[bridgetts]

Hi, It is on the back of the cylinder head on the passenger side. If you look down where the power steering hose bracket is mounted on the valve cover you will see the spool valve assembly with 2 connectors surrounded by a heat shield. It is attached to the head by 3 M6 bolts. I personaly would change the whole assembly which includes the valve,oil pressure switch,heat shield and gasket/screen. 1st honda Parts and Honda Parts Cheap charge $77 for the whole assembly and $40 for just the oil switch. I don't see any problem in changing this part......Just clean mounting area,place gasket/screen in place,make sure you don't cross thread the 3 bolts and torque to 7.2 lbf.ft

 

[Honda Box]

Broken vtec!

Well i have the p2646 code and my car won't rev past 3000rpm. I bought a new vtec oil pressure switch for $72 and it didn't fix the problem :-(

I'm assuming i should try cleaning out the screen that is before the switch but i'm not exactly sure how to get to the screen. Can someone point me in the right direction? Is it possible that the screen is blocked or would this be a waste of time?

I know this is a common problem and there are many threads about this but i rarely read about how the problem was ultimately corrected.


Thanks for any help
Steve

 

[Honda Box]

Just wanted to let anyone who reads this thread know how i fixed the problem.


I did an oil change.



I went to the Honda dealer on saturday morning and a tech said whenever they see this code, all they do is do an oil change. :roll: Sure enough, it fixed the problem.

 

[redhotdaddy]

entry to possibly the same problem

Hi was wondering what your results were with replacing the whole solenoid, as I seem to be coming down with a similar issue. Also could you tell me what the part number is for that solenoid?

 

[bougie311]

15810-raa-a03 "valve assy., spool"

I ordered 15810-RAA-A03 "VALVE ASSY., SPOOL" (#4 in this image below as I understand it.) My part is literally in the mail, when it arrives I'm hoping it includes #5-6, 12 &15). When ording online it was honestly hard to tell.

(everything pictured under 4: 5,6,12,15, which includes the VTEC Solenoid Valve)

To be clear, it does not include #7,8,10, or 11 which is the VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve or VTC Strainer. (Which would be a place to suspect for P0010, P0011, and P0341 according to my 2003 service manual.

When I looked at Service manual, any time it was oil pressure switch is taken apart to inspect or clean I needed the a new O-ring, regardless. So I have put off even that inspection yet.

#12 pictured,-The oil pressure switch being a common replacement, and the whole assembly a near last step. I'm <i>far</i> from a expert mechanic, but if I'm going to take the time to get it out, spending $74.12 to cover (3 potential problems) in one fell-swoop sounds good to me. (~and sounds reasonable after some extensive web research on this site amongst many others.)

Just checked the tracking on my part and looking like it should arrive tomorrow, so hopefully in a few days I'll have some more meaningful experiences to share on the subject.

With P2647, some people have just replaced the oil pressure switch and been fine; so you may consider that intermediate step also.

 

[bougie311]

Still waiting for parts

While I wait for my parts, came across this Service news bulletin from Honda that discusses the trouble codes (P2646, P2647) and repair strategy. Nothing too earth shattering, but interesting for basic documentations sake.

http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/A050300.PDF

Not sure why Honda felt the need to include this in a bulletin, as replacement of the VTEC oil pressure switch is in the standard troubleshooting (at least for P2647). Must be a higher failure rate item, or maybe they are trying to save techs and customer some time and money with a quicker service strategy.

 

[bougie311]

All working now

Just finished replacing the whole assembly. Was pretty strait forward, looks like I took care of my p2647 code and problems that came with it.

I found it was easy to unclip the wires standing on a small stool looking over the engine. Taking off the passenger side wheel gave good access to the solenoid assembly ~comes off with 3 accessible bolts.

The only mildly annoying thing was the extra cables in the area being zip-tied to the unit.

I noticed my solenoid assembly had a faint rattle inside (but the new parts did not), perhaps that was my problem. The oil screen looked Ok, I didn't bother checking out the old oil pressure switch, a new one came with the assembly.

 

[bougie311]

Part prices

15810-RAA-A03* (VALVE ASSY., SPOOL ) is $74.12 plus shipping from http://www.hondapartsnow.com Includes, filter, o-ring, oil pressure switch, vtec spool valve. Pretty much just un-bolt the old one, put the the new one.

I didn't opt for just the oil pressure switch 37250-PNE-G01*, it would have been $40.79. Seem to be mix results floating around the web for just replacing that with the p2647 code.

*(Part numbers are for my model/year, I'm not sure how much they vary between years.)

 

[hondamike12345]

the two things that i've seen cause this code are low oil level, and a bad vtec pressure switch. 9 times out of 10, it's a customer who's 2000 miles overdue for an oil change, and they're over a quart low.

i've also seen a few leaky vtec solenoid gaskets aka spool valve gasket. check that too.

