Daytime Running Light Mod for the Honda Element
Objective:
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Installing:
There are a total of four wires that will have to be cut, and one that will be spliced, if you're squeamish about cutting the OEM wiring harness, this is probably not a mod you want to do. Please understand, I know this mod works - I have it installed in my E. But, I have no idea of anyones electrical skills, therefore if you try this mod and totally bugger up the wiring, It's not my fault. As long as you follow the schematics and descriptions posted - it will work as stated.
Three of the wires that need to be cut are in the Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box, UDFR. The "C" connector contains four wires, they are:Also the one wire that needs to be spliced is also in the "C" connector:The other wire that must be cut is at the LEFT HEADLIGHT #2 the RED wire with a YELLOW stripe. This wire will be connected to RLY5. If you are using a standard automotive relay, use the following terminals
As the schematic shows, the wires will be cut and a set of relay contacts inserted. There are two places where it is REQUIRED that you get the correct wire to the correct terminal of the relay, please note that the UDFR - C2 wires and the LEFT HEADLIGHT wires need to be correctly placed on the relay or the circuit will not work correctly. I have noted in the simplified schematic where the wires go. Notice the difference between the wire going to the connector and the wire from the harness - that is referring to the same wire but after it has been cut.
I'll will be building another circuit board and installing into an E in the near future, at that time I'll make some pictures and the whole process should be much clearer.
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Circuit Description:
This modification will give the US version the same Daytime Running Lights, DRL, as in the Canadian Element. The bright lights will come on at reduced voltage when the ignition switch is in the "RUN" or "II" position as long as the parking brake is not set. However, unlike the Canadian version, if the parking brake is set after the DRLs come on, they will go out.
This mod will work as posted for any 03-07 Honda Element. It could possibly work with the 08 too, but I do not have the schematics for them so I cannot say for certain. If anyone can supply a copy of the US version headlight circuit, I can make certain this will work for the 08.
Power is drawn from the middle pin of connector "V", one of the "Option Connectors" in the Under-dash Fuse/Relay box.
The "V" option connector
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The terminal (V3) is fused through fuse 14, on a circuit that is only ‘hot’ when the ignition switch is in the “RUN” or “II” position. (If you prefer to have a method to override the DRL and turn the whole thing off place a SPST switch in line with the wire from the V3 terminal.) The DRL will function automatically without any intervention.
When the ignition switch is in the “RUN” position, the headlight switch is in the OFF position, the parking brake is not set, power is applied to the coil of relays 2 through 5 through the contact of relay 1.
The two headlight relays are energized by relay 2. The low beam circuit is opened by relay 3. The high beam circuit is opened by relay 4. The high beam circuit is modified by relay 5.
The four relays (2, 3, 4, and 5) come on - relay 5 modifies the power connection of the left high beam lamp effectively placing the two headlights in series by applying a ground while not altering the +12v on the other headlight. Effectively, applying half power to the two high beam lamps.
In the event the lights are turned on, either by the “Flash – to – Pass” or turning on the headlight switch, relay 1 energizes. This relay cuts the path for the power to relays 2, 3, 4, and 5. With the power gone to the coils of relays 2, 3, 4, and 5 the headlight circuitry returns to normal and the headlights function exactly as Honda originally designed.
When the ignition switch is turned off (or to “ACC”) the power is lost to the coils of relays which in turn shuts off the whole DRL circuit. There is no parasitic drain on the E’s battery when the car is turned off. The entire circuit is automatic, it's on only when the ignition switch is in the "RUN" or "II" position, and turns off anytime the light switch is turned on or the ignition switch turned off or to the accessory position or the parking brake is set.
Special notes:
A) the option connector (V) has three connections
...............................................................................................Parking
Ignition Switch Position----------Off------.I------Run----Start------Lights On .......Fuse
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Left "V" connection................. -......+12 .. +12 .....- .................-............... 8 (7.5 amp)
Center "V" connection .............- ........- ....+12...... - .................- .............14 (10 amp)
Right "V" connection ...............- ........- ......- ........-...............+12 ..............2 (15 amp)
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B) I recommend building a small circuit board with relays 1, 2, 3, 4 and the diodes then placing all this in a project box, and mounting under the dash.
C) Relay 5 should be mounted under the hood, as shown earlier. A super easy way to run the ONE wire necessary to the engine compartment is described by another EOC member K-Dogg in this post.
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Notes:
Due to requests I have modified the circuit to provide a way for the DRL to be off and still have the car running. Hence, the parking brake. That way, the circuit will work correctly as posted regardless of the type transmission you have. Additionally if you prefer - for whatever reason - to have a way to disable the DRL you can always place a SPST switch in the circuit from the V3 terminal. Just remember, if you do that the DRLs are no longer totally automatic - if you have the switch off the DRL will not work.
If you are planning to modify your lights, and have any questions, feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
Also - if anyone in the general Shelby area is planning to do this mod, please contact me - I really need to make some photographs of the process. (Consider that an offer for free help) ;-)
I'll get the PDF files updated and reposted in the next day or so.
The DRL mod for the SC is posted in post #28 the mod as described in this post is for all other versions of the Element .
Objective:
Modify the US version of the Honda Element to provide Daytime Running Lights, DRL. The modification should function identically to the Canadian version turn on at reduce voltage both high beam filaments. The process should be totally automatic, and not interfere in any way with the manual control of the lighting system. The lights should not come on if the parking brake is set.
Requirements:
3 high current 12v DC SPDT relays ( 20 amp or better ) RLY3, RL4, RL5
2 low current 12v DC ( SPDT ) relays (low current relays) RLY1, RLY2
1 SPST switch – any type. (optional)
3 1N4004 diodes
A hand full of wire and some time.
