not a rolling code. Video to better explain coming soon.
 
Indeed I did some research the 35111-SHJ-305 will work for type 4 Immobilizer systems so 08-11 Elements. This will need to be done by a Honda Dealer with an HDS. For 03-07 Elements the 35111-SHJ-305 will not work because they use the type 3 system which is not a rolling code. Video to better explain coming soon.
Thank you for this information and video. So according to your video the Type 3 is used on '03-'06 and Type 4 '07-'11, correct? Someone posted on page 1 that the Ridgeline key worked on their '07.
 
Thank you for this information and video. So according to your video the Type 3 is used on '03-'06 and Type 4 '07-'11, correct? Someone posted on page 1 that the Ridgeline key worked on their '07.
According to my Strattec key catalog and a Ilco key catalog online, the 2003 to 2005 Elements use the type 3 system, and the 2006 to 2011 use the type 4 system, as the transponder keys offered break at these years.
As I said in an earlier rant, the manufacturer gives out almost no info about crossing lines from one year to the next or from model to model. Over the years I've used many different aftermarket catalogs to read between the lines of my factory catalogs.
I would like to do the Ridgeline key mod myself as I personally don't like lots of pocket junk. I just wish I could get a keyless entry pad for the door, like on my two Fords, then I wouldn't have to carry a key at all.
 
35111-SHJ-305 May work on early E's

My thoughts are that the type 4 rolling chip could be programmed to the early models. Because they are all re-writable chips in theory without the cars computer re-programing it the unique ID would just stay the same instead of roll. If folks say that it works with 07's then I would believe them.
You still need to get that one programmed with an HDS, unable to avoid the labor cost. As far as the years that use each system is up for debate I will show my source here: Honda SB 01-053 and 02-053

And a I agree that Honda does not give us any cross refrence because they can't, the FCC #'s wouldn't match and they would be in violation of some BS fed law.
 
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