[2003]

Ok... so... I've have quite a few more problems on these 4 track ignitions and I've had about as much as I can take. These are turning out to be the most un-repairable locks in existence.
...
Seriously, what I've learned is that when the original wafers have gotten to the point of not lining up on the key, so has the channel that held that wafer in place. Meaning that even if you put new wafers in the lock the hole they go in is bigger than it used to be so the brand new wafer is sloppy as hell from the get go.

So I've had my E for 8 years, give or take, and have had the driver's side lock fail three times, the passenger once, and the ignition at least once, today being at least the second (memory's failing me, maybe the third).

This thread has been a big help -- with my most recent driver's side failure, I bagged a new cylinder for $35 on eBay and had the local locksmith replace it for $40. That's a deal (thanks to the detailed instructions, I didn't try it myself; probably could've gotten it if it wasn't my daily driver, but wow, that's a mess), and I feel better about the fix lasting longer than the first two. I couldn't care less that the keys don't match. So thanks very much there.

Quick new question: Is it possible to essentially "take the wafers out" of the ignition so that any key would turn it? Alternately if that doesn't work and I'm stuck with the worst case, any reason I can't take it to an automobile electric shop and get a push button ignition?

I'm so tired of the locks breaking. Number of times I've had someone break into the car? Zero. Number of times the ignition wouldn't turn and stranded me somewhere? Two. Thus ignition button/waferless idea.

I know I'm zombie threading a little, and I apologize. Thanks for any help here and for the good advice for the driver's lock. Love the vehicle other than this lock replacement mess.

EDIT: Looks like this might be a yes: http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=701841&postcount=28 Guess who?
A couple more links:
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15310 <<< pretty sharp too.
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=106463&postcount=6
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74937
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2360977&page=2

Now I just need to find a shop that'll do the work. /sigh

 

[Locksmith]

Quick new question: Is it possible to essentially "take the wafers out" of the ignition so that any key would turn it? Alternately if that doesn't work and I'm stuck with the worst case, any reason I can't take it to an automobile electric shop and get a push button ignition?

Welcome.

Yes you can remove the wafers. I have no problem doing that in certain circumstances because it's still a transponder and won't start unless you have a programmed key present. The negative side of that is being able to remove the key in any position. If you haven't turned the lock all the way back before removing the key, the ignition switch might not be all the way to off and you could kill the battery.

If you get a start button that only operates the starter then you haven't done anything to solve the key turning problem. My personal preference is remote entry/start. Eliminating the locks all together. My code lock and start button are there only as a backup if my remote fails. I do not use them daily.

 

[jambalaya]

Lot's of great remedies on this thread. I have the ignition switch problem. Found an OEM ignition switch product for about $200 bucks. Keys provided. I can get it installed for cheap. Has anybody gone this route. Seems the most straight forward way to solve the problem. If I had the time, patience,tools and skill to try Locksmiths solution I would try that but alas I don't. What do you think. Seems an easy solution to just replace it if you can get the ignition switch kit for cheap.

 

[Locksmith]

If the installer can program the keys too, that's not a bad deal.

 

[jambalaya]

If the installer can program the keys too, that's not a bad deal.

Can a locksmith program it for me or does it have to be a honda dealer?

 

[Locksmith]

If they do automotive, yeah they should. Call AAA and ask them what locksmith they use in your area. They should have the stuff to do it.

 

[jasoncarpenter1]

Big Thanks to you Locksmith..........:food004:
Just had my ignition leave me stranded. After a quick google search I came acrossed this thread. Back on the road with a few waffers removed..........:food004:

 

[Locksmith]

You're welcome. :food004: Just got home from work so I'm tipping one to you at this very moment.

 

[Daman858]

Very late to this thread but here is how to remove the ignition switch from your Element. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1f01ul35Y-U

I did this and bought as used switch off ebay for 60 bucks and installed it. Although I now have two keys, I rarely use the key in the doors, just the clicker. Accord and Odyssey vans use the same switch.

 

[ford]

Locksmith,

Just wanted to thank you for these instructions. They worked like a charm.

Steve

 

[Bross]

I must to thank Locksmith, your DIY on post 84 walked me through the whole process. My brothers E was having a hard time turning in the ignition, wafers out problem solved. I took lots of breaks during the process to save my sanity.

 

[hottub]

Thank you very much starting tomorrow

 

[hottub]

I just bought my element on fri and the ignition ate it on tues . i can do the removal , thank you very much, if i understand properly the key is coded to the computer somewhere so i always need it? is there a distance issue or is it detected by the ignition? can i make a workaround and a pushbutton start instead or does the key always need to be used?

 

[Locksmith]

You're welcome. There is a transceiver antenna at the face of the lock that energizes the chip in the key so yeah, the key has to be close to that for the immobilizer system to allow the car to start. If you want to install a push button start, the workaround could be as easy as just inserting a key in the ignition lock before starting or as complicated as an aftermarket bypass module for the immobilizer. What are your plans for the ign lock? Gutting it?

 

[hottub]

well i can't get to work or anywhere without a car so i was going to take it apart this afternoon per your instructions and at least get mobile. yes, remove wafers and see if i get going. then i can go get another whole lock insert and or key.

 

[Locksmith]

I hope you get it rolling. I'm going out of town tomorrow so if you have any questions I won't be able to answer till Monday. Good luck with the lock.

 

[hottub]

Did it. Done. Works great, started right up and took out first couple of wafers which were obviously worn and key works and is snug and proper..

 

[OzarkCountryside]

Thank you Locksmith!! Did this on my neighbor's 04 E ignition switch and saved her over $400. Was super easy. Took less than a half hour. Her switch did not have the first roll pin, just four screws and the two green wiring connnectors. I didn't have to drill the cylinder to remove the other roll pin, just drove it out with a small drill bit. Removed the wafers and back in action. One thing I noticed is that the key in door chime now chimes all the time when the door is open with the key out. Any suggestions? I know I could disconnect the one green wiring connector for that but does it affect anything else? Thanks, Paul - OzarkCountryside

 

[Locksmith]

You're welcome.

The key in ignition chime being stuck is probably the second black ring you removed from the face of the lock. There's a teeny tiny little switch on the inside that can get damaged if you're not careful. Remove and inspect it by plugging it in and pushing on the little button. If you broke it I'd say just leave it unplugged. That's one of the very first things I did to mine, no adverse effects that I'm aware of.

 

[VectorMagnus]

Thank you Locksmith for the detailed instructions. I followed them to the T and now my key will switch over, it will attempt to start, but now it will not crank. Any one have any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated!