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P2646 error code again

Once again I have P2646 HONDA Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch Circuit error code again and engine completely stalls on once heated up at freeway speeds (around 65MPH) around 3000RPM. This has been going on for 2 months. I replaced the oil pressure switch 4 times which fixes it for 1-3 days. 10 days ago I had the entire Honda Part No.: 15840-RAA-A00
Strainer Assy., VTC and NEW 15810-RAA-A03 Fit Honda CRV Accord CR-V Element Vtec Solenoid Spool Valve. This of course has brand new screens. The error code happened within 10 if installation. I don't know what else there is to check or repair. Any ideas? I also had new oil and filter installed after these parts were replaced 10 days ago. The mechanic insisted on using 5w-30 weight oil but I am getting the same error code and symptoms when I was running 5w-20 oil. Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The one key symptom is it appears to happen on freeway speeds after heating up. I can run above 3000RPMs around town usually with no problems. Occasionally it will stutter but not completely lose power like on the freeway.

Thanks,
David
510-552-0529
 
I don't know what's causing the problem, but your mechanic is a not an engineer.

Honda doesn't put the oil grade on the filler cap for no good reason. The engine's designed for 5w-20. VTEC is going to respond differently at running temperature to a more viscous oil.
 
I don't know what's causing the problem, but your mechanic is a not an engineer.

Honda doesn't put the oil grade on the filler cap for no good reason. The engine's designed for 5w-20. VTEC is going to respond differently at running temperature to a more viscous oil.
Actually, the vtec responds better to higher oil pressure, which 5w-30 will give at operating temp. However, it sounds like oil is not the problem in this case.
 
Thank you for replying.

Yes, both codes were stored. And the car has had electrical demons in the past.

What would a troubleshooting checklist look like, if I were trying to investigate electrical causes for the problem?

Also, what are the odds that using heavier weight oil (10w-30) would fix this problem? I'm aware of risks associated with heavier oil, but am generally OK given the cars current state and outlook.

Lastly, the problem did go away for a 6-month period at one point, after changing the entire switch assembly.

Thanks again!
Update to this issue? I am having very same problems.
 
P2646 Error and resolution

I, too, had issues with my oil solenoid/ oil pressure switch. Actually replaced it twice. Error recurred shortly thereafter in each case. I discovered that the 2 wired connectors that are attached to the solenoid are NOT waterproof. On a hunch, I pulled the 2 connectors which I quickly discovered had moisture inside. Solution was to take some cotton swabs and clean the contacts on all 4 surfaces, take a hair dryer and dry them out as thoroughly as possible, then apply a liberal amount of dielectric grease around the base of the wired connectors, being careful not to apply any to the metal contacts themselves.
Putting the connectors back in place will force the grease to both the outside and inside surfaces sufficient to keep out any moisture. Since we had MAJOR rain here in SoCal last week, driving in this horrible rainstorm was a true test of my remedy. No more issues or codes for this solenoid. Hope this helps!!!

BobM
 
Rocker Arm actuator

Had the 'bucking & surging' on my 03 Element with 103,000 miles.
Replaced Rocker Arm Actuator, $142.00 from dealer. reset, 'check engine light off. Drove about 23 miles, all good and then it started its 'bucking & surging' upon acceleration. Where do I go from here? Could the plug be bad? Should I change oil & filter? Not sure what's going on.
I appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks
 
When I had this code, the first thing I did was flush the oil. I bought some motor flush, put in new oil and filter, Ranett for a few miles, put in another quart of motor flush and drained oil, then a new filter and new oil. After that my code went away.

If you put in the part before changing your oil you may have just plugged up the screen again!

Ymmv but that is what works for me. I have the new part in my vehicle but I didn't end up having to install it .

Good luck
 
P2647 solutions

So I bought my 2003 Element around thanksgiving last year. When test driving it the check engine light came on and it was either P2646 or P2647(i dont remember). Regardless, they fixed the solenoid, screens, and changed the oil before I bought it and everything was fine until I went and got the oil changed. Now it lurches when I hit 3000 rpms. I took it to my buddies shop and the reader came up P2647. We had ordered a new solenoid and installed it tonight. Nothing has changed, it still lurches at 3000 rpms. Any idea whats going on with it and how to fix it? Thanks.
 
