[Mikement]

Image heavy writeups are gooood! Thanks for your time on this!!!

 

[90 Shillings]

Did the swap today, piece of cake.

Thanks for the info. I put my macbook on my ram mount and followed along. Be careful on those three screws holding the unit in place. Use a large phillips. They strip out easily. Also, put the inside latch linkage in first.

** To reset the auto window feature, roll down, then up and hold the button for 10 secs.
:lol:

 

[erhard]

door lock replacement

thanks a lot for the nice instruction (panel removal and door lock replacement)
however i almost gave up when i came to the c-clamp removel. sounds almost impossible without the right tool and i do not know how you got this done in the cold colorado winter.
anyway i was ready to give up and go to the dealer until i realized that there is NO NEED to remove the door lock at all.
just remove all the links and continue as suggested by sliding the part out to the bottom (after removing and bending away the window rail).

btw mine was a honda elelement EX 2003 and door lock failed (115k miles).
honda dealer in california quoted
part: $70
labor: $220

i ordered the part from kragen $28+tax and spend 2.5 hours to do it

i put everything together and no parts and screws are leftover

thanks again for the instructions

Erhard

 

[Locksmith]

Two hundred twenty labor to pull a door panel! Good grief! Well... that is why I did the post, cause it's really not that hard. Were you able to keep the one key for all?

You're quite welcome,
Pierre

 

[erhard]

Just to clarify - $220 was for door lock actuator replacement not only for the panel removal but still thanks to your instructions i saved around $300.
without instructions one really does not know where you can pull and where not

erhard

 

[mightymattp]

C-Clip not doing its job any more

Thanks for this post - I followed your instructions and everything worked great! I slipped a looped wire over the C-Clip to pull it out. However, just the other day I used a key to unlock the door. By using the key, the lock pushed forward into the door, so I guess the C-Clip doesn't work to hold the lock in place any more. Has anyone else had this problem or come up with a solution? I originally had put the C-Clip back just like in the pictures of this thread.

 

[Locksmith]

...By using the key, the lock pushed forward into the door...

First I've heard of that. Have you gone back and checked your work and made sure that the lock "snaps" in place? It's possible that the c-clip got bent enough so it doesn't hold as well.

cheers
Pierre

 

[JB1]

Many thanks for this post!

I just finished replacing my front door speakers and dash tweeters. Your post and photos Really helped me a ton!

I needed to remove the door cover to be able to fish the tweeter wires through the rubber flex tube between the door and dash.

The only problems I had were breaking two clip connectors on the panels, one on each door. I'm not sure how I could have prevented that. but there are seven remaining connecters intact. So, I'm not going to worry much about it. I also broke of a screw cover under one panel door handle.

I didn't realize that it was hinged, so I pulled it off. Again not worried since it isn't very obvious.

Others getting ready to remove the panels might also want to be careful not to get the super thick grease on their fingers from reaching too far under the panel when pulling them off. The grease is used to hold the white plastic cover to the metal door structure.

 

[wombat90]

Is the white plastic for keeping moisture out? Has anyone removed this to run dynamat (or some type of substitute).

Do people usually replace it?

 

[acaver1]

Inside Door Latch

Thanks so much for the photos. They were of tremendous benefit. Got the old actuator out and the new one in. One problem though. When I put it all back together I forgot how the bar from the door lock that extends to the inside door latch was located. When I try to open the driver side door from the interior the latch no longer works. Does anyone have an illustration of the mechanical positioning of that bar? Obviously I put it in the wrong place and dont seem to be able to figure it out.

 

[acaver1]

Driver Side Power Door Lock Not Working - FIXED!

Driver Side Power Door Lock Not Working - FIXED!

The last photo with the blue clip was what I was looking for. I attached it to this clip and voila, it's working like a charm. Thanks for everything.

 

[Locksmith]

Driver Side Power Door Lock Not Working - FIXED!

The last photo with the blue clip was what I was looking for. I attached it to this clip and voila, it's working like a charm. Thanks for everything.

Schweet! Glad you got it taken care of.

 

[groundsquirrel]

Great info, thanks!

Just replaced my drivers side door lock actuator last night with the help of your post, thank you.

 

[Locksmith]

You're quite welcome.

 

[Horizon]

I've got a 2003 EX and I need to get the door panel on the passenger side off to bang out some dents. (The Honda shop quoted 1200 to remove the panel and refinish the dents, but a hammer will get the dent out and I've got touchup paint.)

This tutorial is great, and I've yet to endeavor it. Though before I do, my question regards the plastic shrink wrap that seems to be lining the interior of the door. How did you re-apply the plastic? Did you have to do a re-wrap, or was it sticky enough to just put back into place with some minor adhesive aid I could acquire from a hardware store?

Because I've not yet dug into the door yet, from your photo I've no way to tell if the plastic is there for insulation, to support material behind it, or for convenience of covering a bunch of wires. If it is the latter, that's easy. If it is for some sort of insulation or support, I don't want to remove it only to find I must re-shrink wrap that section.

Thanks for any help!
Dan
Olympia

 

[AztecRol]

I've got a 2003 EX and I need to get the door panel on the passenger side off to bang out some dents. (The Honda shop quoted 1200 to remove the panel and refinish the dents, but a hammer will get the dent out and I've got touchup paint.)

This tutorial is great, and I've yet to endeavor it. Though before I do, my question regards the plastic shrink wrap that seems to be lining the interior of the door. How did you re-apply the plastic? Did you have to do a re-wrap, or was it sticky enough to just put back into place with some minor adhesive aid I could acquire from a hardware store?

Because I've not yet dug into the door yet, from your photo I've no way to tell if the plastic is there for insulation, to support material behind it, or for convenience of covering a bunch of wires. If it is the latter, that's easy. If it is for some sort of insulation or support, I don't want to remove it only to find I must re-shrink wrap that section.

Thanks for any help!
Dan
Olympia

The white plastic is stuck on the door with a black tar like substance. It is
very sticky and will remain so after you take it off. It will be sticky enough
to reuse. Just be real careful with it, its nasty if it gets on your hands. As
for why the plastic is there, Im sure its some kind of thermal break. Keeps
the cold side cold and the warm side warm. Keeps condensation from forming
inside the door and rusting everything out.

Keep us posted and take pix of your work.

 

[TX Cheesehead]

window regulator

Just followed your photos to remove panel to replace the power window regulator. Having fixed two regulators on a friends Jeep Cherokee, I was bummed to think that my Element would have similar characteristics. However, instead of the plastic mounting breaking, the brace end of the cable broke. Still a $70 piece/frame/motor for a simple cable.

Only catch on this is being able to disconnect the window with 2 bolts from the regulator frame. You will either need to have your window already lowered (not possible in my case), or remove the 4 bolts (2 top, 2 bottom) of the regulator frame and just allow the whole assembly to slide down until you are able to see the bottom of the window through the access holes in the frame.

Also, removing the left hand corner of the window frame - ONLY done with window lowered the entire way!!

 

[dupmaronewS2K]

so someone, maybe me, puked on the door / inside the door the other night. Thank you for posting this because I finally got the majority of the smell out my car now by pulling apart the whole thing and cleaning out the inside

 

[Locksmith]

nice... party on!

 

[Smokin_Guns26]

nice

great pics very helpfull to all ele members keep posting any new work done