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Welp, third time in 2 years... Replaced My VVT Solenoid.
Did you use a genuine Honda VVT solenoid or aftermarket? (From what I've learned on this site, most times it's hard to tell them apart!) Most everyone here says that the aftermarket ones are pure junk. But the genuine Honda's don't exactly have a clean record either! : - (

I'm asking because I have had intermittent P2646 codes (twice actually), but for the last 2 1/2 months it has been fine. I never changed anything and it seems to have gone away! (I can only hope!) But also, I have done very little highway driving in that time, so............. My worst fear is that it will decide to go off while I'm driving halfway uphill on the Skyway Bridge!!!!!!!!!!

I'm thinking that I may have partially clogged screens making it intermittent. Since my next oil change will be due soon, my next plan is to put about 5 ounces of Sea Foam treatment (as directed on the can) into my oil, run it for the next 500 miles or so, remove and check the VVT solenoid gasket and screen to see whats going on in there, change the oil & filter (5W20 Valvoline synthetic blend & Fram filter) and then see what happens!

One thing for sure: This P2646 code sure can be elusive to find out exactly what is wrong! : - (
 

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my 2646 has changed to a 2647. ordered a replacement connector, hoping this is the fix should come in a week or so. i have replaced the spool valve (twice) and also oil change. i wonder--the two pins that the connector slides onto--can they be jumped or grounded to fool the system somehow?
 

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Random question really quick, sorry to interrupt the thread. 2008 SC, Automatic with 74,000 miles. Got a wrench on the dash, and every time I start the car it says Service B12, -5548%. I thought this was the oil so I changed it, with Mobil 1 Ultimate Full Synthetic, with their best filter. Still showing it after a few months. Is it just the oil, and it has to be reset manually, or is this a drivetrain issue?
 

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Turn the key on. Use the knob on the instrument cluster to make the "B12 -5548" show. Hold the knob in for about half a minute or more until the numbers start flashing. Hold it another 5-10 seconds or so until the number goes back to 100%.
 

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Did you use a genuine Honda VVT solenoid or aftermarket? (From what I've learned on this site, most times it's hard to tell them apart!) Most everyone here says that the aftermarket ones are pure junk. But the genuine Honda's don't exactly have a clean record either! : - (

I'm asking because I have had intermittent P2646 codes (twice actually), but for the last 2 1/2 months it has been fine. I never changed anything and it seems to have gone away! (I can only hope!) But also, I have done very little highway driving in that time, so............. My worst fear is that it will decide to go off while I'm driving halfway uphill on the Skyway Bridge!!!!!!!!!!

I'm thinking that I may have partially clogged screens making it intermittent. Since my next oil change will be due soon, my next plan is to put about 5 ounces of Sea Foam treatment (as directed on the can) into my oil, run it for the next 500 miles or so, remove and check the VVT solenoid gasket and screen to see whats going on in there, change the oil & filter (5W20 Valvoline synthetic blend & Fram filter) and then see what happens!

One thing for sure: This P2646 code sure can be elusive to find out exactly what is wrong! : - (
Update: I have now driven 3 1/2 months and over 3000 miles without the P2646 code coming back. I changed the oil & filter over the weekend. I used Valvoline 5W20 Synthetic Blend and a Wix Oil filter. (This was the only thing that I changed since first getting the P2646 code & going into limp mode way back in June.)

Yesterday I drove it down the Interstate with the cruise control set at 75 MPH for 16 straight miles without any problem!

So, I guess it fixed itself! But, I'm still being cautious!
 

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Just wanted to throw in my experience with P2646; I had my Element enter limp mode a few months ago but after resetting the code I could not get it to come back. A few days ago it happened again, and it immediately entered limp mode after I cleared the code. With the help of an extremely drunk guy in the McDonald's parking lot at 1AM, I unplugged all the connectors around the spool valve assembly and noticed some corrosion on the connector to the oil pressure switch. The screen seemed to be clean. Not wanting the problem to happen again, I fired the parts cannon and ordered spool valve assembly (#15810-RAA-A03). When I reinstalled it, I filled each of the connectors with an unholy amount of dielectric grease. The problem seems to be solved.

It seems like there is nowhere for moisture to go once it enters the connector to the oil pressure switch, considering its orientation. Might be a good place to troubleshoot.
 

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Just wanted to throw in my experience with P2646; I had my Element enter limp mode a few months ago but after resetting the code I could not get it to come back. A few days ago it happened again, and it immediately entered limp mode after I cleared the code. With the help of an extremely drunk guy in the McDonald's parking lot at 1AM, I unplugged all the connectors around the spool valve assembly and noticed some corrosion on the connector to the oil pressure switch. The screen seemed to be clean. Not wanting the problem to happen again, I fired the parts cannon and ordered spool valve assembly (#15810-RAA-A03). When I reinstalled it, I filled each of the connectors with an unholy amount of dielectric grease. The problem seems to be solved.

It seems like there is nowhere for moisture to go once it enters the connector to the oil pressure switch, considering its orientation. Might be a good place to troubleshoot.
nevermind it's back

element confirmed haunted

I am going to cry
 

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Well, silicone grease is an insulator- if it has migrated down to the metal connector surfaces it could be causing trouble with the signal- remove the plug , clean and reinstall.
 

