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first ever post. the forum has been helpful so maybe I can return the favor.
I had issues with the vtech solenoid. oil leaks and codes popping up. I had it replaced 4 times. each time it lasted about 3 months and then the last time it failed it left me in limp mode with a 200 mile return home drive. it frustrated my mechanic. then I developed a problem with the alternator. so he replaced the alternator, tensioner and belt I think. I had over 280k on the car so this was overdue. since then, over a year now, I have had no issues with the solenoid. I'm no mechanic, but possibly someone can see the connection between the two. good luck.
We replaced the alternator as well, and it worked for about a year. Light came on again the other day...
 
I agree, battery/system voltage can affect system faults- I had a Chevy HHR that started throwing an ABS light- I noticed, if I just turned the key on and waited for all the dash lights to clear and then started the engine, I didn't have any ABS fault pop up. I purchased a LCD DC volt readout that lugs into the 12v dash jack- the numbers quickly told me that my battery was not holding a full charge overnight- maybe 12.2-12.4 volts. A new battery fixed the ABS dash light-
Being an electrician, I should have figured this out a lot sooner! Having a 50% charged battery plus old plug-in connections to the VTEC solenoid and pressure transducers might give a faulty reading to the engine computer--
one of these is about $12-14 on Amazon- and you still keep your phone charging jacks.
202868
 
The indicator should show 12.6 volts for a fully charged battery after sitting overnight, 12.5 is 75% 12.4 is 50%, 12.2 is 25% and 12 volts means you are already in trouble this winter. Winter temps could cause a lower reading, that's what happens in low temps-- Be sure the battery post connections are clean, too. Good luck on chasing the VTEC gremlins.
 
Did you use a genuine Honda VVT solenoid or aftermarket? (From what I've learned on this site, most times it's hard to tell them apart!) Most everyone here says that the aftermarket ones are pure junk. But the genuine Honda's don't exactly have a clean record either! : - (

I'm asking because I have had intermittent P2646 codes (twice actually), but for the last 2 1/2 months it has been fine. I never changed anything and it seems to have gone away! (I can only hope!) But also, I have done very little highway driving in that time, so............. My worst fear is that it will decide to go off while I'm driving halfway uphill on the Skyway Bridge!!!!!!!!!!

I'm thinking that I may have partially clogged screens making it intermittent. Since my next oil change will be due soon, my next plan is to put about 5 ounces of Sea Foam treatment (as directed on the can) into my oil, run it for the next 500 miles or so, remove and check the VVT solenoid gasket and screen to see whats going on in there, change the oil & filter (5W20 Valvoline synthetic blend & Fram filter) and then see what happens!

One thing for sure: This P2646 code sure can be elusive to find out exactly what is wrong! : - (
Increase oil weight... seriously. 5W20 is your issue I'm pretty sure. What's your E's mileage at?
 
Increase oil weight... seriously. 5W20 is your issue I'm pretty sure. What's your E's mileage at?
I bought my one owner 2005 Element last year with 234K miles- the owner said he had never had any VTEC codes and never replaced any VTEC parts. He was using 5W30 weight oil and that is what I used in my first oil change.
He was a heavy highway mileage user- 30K miles some years, he said,
I looked it up, heavier 10W30 is approved for this engine.
There is a minimum oil pressure the VTEC system computer looks for on engine start up or a code is set- so 10W30 oil might be the fix for that issue. Its a complicated hydraulic system
I still suspect, an increase of the the computer's engine idle speed setting , maybe by a 100 rpm, could cure a lot of these codes, by boosting the oil pressure a little bit at idle speeds.
 
V-tec control switch - acceleration problems

I had my Element in the dealership twice in early December to have the V-tec control switch replaced and then the next piece up the food chain as well. Well, today the same problem happened - at 60 mph on the freeway, accelerated and lost power. This is the third time in < 2 months, anyone else having similar problems? My E is around 70k miles. Regular maintenance, oil changes, etc, so I'm trying to figure out if it's a bigger issue (i.e. lemon) than just dirt causing the clogged screens (at least that's how they explained the cause to me last time).
  1. My 2004 Element was leaking oil profusely from the VTEC . I purchased a replacement from Advanced Auto Parts. I have no oil leak but the same problem your having. At about 3000 rpms I lose power. I am going to the Honda dealer to purchase a new VTEC. Will let you know.
 
