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What happens if you delete the knock sensor? Remove it completely? Still throw a code? With so many of us driving around with defective ones, what difference does it make?
My understanding is that the error code means the computer is not getting a signal from the sensor, not that the engine is knocking. Something like 3 engine starts without a signal from the sensor causes the error code.
 

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I changed my sensor this weekend and it wasn't as difficult as I had feared. My light had been on for a while, intermittently at first and then most of the time and I had purchased the new sensor some time ago. It is really difficult to get at the sensor. I had put it off because of the difficulty and the potential that it was really a wiring problem. I don't have fat wrists and was still not able to get in past the intake manifold past the alternator.

I removed the air intake tube, but there wasn't enough room to get in through there.

I tried to go under the manifold and I could get my hand in under, but not far enough. What worked for me was to remove the rear plastic clips from the bottom cover, as well as the two clips in the passenger side wheel well, open up the bottom cover and then laying on the ground with my head toward the drivers wheel and my legs toward the passenger wheel, I could pretty easily reach up with my left hand to the sensor. I couldn't see the sensor from there though, so I had to do it by feel, but I could see the wire which helped. Also for visibility, standing looking into the engine compartment, I shined a light under the intake manifold from the alternator side, and was able to see the sensor by looking between the tubes of the intake manifold. From this point on, the procedure I used was:

1. Laying on the ground, reach up and remove the wire from the sensor. I think it was a pinch of the clip to release it, but it could have been lift up on the clip instead.
2. Standing facing the engine compartment, work a 27mm (1 1/16") socket with two short extensions in under the intake manifold .
3. I couldn't get it on the sensor easily, so I laid back down on the ground, reached up and guided it on.
4. Standing back up again, I put a breaker bar onto the socket/extensions combo. I used a breaker bar not because of the torque, but because of flex joint. Then I broke the sensor loose. It came free pretty easily, not rusted on.
5. I laid back down, reached up and unthreaded the old sensor by hand.
6. I had the new sensor ready and right away reached back up and threaded it in by hand. It wasn't difficult at all to get started. The location wasn't too hard to find again because it is round, a little bigger than the sensor.
7. Once it was hand tight, still laying on the ground, I guided the socket back onto the sensor.
8. Standing, I snugged up the sensor with the breaker bar, and removed the socket.
9. Then I laid back down and reached up and put the wire back on until it clicked.
10. Then I put the bottom cover back on, cleaned everything up and I was done.

It was a lot of up and down, but that was better than impossible contortions. The light has been off for a couple days now and I am crossing my fingers that this fixed it
 

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Video of Knock Sensor Replacement

After finding this video, I confidently changed my knock sensor and the P0325 code went off after five starts, and hasn't returned. Engine performance was noticeably improved as well.

This video is about changing the starter, but the knock sensor is removed within the first two minutes. Hope this helps everyone as it helped me, having a 1 1/16" wrench is key.

https://youtu.be/iInFsdsr5Hg?t=20s
 

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Changed knock sensor, but light light came back on... help!

Hello all!

I got a P0325 code on my 2003 (155k) Element and proceeded to replace the knock sensor. However, after 2 days the light has come back on and is still going on and off intermittently. I see there are several who have had this problem before. Anyone replace their knock sensor and still have this issue? If so, how did you resolve the issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!
 

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Ok, I have carefully read each post in this thread and am not sure I have come across my particular problem.
I have a 2004 Element with 262k miles and the dreaded P0325 code. However, I am having acceleration, idle, and fuel milage problems. It hesitates on acceleration and my mpg has gone from 23-25 on average to 15-18 mpg. I have changed my plugs and run Seafoam top end cleaner through it with no improvement. I guess my question is, do I have a genuine bad knock sensor problem? Or more directly, do these symptoms sound like what would happen with a bad sensor? I have no other codes or symptoms. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Hi wenjen4. I'm having the same symptoms as you are with my 03.
The CE light is on constantly and I'm having similar performance & mileage issues. Here's what I've done to troubleshoot it. I took off the electrical connection, cleaned and lubricated it with CRC qd electrical cleaner/lube then reconnect it. My CE light went off after about 1 mile and all performance issues went away! It stayed off for about 8-10 miles then came back on. So I crawled back under and pulled it off and put it back on again....and the CE light went back off again after a mile or so and the performance issues go away.
Here's my question. If the sensor is bad then taking the wire on & off should do nothing. No change. But it's not. The sensor seems to function temporarily after I monkey with the wire. This is what a lot of other owners are saying; they replace the sensor, the CE light goes out then after a few miles comes back on.
I'm thinking it's something with the wire. How would the computer or the sensor itself know I took that wire off when the car was off? It should make no change. I think I will try disconnecting the battery then take the wire on and off just in case the computer stays on all the time and knows I'm disconnecting that wire. I'll post any updates.