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I just searched for the same Code on my newly acquired 2005 Element. (Since I am a 30+ mechanic) I'll give you my opinion of what's wrong. After reading about 10 posts on the same problem, I'm going to say it's your it's the Valve Timing Solenoid (located on the passenger side above or oil filter enclosed in a L shaped heatshield thing with two electrical plugs on top). Clean the solenoid and filter, reset the CEL and try it again. Some people have replaced the Vtech Oil Pressure Switch and still had the Code but it went away after cleaning the filter/strainer. I'm going to change the oil and filter and clean the pressure switch filter. The part is the same on most all Vtech engines. One of the web Honda dealers sell the part for $41.00.
37250-PNE-G01 SWITCH ASSY., VALVE TIMING OILPRESSURE ( No Color) 55.17 41.38

I've also seen a Moderator that said if the Battery Voltage is low that it can throw some funny codes.

Capt. Mike
Is that one piece?? What is the 37250-PNE-G01. And is that the oil pressure switch itself??? Also is the switch the same as the solenoid??? I need help! The Honda place told me there’s the Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch And there’s the V-Tec Valve Assembly??? Does the valve assembly have the screen(s)???? Should I replace both pieces or just the pressure switch?????
 

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I get this code every time my oil is low or worn out. In both the ‘10 and the ‘03. Only once in one of them I ever even removed it and cleaned it. When I say it happens a lot, I mean every single time I change oil, I use 5w20 syn. I reset the service light, drive til it says 25% oil life and reset again. Every couple changes I don’t catch, I get the limp stutter at about 2K, change oil, reset MIL and back to green flag racing
 

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And I must insist... When working with Honda and VW ALWAYS use factory sensors. I’m not sure what it is, probably lack of resistance, which most don’t realize is read by computer. Found that out on a chevy pu going into interlock after using a non factory key. I’m assuming they either send a partial signal to the ECU or are built to such a poor standard that they never heat in the first place. Or once they get the hot exhaust, and quick cold weather cooldowns, they arent built for the constant fluctuations. On three separate occasions I made the mistake of deviating from the specs. One Autobone O2 sens, one ebay “honda” 1-2 shift solenoid, and the mistake of using one size fits all asian vehicle trans fluid. Replaced the o2’s, bought with blown motor, put an 09 accord motor in from jy, switched over to cable throttle body, exhaust laden with coolant, wouldn’t read til real Honda parts. Trans slipping like Tom Cruise on hardwood, right after motor replacement, filled with lucas and generic trans asian flavor, heavy hard shifts between one and two, replaced with ebay, wouldn’t even shift. Put old one back in and 4x4x4 pan drain honda red and she is way less temperamental. Either way, if anyone has any hints or tricks on what to try, lmk. There are 5 or 6 local E’s in my u pull its. I can most def get a computer, key and ig cyl for cheap, swap and see if it makes a difference. I’m assuming they have only blank or unpowered connectors being a non AC, MT AWD, most of the yard E’s are autos, and the stick ones all have AC. With my experience with older VW and Toyota, they usually use the same harness and utilize blanks or looseys, 80’s toyota Hi Lux have the empty fuse box for the diesel connections
 

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I'm not sure if my 2646 code is 100% fixed but I just wanted to suggest everyone watching jimthecarguys video on this issue. He has made a few videos on this issue over the years & the one he posted a year ago is very extensive. I had this issue after coming home from a camping trip & freaked out. I watched his video, removed my vtec, cleaned the screen, and that seems to have fixed it or so I hope. I also found a suggestion to add some lucas oil stabilizer to help clean the oil. I figure if the issue comes back, I will simply replace the whole assembly & change my oil but I'm hoping I don't have to do that.

Anyways, heres the video & I hope it helps someone else:
 

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Update: I have now driven 3 1/2 months and over 3000 miles without the P2646 code coming back. I changed the oil & filter over the weekend. I used Valvoline 5W20 Synthetic Blend and a Wix Oil filter. (This was the only thing that I changed since first getting the P2646 code & going into limp mode way back in June.)

Yesterday I drove it down the Interstate with the cruise control set at 75 MPH for 16 straight miles without any problem!

So, I guess it fixed itself! But, I'm still being cautious!
Update Again: It's now been 5 1/2 months and 5000 miles that I have gone without the P2646 coming back. Hooray!

Yesterday I drove it over 200 miles, and faced my biggest concern: I went over the Skyway Bridge in St. Pete FL twice without incident!

So it fixed itself! First car I ever had that did that! : - )
 

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This is a bit of a nightmare scenario, but just wanted people to know how my p246 problem panned out so they can look out for it, especially for the case that they share all the symptoms besides just the v-tec.

Long story short, it seemed to be related to a slow leak in the headgasket that turned full blown over time. Maybe coolant in the oil was breaking the v-tec somehow. Not really sure how it all connects, but i found others online that had an eerily similar line of events.

my original v-tec post:
Where I ended up:
 

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Oh Crap, P2646 is back.

I bought an 03 element with 265,000 miles on the car. It started to thrown the P2646 code and I tried everything to get rid of it. I took it to my local mechanic and he measure the oil pressure and cylinder pressure, sure enough the engine was weak. I swapped in a 50k engine and all my problems disappeared, well, until this morning.

I took Element into the car wash (it was 35 degrees out) and after I left, it threw the P2646 code. Since I keep a OBD tool in the car, I cleared the code but it came back. I drove it home and swapped in a VTEC solenoid I had laying around. I cleaned the connectors and took it out for a drive. Within 1/4 mile it threw the code again. I had changed the oil ~1000 miles ago with a walmart brand 5-20W synthetic and used a wix filter.

I just ordered a OEM solenoid and oil filter, but I have a feeling I chasing a ghost.

I would like to swap out the connector to the solenoid, if I could find them. Any ideas on other things to check? Any feedback would be appreciated.
 
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