Hey everyone! New to the forum and have been combing through tons of threads trying to pinpoint if anyone has had the same issue as me, but not seeing any similarities. So heres what's up. I have a 2004 AT and have never had an issue with it. I'm the 2nd owner. Bought it with 128k miles and have since put on another 40k. A few weeks ago, had that fantastic P2646 pop up with all the bucking and everything. Grabbed a $60 amazon VTEC solenoid, swapped it out, cleaned the vtc screen and went ahead and did spark plugs as well. Everything was great for a week or so until... I step on the gas from a dead stop to merge into traffic and have HORRIBLE acceleration. Engine revs up, high RPMs before shifting (smoothly) and its taking forever to get up to speed. Complete loss of pick up. Pull over, turn the car off and on, start driving around town like a grandma and everything feels perfect. I go to test some hard acceleration and again same thing. Once finally babying it to highway speeds on the way to work I can get it up to 65ish but if I go to push it any further, high RPM and I'm not going any faster. Now I'm in panic mode. Stopped at a honda dealer and bought OEM VTEC put that on and drained and filled transmission. Cross my fingers and take it for a ride and still the same thing ?Still driving back and forth to work and noticing that im also getting terrible gas mileage 14mpg. Maybe from the higher rpms. I have no idea where to go from here...

Hoping someone has an idea what this could be and what a remedy might be. Without codes popping up I dont know where to look. Some thoughts from a few threads are VTC solenoid/actuator (side of the engine), trans solenoid, valve adjustment, kitchen sick. I don't want just throw parts at this issue, or want it to turn into a money pit. I love this car and I know it has a ton of life left. Any recommendations and ideas?
 
Bought my 03 EX AWD AT a few weeks ago and I've been in heaven. Has 157k miles on it and I've put 750 since taking ownership. Previous owner bought certified preowned in 2006 with 30k miles on it and has had it since.

Well I got the dreaded P2646 code on my way home from work the other day. Driving just before rush hour traffic in San Diego...was cruising at a nice 70-75mph....then BOOM loss of power and CEL/DTC/MIL on. Make it to the shoulder. Don't see anything awry/suspicious/out of place/smell anything. Turn car on and seems fine but will NOT let me go over 3k rpm. I limp home in the slow lane going a max 55-60 (thank goodness it was now traffic and the flow was in the 30s-40s anyways). Pull the code and its this.

I've just finished reading all 21 pages of this thread.

I've been doing a 'peace of mind' tune up on it since the previous owner had sporadic records.
Oddly enough was going to do an Oil change to Mobil1 Synthetic this weekend since he typically took it to jiffylube like places every 3k.

I checked the Solenoid visually...and considering this is a 17 year old car I was expecting the heat shield on it to be rusty...but it is fairly newish looking. Anyway to check if it is Honda OEM vs non-Honda? The heat shield says 'Keinin' on it...(will add pic later).


I removed the connections and they look clean/non-corroded (car has been in SoCal its whole life). Reseated them, need to find my dielectric grease though.

Plan to replace the screen in the VTEC solenoid with a Honda screen (dealer has in stock for $6). Change oil to Mobil1 5w-20 synthetic and K&N pro oil filter. And see what happens. Is it change oil THEN clean screen? or Clean screen THEN change oil?

Havent been driving it since the code showed up since my commute is 26 miles one way.

If that doesn't clear it, I'll do the front screen behind the tensioner pulley (also replace the serpentine belt at that point) and possibly replace the Solenoid assembly with a Honda one. Did I see that the front screen is mainly for P2647?
 