Thanks
 

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Hello All,
In the past week, I bought an 04 Honda Element with 135k miles. The previous owner had it smogged and passed on the day I purchased the car. The very next day after driving it ~30 miles the CEL light came with a PO325 error. In the year prior, the car sat in storage a lot, with a max of 4 months no driving, or so the previous owner says.

The light comes on intermittently, and I do notice a decline in performance when it does come on. The light seems to kick on when I am giving it extra gas going up a hill and then becomes sluggish. After reading through this thread, I wanted to try the easiest things first so I put a tank of Premium gas in it but the light continues to go on and off. I purchased a new knock sensor for $60 at my local parts store and will likely replace it to see if it helps, after checking the wire harness. I will keep you posted on the results, but I wanted to share in case anything has experienced something similar? Especially symptoms of a car that has been in storage.

Thanks all!
 

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Just thought I'd add to the conversation here:

I have an '06 Element with about 170k. Check engine light light with PO325 code the other day. Threw in half a tank of premium and the light went back off. Hoping it stays that way, but will update if it doesn't do the trick.
 

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I just want to throw some information into this thread since there isnt too much definitive information to go with these symptoms scenarios...

Facts about Knock error codes:

* a P code for a knock sensor is not an indication the engine is knocking, it is the indication that there is a problem with the knock sensor circuit

* knock sensors are generally pezioceramic discs and not accurately checked with impedance, yet there may be resistance in the 150-240kohm range

* Errors in a knock sensor circuit are largely wiring or computer related due to the extreme sensitivity of the sensor transmitting its data to the engine computer

* Intermittent knock errors may be caused by driving conditions where the engine computer isnt actually listening to the sensor, so no fault can be recorded.


I hope that helps clear some things up. Lets be honest, more times than none the sensor will fail and put the car into a "limp mode". Change the sensor and youre done. Sometimes you change the sensor, pull on the wire too much and cause another problem! Just remember this is a very sensitive listening devise and needs utmost care.
 

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Update:
I replaced the knock sensor and it did the trick. The fix was relatively simple, with help from Youtube videos. I ultimately removed and replaced the sensor by working up from the bottom of the car and I did not have to remove the manifold, as some people will say around the internet.
 

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Just thought I'd add to the conversation here:

I have an '06 Element with about 170k. Check engine light light with PO325 code the other day. Threw in half a tank of premium and the light went back off. Hoping it stays that way, but will update if it doesn't do the trick.
Following up on myself here.

Using a tank or two of premium gas was a foolish mistake and had no effect on the CEL. (The guy at the auto parts shop said the knock sensor was probably triggering from "just a tank of bad gas...throw some premium in there to clean it out!") It did however likely hasten the demise of my catalytic converter which clogged, resulting in the engine being unable to make any power! I have a new catalytic converter now. :|
 

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2004 E 235k miles. I had a local mechanic replace the knock sensor with an $11 one I got off eBay and my code came up again after about six months. I was able to remove it from underneath and it tested bad alongside the replacement. I tried every trick in this thread to install the new one from underneath but wound up pulling the manifold and going in from the top which was really pretty easy.

Now on to the front motor mount while I have the bottom pan removed...
 

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Hey everybody. Today I was driving in the morning though some heavy rain. About half an hour into the drive my CEL came on. First time ever since I bought it. No noticeable difference in driving or performance or anything. I finally make it to work, hook up my scan tool and get this same exact 'knock sensor' code. My question is... Can the octane of the fuel affect this? Perhaps some carbon buildup from poor fuel quality? Is this a potentially serious problem? What are my options? Forgive me if I sound dumb but this is my very first Honda and I'm really nervous/anxious to figure this out......
 

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has anyone tried replacing the wiring that connects the sensor to the computer? I tried looking it up but can't find the part anywhere.
 

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I bought one from eBay. I don't remember the stock number but I believe I just punched in knock sensor connector in the search bar.

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