Schematic:2 low current 12v DC ( SPDT ) relays (low current relays) RLY1, RLY2
1 SPST switch – any type. (optional)
3 1N4004 diodes
A hand full of wire and some time.
Installing:
There are a total of four wires that will have to be cut, and one that will be spliced, if you're squeamish about cutting the OEM wiring harness, this is probably not a mod you want to do. Please understand, I know this mod works - I have it installed in my E. But, I have no idea of anyones electrical skills, therefore if you try this mod and totally bugger up the wiring, It's not my fault. As long as you follow the schematics and descriptions posted - it will work as stated.
Three of the wires that need to be cut are in the Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box, UDFR. The "C" connector contains four wires, they are:
- #1 - RED wire with WHITE stripe (low beam)
- #2 - BLUE wire with RED stripe (headlight relays)
- #7 - RED wire with BLUE stripe (high beam)
- #8 - GREEN wire with ORANGE stripe (parking brake)
- 85 - The wire from the engine compartment (power from relay #1 NO contact)
- 86 - Connect to ground.
- 87a - Connect the RED wire with the YELLOW stripe FROM the wire harness.
- 87 - Connect to ground.
- 30 - Connect the RED wire withe the YELLOW stripe FROM the connector.
As the schematic shows, the wires will be cut and a set of relay contacts inserted. There are two places where it is REQUIRED that you get the correct wire to the correct terminal of the relay, please note that the UDFR - C2 wires and the LEFT HEADLIGHT wires need to be correctly placed on the relay or the circuit will not work correctly. I have noted in the simplified schematic where the wires go. Notice the difference between the wire going to the connector and the wire from the harness - that is referring to the same wire but after it has been cut.
I'll will be building another circuit board and installing into an E in the near future, at that time I'll make some pictures and the whole process should be much clearer.
Circuit Description:
This modification will give the US version the same Daytime Running Lights, DRL, as in the Canadian Element. The bright lights will come on at reduced voltage when the ignition switch is in the "RUN" or "II" position as long as the parking brake is not set. However, unlike the Canadian version, if the parking brake is set after the DRLs come on, they will go out.
This mod will work as posted for any 03-07 Honda Element. It could possibly work with the 08 too, but I do not have the schematics for them so I cannot say for certain. If anyone can supply a copy of the US version headlight circuit, I can make certain this will work for the 08.
Power is drawn from the middle pin of connector "V", one of the "Option Connectors" in the Under-dash Fuse/Relay box.
The "V" option connector
The terminal (V3) is fused through fuse 14, on a circuit that is only ‘hot’ when the ignition switch is in the “RUN” or “II” position. (If you prefer to have a method to override the DRL and turn the whole thing off place a SPST switch in line with the wire from the V3 terminal.) The DRL will function automatically without any intervention.
When the ignition switch is in the “RUN” position, the headlight switch is in the OFF position, the parking brake is not set, power is applied to the coil of relays 2 through 5 through the contact of relay 1.
The two headlight relays are energized by relay 2. The low beam circuit is opened by relay 3. The high beam circuit is opened by relay 4. The high beam circuit is modified by relay 5.
The four relays (2, 3, 4, and 5) come on - relay 5 modifies the power connection of the left high beam lamp effectively placing the two headlights in series by applying a ground while not altering the +12v on the other headlight. Effectively, applying half power to the two high beam lamps.
In the event the lights are turned on, either by the “Flash – to – Pass” or turning on the headlight switch, relay 1 energizes. This relay cuts the path for the power to relays 2, 3, 4, and 5. With the power gone to the coils of relays 2, 3, 4, and 5 the headlight circuitry returns to normal and the headlights function exactly as Honda originally designed.
When the ignition switch is turned off (or to “ACC”) the power is lost to the coils of relays which in turn shuts off the whole DRL circuit. There is no parasitic drain on the E’s battery when the car is turned off. The entire circuit is automatic, it's on only when the ignition switch is in the "RUN" or "II" position, and turns off anytime the light switch is turned on or the ignition switch turned off or to the accessory position or the parking brake is set.
Special notes:
A) the option connector (V) has three connections
...............................................................................................Parking
Ignition Switch Position----------Off------.I------Run----Start------Lights On .......Fuse
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Left "V" connection................. -......+12 .. +12 .....- .................-............... 8 (7.5 amp)
Center "V" connection .............- ........- ....+12...... - .................- .............14 (10 amp)
Right "V" connection ...............- ........- ......- ........-...............+12 ..............2 (15 amp)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
B) I recommend building a small circuit board with relays 1, 2, 3, 4 and the diodes then placing all this in a project box, and mounting under the dash.
C) Relay 5 should be mounted under the hood, as shown earlier. A super easy way to run the ONE wire necessary to the engine compartment is described by another EOC member K-Dogg in this post.
Notes:
Due to requests I have modified the circuit to provide a way for the DRL to be off and still have the car running. Hence, the parking brake. That way, the circuit will work correctly as posted regardless of the type transmission you have. Additionally if you prefer - for whatever reason - to have a way to disable the DRL you can always place a SPST switch in the circuit from the V3 terminal. Just remember, if you do that the DRLs are no longer totally automatic - if you have the switch off the DRL will not work.
If you are planning to modify your lights, and have any questions, feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
Also - if anyone in the general Shelby area is planning to do this mod, please contact me - I really need to make some photographs of the process. (Consider that an offer for free help) ;-)
I'll get the PDF files updated and reposted in the next day or so.