Element Haunted by Old Civic. P2646

I Sold my old Civic after hassles with intermittent cut out at odd times. Thru many hundreds of dollars at it and came down to can of contact cleaner and some die electric fixed it right up.
Element cut out on me on the way to work this morning. I was on the freeway, cruise set at 70 mph. A little less than 3k. Coming up on traffic I punched it to get into the fast lane and the damn thing just shut off and the check engine light came on. Right at the same time I was passing an exit so I jumped off the freeway. At first it seemed like I had no throttle. As I came to the stop the engine was running. Decided to limp it back home. It would run but if it hit 3k seems like the engine or transmission was trying to come out. Pulling off from stop seems like it was lacking power. Hooked up scanner when I got home. Code was P2646. Complete new valve assembly going in this week end.
Ya gotta love Honda's.
I've only had this thing not quite 2 Months. I saw 2 other codes. Both rear wheel speed sensor. I understand the sensor reads the code on the inner/out side bearing race and the gap between is critical. Isn't this system hooked up to the ABS and if so why wouldn't I have a ABS light indicator ?
 
Threads merged. A thread-title search for keyword "2646" returns this thread.

> if it hit 3k seems like the engine or transmission was trying to come
> out.
Normal "limp mode" behavior.

> Complete new valve assembly going in this week end.
That's an extreme solution to what is probably just a VTEC problem.
 
I have a general question for the VTEC wizzards out there. Can someone outline what the command/response sequence is when the engine RPM hits 3000? I have full wiring diagrams and the ETM for my E which has no problems/codes but I would appreciate any help on what the order is on solenoid closure/ pressure switch closure/ actuator on etc. Another way of putting this would be how does the ECU interact with the VTEC solenoids and switches. Thanks for any help getting my brain around this.
 
Guess I should have said Spool Valve Assembly. ( 15810-RAA-A03 )
Comes complete with new switch. It was reasonably Cheap from the Honda parts site here in the forum. $102.00 plus shipping. The local Honda dealer wants $179.00
Maybe an extreme approach by some but reasonable to me. Heard to many stories of people just cleaning the screens and putting in a new switch just to have to deal with it again a few months later. Planning to many remote, off the beaten path trips so I want this thing 100%
I knew I would have to replace some things going into it. It's pretty cool and to be honest I am looking forward to some garage time with my new toy.
 
HondaPartsNow.com 1-888-984-2011
Not sure which post I was reading but found it here on the Forum.
Have you seen the You Tube video? I wouldn't have thought to clean the screen behind the Serpentine belt tension-er
Just took mine semi off road last Saturday and it ran great. Just muddy logging road stuff. The mud puddles made it fun. Till I had to clean it. :|
Really happy it didn't mess up there. Would have been a very stressful ride home.
 
I just got done replacing the Vtec Spool valve. Which included cleaning out the lower pain in the ass screen. As I've only had my Element for a couple of months I am guessing the Spool Valve has been on the edge of going out all along.
It accelerates harder and I don't feel the annoying hesitations or slight miss / skip at 60- 80.
Starting to like this rig more and more.
 
I, too, had issues with my oil solenoid/ oil pressure switch. Actually replaced it twice. Error recurred shortly thereafter in each case. I discovered that the 2 wired connectors that are attached to the solenoid are NOT waterproof. On a hunch, I pulled the 2 connectors which I quickly discovered had moisture inside. Solution was to take some cotton swabs and clean the contacts on all 4 surfaces, take a hair dryer and dry them out as thoroughly as possible, then apply a liberal amount of dielectric grease around the base of the wired connectors, being careful not to apply any to the metal contacts themselves.
Putting the connectors back in place will force the grease to both the outside and inside surfaces sufficient to keep out any moisture. Since we had MAJOR rain here in SoCal last week, driving in this horrible rainstorm was a true test of my remedy. No more issues or codes for this solenoid. Hope this helps!!!

BobM
Can you give us an update Bob? I'm running on the same problem. Do you have to do this regularly?
 
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