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HVAC Lights Replaced

Many thanks Ramblerdan. I changed my HVAC lights in my 2006 LX this weekend in less than 20 minutes after watching [ajchien's] video. It ended up being one of the easiest repairs I ever made. Had some trouble twisting the new bulbs into place but a little pressure from a small thin straight edge screwdriver to the back of the bulb did the trick. Got the replacement bulbs at the local Honda dealer for $4.59 each. Thanks again. No more beating on the dash!
 
you guys are lucky for getting the 5mm light(8640) from dealer for $5
my dealer wanted to charge me $12-13 for the lg hvac light

my question is after reading all the posts for lights here is: i see that the 8640 bulb is a 14v bulb. i thought i read in a post that you need a 12v bulb like the small 3mm light i got from radio shack. or is it suppose to be 14v for the 8640 bulb?

just want to make sure i get the right bulb voltage
 
Intermittant dash and hvac light

I have a 2005 Element DX 4wd. I have had my dash light go out at night along with the HVAC light. My belief is that there is a design problem. I live in CO and have to use the heat a lot during the wintertime. I feel that area behind the dash overheats from the heat that is generated. I can smell a burning smell if any snow is stuck on the windshield below the wipers.

When my dash went out, I was told it was a $700 to replace the dash. I ended up finding a mechanic who resoldered the wires going to the dash. I have had no problems since the mechanic did that. My HVAC light goes out at times and I think it has the same issue. You can hit the control and at times the light comes back on or find a mechanic to resolder the connection.
 
fantastic Mod.
I installed my 'bright white' bulbs this evening.

Overall it went very smooth. I found it very difficult to remove the old bulbs from the bulb fixture. I recommend only using your hands to remove the bulbs - which is not easy. Using plyers & a jar opener sticky pad I ended up breaking a bulb. I was Very lucky that I was able to pull the remaining broken portion out with plyers using the remaining filiment to grab hold.

Keep in mind that the bulbs are polarity sensitive and only work when installed a certain direction. If you find they are not working, flip the entire bulb housing 180' in the back of the speedometer assembly.
I was a bit scared as after my original install only 1 of the 7 bulbs was operational - after flipping them 7 of 7 work great.

Thanks for the write up.
 
fantastic Mod.
I installed my 'bright white' bulbs this evening.

Overall it went very smooth. I found it very difficult to remove the old bulbs from the bulb fixture. I recommend only using your hands to remove the bulbs - which is not easy. Using plyers & a jar opener sticky pad I ended up breaking a bulb. I was Very lucky that I was able to pull the remaining broken portion out with plyers using the remaining filiment to grab hold.

Keep in mind that the bulbs are polarity sensitive and only work when installed a certain direction. If you find they are not working, flip the entire bulb housing 180' in the back of the speedometer assembly.
I was a bit scared as after my original install only 1 of the 7 bulbs was operational - after flipping them 7 of 7 work great.

Thanks for the write up.
Yah they are difficult to remove the actual bulb from the "cup" or "housing." I ended up using a clean plastic tube made for flushing out your brake lines. I just happened to have a new one lying around. By placing it over the bulb it gave me the traction I needed to pull it out without breaking it or having to use pliers.

PICS! :)
 
fantastic Mod.

Thanks for the write up.
Not really sure who that was directed to, but if it was towards me, I thank you. :) << If you were talking to me, I didn't want you to think I was rude. :)

Yah they are difficult to remove the actual bulb from the "cup" or "housing." I ended up using a clean plastic tube made for flushing out your brake lines. I just happened to have a new one lying around. By placing it over the bulb it gave me the traction I needed to pull it out without breaking it or having to use pliers.

PICS! :)
I removed mine by placing small pieces of electrical tape on the tips of a small pair of needle nose pliers, which gave the pliers just enough grip to remove the bulbs from their sockets/holders. Worked great.
 
Hey guys, first time poster here. I did this mod. Very easy to get to everything. I got my LEDs from the guy the original poster recommended (guy off eBay). Put all the LEDs in, and only about 5 of them worked. I took the ones that didn't work and flipped them. Still didn't work. I put in an old standard bulb and it worked fine. Then, I took a "non working" LED from the 5 that didn't work, put it in a different base and it worked? I'm just not getting consistent results? Any help?
 
Then, I took a "non working" LED from the 5 that didn't work, put it in a different base and it worked? I'm just not getting consistent results? Any help?
Sounds like the inner metal terminals of your bases/bulb holders are not quite tight enough to make a good solid connection with the contacts on the l.e.d. bulbs. This may have been caused while removing the factory incandescent bulbs. I would suggest using a pick to remove the inner metal terminals (they actually can be pulled out with minimal effort) and use a small pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze them slightly closer, then slide them back into the base/bulb holder. If you don't have a pick, you might be able to slide a small flat head/regular screwdriver down on the sides of the metal inner terminals and push it over just enough to get it to make enough contact.

i'm pretty new to electrical stuff... don't know much. how would I go about testing those with a 12v source? thanks
There's many ways to go about doing this, but probably the easiest is by using your vehicles battery. Although you did say that they do actually work when swapped over to other sockets, there doesn't really seem to be a need to bother testing them. :?
 
Eww-an-e, looks like i got it to work. I just squeezed the top of the terminals in a little with pliers.. then flipped them.. I got all of them to work now. Thanks! It looks great...

Now I just need to do the hvac panel.... :)
 
I want to express my thanks for all the discussion about bulbs and dissasembly of AT cover. After viewing this post the last few days I have learned that first there is a light that is suppose to be on when the lights are on. And secondly can order the parts and DIY and save a lot of money. Just bought the E at the end of February and suspected that it might be nice if the PRND21 would light up at night. The EOC is so amazing a resource of help and great information. I can now order my bulbs and misc missing items and get my E like tip top shape. Thank you all who post and read. My sincere appreciation. John (Popenator). :)
 
HVAC Control Knob Light Bulbs?

Part Number is:
79629-S3V-A01

What is the bulb in this neo-wedge housing?

#9 in here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...ry3=5DR EX (2WD SD AIR BAG)&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=HEATER CONTROL&vinsrch=null

Other than online honda part stores like majestic and such where the shipping is insane for small parts like this, where else could I get this bulb?
Is there an aftermarket one? maybe in superlumination, etc?
I think $8 is absolutely outrageous for shipping, so any local places would be nice.
 
Threads merged. Search term "HVAC" returns this thread.

From post #7 above:
Reportedly, 79629-SCV-A01 interchanges with a standard 7219 bulb (Radio Shack 272-1092) and 79629-S3V-A01 with an 8640 bulb. Illustrated list of all Element bulbs here.
 
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