Hey everyone! New to the forum and have been combing through tons of threads trying to pinpoint if anyone has had the same issue as me, but not seeing any similarities. So heres what's up. I have a 2004 AT and have never had an issue with it. I'm the 2nd owner. Bought it with 128k miles and have since put on another 40k. A few weeks ago, had that fantastic P2646 pop up with all the bucking and everything. Grabbed a $60 amazon VTEC solenoid, swapped it out, cleaned the vtc screen and went ahead and did spark plugs as well. Everything was great for a week or so until... I step on the gas from a dead stop to merge into traffic and have HORRIBLE acceleration. Engine revs up, high RPMs before shifting (smoothly) and its taking forever to get up to speed. Complete loss of pick up. Pull over, turn the car off and on, start driving around town like a grandma and everything feels perfect. I go to test some hard acceleration and again same thing. Once finally babying it to highway speeds on the way to work I can get it up to 65ish but if I go to push it any further, high RPM and I'm not going any faster. Now I'm in panic mode. Stopped at a honda dealer and bought OEM VTEC put that on and drained and filled transmission. Cross my fingers and take it for a ride and still the same thing ?Still driving back and forth to work and noticing that im also getting terrible gas mileage 14mpg. Maybe from the higher rpms. I have no idea where to go from here...

Hoping someone has an idea what this could be and what a remedy might be. Without codes popping up I dont know where to look. Some thoughts from a few threads are VTC solenoid/actuator (side of the engine), trans solenoid, valve adjustment, kitchen sick. I don't want just throw parts at this issue, or want it to turn into a money pit. I love this car and I know it has a ton of life left. Any recommendations and ideas?
UPDATE: My catalytic converter was clogged. She couldn't breathe! Took it to a local exhaust place they said that the one currently in there was not original and had been previously replaced. Well $350 later and she's driving better than ever! Fingers crossed that I don't need to throw any more money into my element.
 
UPDATE: My catalytic converter was clogged. She couldn't breathe! Took it to a local exhaust place they said that the one currently in there was not original and had been previously replaced. Well $350 later and she's driving better than ever! Fingers crossed that I don't need to throw any more money into my element.
Hmmm, I would think that a different code would pop up since there is 2 oxygen sensors on cat, to monitor input and out of emissions.
 
Well did an oil change with mobil1 5w20 synthetic for high mileage cars, replaced the screen in the VTEC Spool, K&N oil filter and cleared code. Have put 100ish miles (just have anxiety that it'll pop up again). So far so good knock on wood.

I think the Spool I have currently is OEM, and it says Keihin (not Keinin) which I also saw elsewhere in the vehicle.
 
Hey Jeffro, I've taken my Wife's 2003 to a Honda dealership 2 times within the last month to deal with this limp mode issue. I've dumped $1500 into this 215k mileage car and after seeing your quote above I am wondering if I need to just call it a day and scrap her out.

Before I discovered limp mode via google I let the dealer have a look and they've replaced the coil and computer. It basically went back into limp mode on the way home from the dealer. I took the car back and told them I was not impressed and was given a loaner for 3 weeks while they did god knows what. They said some pins had come loose from the cpu and replaced the oil pressure switch and put over 100 miles on it without issue. They have identified oil pressure issues but want me to bring it back if it does it again so they can plug it back into their computer. Drove to work this morning and when it heated up limp mode reengaged.

I had a discussion with the service manager about "limp mode" and he nor his technician had any idea what I was talking about. I'll be taking it back Tuesday afternoon and I am tempted to just tell them what to do. Change Oil, change solenoid assy, change solenoid gasket and call this my last ditch effort? Anything else I should throw in for good measure?

Sort of stuck here as someone that doesn't have time to sink into actually working on it myself. Wondering if it is truly time to say goodbye to the old Element for good.

Any advice is truly appreciated.

-Ryan
Was this problem ever fixed
 
P2646 Code, should this be a lawsuit?

Since there seems to be no specific fix for this. Can this be applied to a Lemon Law? If you had it fixed for good, let us know 1) what was all the steps and 2) cost to finally fix if it did fix or did you pass it on to a new owner, which eventually show up again.

Thanks,

06 Element owner
Were you able to fix the problem
 
Hi, I've gained so much information from this thread. I just wanted to add my experience with this problem in case it helps anyone. Sorry, it's a long one!
I have a 2008 EX AWD Automatic Transmission with about 145k, 80% oil life since last changing. Returning home from Flagstaff to Phoenix AZ last week, just after filling up the gas tank, I got the Check Engine Light (CEL). I pulled over, checked the manual and decided to check the gas cap. Wasn't loose. The light stayed on but I decided to continue on since the car was driving ok, and the manual suggested that it might be an emissions problem that I did not necessarily need to immediately deal with. But when I got back on the road and accelerated, the car VSA light and the exclamation point triangle came on accompanied with the shuddering and 3000 rpm limiting experience described by many others in this thread. I pulled over, shut off the car and took a look around the car to see if there was anything obviously wrong. FYI, I had just replaced the radiator with a new OEM one and when I did that, I also drained and refilled the transmission fluid. That was just prior to this trip so I assumed it had something to do with that. But the temp gauge was always below halfway and there were no leaks anywhere. Plus it made the 150 mile drive up to Flagstaff two days earlier, no problem. After looking around and not seeing anything obviously wrong, I started the car back up. Only the CEL light was still on and the car drove fine though all the gears. So I decided to risk the 2.5 hour drive to Phoenix. About 20 minutes in, the other two lights came back on, and the car shuddered, etc. Luckily, I had a friend who lives near that exit, so I took the car there and hitched a ride home with the in laws. Over the last week while the car sat at my friend's house, I researched the issue by reading every page of this thread and watching several videos on this Honda VTEC issue, some linked in this thread, some not. I ultimately decided the best thing to do was to replace the entire spool valve assembly with the Honda OEM 15810-RAA-A03 plus a few other things. The genuine Honda spool valve assembly cost me about $180 from my local dealer. I also decided to change my oil with Honda 5W-20 and Genuine Honda oil filter. Here's what I did:
With the front of the car on jackstands about one foot up, I removed the negative battery terminal. Then I loosened the 10mm bolt that holds the power steering hose bracket in place and used a bungee chord to hold it out of the way. I then removed the spool valve by first unclipping the plugs and used needle nose pliers and a flat screwdriver the remove the wires that are attached to the unit. Then I removed the three equal length 10 mm bolts with a socket and short extension. The screen on the spool valve looked pretty clean, no chunky debris like some others had. One of the videos I watched suggested to crank the engine over for a couple of seconds with the spool valve removed to purge any oil that was in the small tube leading to the screen in case there was debris there. This might have helped, but if you do this, be prepared for an oily mess. Even though I was holding a rag there, I spend hours with rags and simple green cleaning up the oil that surged past the rag all over the engine compartment and ground. Some oil got on the plugs for the spool valve assembly too, which I had to clean. I'm not sure I suggest doing that part, but like I said, it might have helped. After the mess was clean (and the engine compartment cleaner that it was before), I installed the new spool assembly. Then I drained the engine oil and removed the old oil filter. Then I filled it with about 4.5 qts of oil and put on the new oil filter. The engine started up, no lights came on, and after a few cautious miles driving around the area, I drove it back to Phoenix with no issues. I'll be sure to follow up if this fix doesn't hold up but, it's gone about 200 miles so far, finger crossed it goes another 140k miles like this!
 
Hi, I've gained so much information from this thread. I just wanted to add my experience with this problem in case it helps anyone. Sorry, it's a long one!
I have a 2008 EX AWD Automatic Transmission with about 145k, 80% oil life since last changing. Returning home from Flagstaff to Phoenix AZ last week, just after filling up the gas tank, I got the Check Engine Light (CEL). I pulled over, checked the manual and decided to check the gas cap. Wasn't loose. The light stayed on but I decided to continue on since the car was driving ok, and the manual suggested that it might be an emissions problem that I did not necessarily need to immediately deal with. But when I got back on the road and accelerated, the car VSA light and the exclamation point triangle came on accompanied with the shuddering and 3000 rpm limiting experience described by many others in this thread. I pulled over, shut off the car and took a look around the car to see if there was anything obviously wrong. FYI, I had just replaced the radiator with a new OEM one and when I did that, I also drained and refilled the transmission fluid. That was just prior to this trip so I assumed it had something to do with that. But the temp gauge was always below halfway and there were no leaks anywhere. Plus it made the 150 mile drive up to Flagstaff two days earlier, no problem. After looking around and not seeing anything obviously wrong, I started the car back up. Only the CEL light was still on and the car drove fine though all the gears. So I decided to risk the 2.5 hour drive to Phoenix. About 20 minutes in, the other two lights came back on, and the car shuddered, etc. Luckily, I had a friend who lives near that exit, so I took the car there and hitched a ride home with the in laws. Over the last week while the car sat at my friend's house, I researched the issue by reading every page of this thread and watching several videos on this Honda VTEC issue, some linked in this thread, some not. I ultimately decided the best thing to do was to replace the entire spool valve assembly with the Honda OEM 15810-RAA-A03 plus a few other things. The genuine Honda spool valve assembly cost me about $180 from my local dealer. I also decided to change my oil with Honda 5W-20 and Genuine Honda oil filter. Here's what I did:
With the front of the car on jackstands about one foot up, I removed the negative battery terminal. Then I loosened the 10mm bolt that holds the power steering hose bracket in place and used a bungee chord to hold it out of the way. I then removed the spool valve by first unclipping the plugs and used needle nose pliers and a flat screwdriver the remove the wires that are attached to the unit. Then I removed the three equal length 10 mm bolts with a socket and short extension. The screen on the spool valve looked pretty clean, no chunky debris like some others had. One of the videos I watched suggested to crank the engine over for a couple of seconds with the spool valve removed to purge any oil that was in the small tube leading to the screen in case there was debris there. This might have helped, but if you do this, be prepared for an oily mess. Even though I was holding a rag there, I spend hours with rags and simple green cleaning up the oil that surged past the rag all over the engine compartment and ground. Some oil got on the plugs for the spool valve assembly too, which I had to clean. I'm not sure I suggest doing that part, but like I said, it might have helped. After the mess was clean (and the engine compartment cleaner that it was before), I installed the new spool assembly. Then I drained the engine oil and removed the old oil filter. Then I filled it with about 4.5 qts of oil and put on the new oil filter. The engine started up, no lights came on, and after a few cautious miles driving around the area, I drove it back to Phoenix with no issues. I'll be sure to follow up if this fix doesn't hold up but, it's gone about 200 miles so far, finger crossed it goes another 140k miles like this!
Thanks for the detailed post. It's good that you seem to have found the problem on the first try. (Many others here are not so fortunate).

One thing for sure: This is not a problem where one can say "just do .............. and that will fix it". Multiple issues can and do bring on the same symptoms.

I guess I was one of the lucky ones; after 2 incidents where it went into limp mode but stopped after a couple days, it seems to have fixed itself! It's been gone for almost a year now. Other than oil and filter changes, I really didn't do anything to "fix" it. In a way that's good; but in another way that's bad, because I still can't identify what went wrong! And the concern remains that it may act up again!

This is by far the most frustrating of any typical problem with the Honda 2.4 VTEC engines.

Change your oil early and often! :)
 
I have had this code pop up from time to time over the 17 years I have owned my element. Normally an oil change would take care of the issue I was bad about getting it done as frequently as I needed to. However at 375,000 miles I couldn't get it to clear the code and it would keep coming back after oil changes within a few thousand miles. I was also getting occasional misfires on start up and loosing coolant from the radiator. I took it to the dealership and that was a waste of my time they just threw a new vetch solenoid on it and charged me 400$. Of course this did not solve the problem so I took it to a shop I have used over the years to do other work. They did a compression test and determined I was loosing compression on cylinder three. All this was leading to a bad head gasket and possible oil contamination which was likely why the code was being thrown. So I am replacing the engine currently as it wasn't much more than the head gasket replacement.
 
Was the issue ever resolved
Yes, however I'm not entirely sure how or why. After replugging things randomly and abusing dielectric grease, I haven't had the problem return since a few days after my last post. I still believe that my specific problem was due to a bad connection to the oil pressure switch due to corrosion, and if I have the problem again I plan on replacing the connector. That being said, it seems like there is unfortunately an entire continuum of causes for P2646.
 
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