 

[mainlymetal]

code 2646 me too

My question is what is code 0011-camshaft position actuator bank 1 timing?

here some of the story....
i have an 03 and let the oil run very low like at least 2-3 quarts low. i did not realize it was low until i noticed the engine malfunction lite on. so i brought it in for an oil change and they checked for the codes, which were code 2646 and code 0011. they changed the oil and cleared the codes.

the car ran fine before, except for a "clunk sound" one time about 3 weeks prior to oil change. it is driving fine and the engine light hasnot reappeared.

should i be concerned about code 0011 camshaft?

not sue if i am asking this question in the proper location.

thanks for all replies

 

[Elementery]

P2647

Experienced misfire and power loss this morning. Actually searched threads and got help from everyone. Took bougie311 advise and bought complete assemby at dealer and I was able to install the assembly in just over an
hour. My cel is still on and my ScanII still says code 2647!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Went on test drive and engine performs perfectly over repeat of route I took this morning when I had mis fires on several occasions. I have tried to "clear" code with the scanII but the light is still on. Is there some way to clear CEL that I am missing??? Thanks for all your help.:?

 

[Elementery]

Cel still on!!!!!

Bought "assembly" #15810-RAA-A03 and I installed it in just over an hour. Cel is still on and my SCANII still says P2647. Test drive over same route I was on this morning when I experienced misfires etc showed that engine is performing perfectly. I have tried to "clear codes" with ScanII to no avail.
Is there something I am missing?:? Thanks for your help.

 

[Elementery]

CEL cleared!!!!!!!!!!

Took my E out this morning and up the steepest/longest hill in Laguna Beach. CEL cleared by the time I got to the top. Engine runs as good as new.
My scangageII still says I have that code, so I will wait and see. Took just over 20 miles to get something happy after I installed new assembly.
I got something important from all the threads and you guys and gals. Many thanks$$$$$$$$$$

 

[asp]

VTEC Solenoid Valve inspection and filter replacement

After discovering a leak from the VTEC solenoid valve I ordered the OEM filter part number 15815-RAA-A02 shown below.

 

[asp]

Instructions

Due to chronic technical problems I cannot post the rest of my photos so here are text instructions for the filter replacement.

VTEC solenoid valve located on rear right of cylinder head next to exhaust manifold and above oil filter.

Disconnect VTEC solenoid valve and VTEC oil pressure switch connectors.

Remove the three 10 mm hex head bolts from above.

Remove the VTEC solenoid valve as a unit.

Measure the resistance between VTEC solenoid valve 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2.

If the the resistance is within specification (14 - 30 Ohm), replace the filter as required.

Remove the old filter.

Clean the seating/mating surfaces for the filter.

Install valve ensuring filter is seated correctly and loosely tighten bolts.

Torque bolts to 9.8 N.m.

Reconnect VTEC solenoid valve and oil pressure switch connectors.

 

[ramblerdan]

Replacing the VTEC oil pressure switch alone

To replace the VTEC oil pressure switch, the service manual says to

1) remove the solenoid assembly from the engine
2) remove a cover from the solenoid assembly
3) remove the switch

From the illustrations, it seems like the switch should be removable in situ. The solenoid assembly looks like a right PITA to get at, so I'd like to replace just the switch first, and the assembly only if necessary.

Could someone who has done this job shed some light?

Also, a general question I'm almost embarrassed to ask: Are bolts more likely to break loose in a hot engine than a cold one? (I don't mean applying heat to the bolt.)

 

[Honda Tech]

Could someone who has done this job shed some light?

Pretty easy to R&R switch. Use a deep 3/8 drive 6 point 22mm chrome socket(impact socket won't work, walls are too thick). Remove the bolt holding the P/S hose bracket from the cylinder head cover so you can deflect the P/S hose out of your way.

A new VTEC switch will NOT come with a new seal, which can (and should) be purchased separately.

Replacing the entire spool valve assembly isn't very hard either, just a little messy.

Seldom have issues with loosening the spool valve bolts. Less painful if the engine is cool. A good fitting socket and a quick snapping motion to break fasteners loose works better than applying force in a linear fashion.

 

[ramblerdan]

Thanks, HT. I ordered the whole solenoid assembly and plan to take the switch off that, so don't have to worry about the O ring. Good to know, though. If I end up needing to replace the assembly, I can use my 3/8" pneumatic ratchet—which I wouldn't have thought of, if not for your advice to apply a "quick snapping motion."

 

[LMntGuy1982]

Before you go spending any money on parts and or labor, I fixed mine by taking the solenoid assembly off (3 x 10mm bolts) and cleaning the screen. It was gunked up. The light didn't go off right away so I headed on to the Honda Dealer to get a new switch. Ironically enough the light turned off after I pulled out of the lot (without having the switch installed) and it hasn't been on since. It's a free fix and if it works, great! If not, well you're not out any money.

 

[dom08]

for code p2646.. rocker arm actuator system performance or stuck off blank 1..... this is for the VTEC Oil pressure switch(on the header)... not the oil pressure switch (on the block)

my dealer quotes me.....

oil pressure switch (located on block)
$33.95

vtec oil pressure switch (located on head)
$100.42